Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

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Beeps and beeps

The washer just beeps and beeps. Occassionally I have to play around with the buttons to get it to work, but it beeps during a cycle, powers on sometimes and starts beeping, beeps in the middle of the night. is this the control board? is this easy to replace if I order one?

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  • mark_mirkovi May 12, 2010

    Thanks Rick. The warranty is not an option as I picked this up at an estate sale for $150. I will try to disassemble and check out the fittings, but I'm not sure if I will go through with the repurchase of the control board. After I posted this, I ended up on the consumer reports website and discovered that this model is quite problematic!! I may cut my losses and just look for another brand. I've used it for 6 months running 4-5 loads per week for a family of 4 and it keeps running... (although the beeping drives me crazy sometimes). I'll let you know how it turns out.

    btw... great detailed description of the work ahead of me. At first, I thought I was reading a text book, but after reading it a second time, I can imagine that the description was a bit challenging to describe.

    thanks again!



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Mark I’m an owner like you and I would try to DIY the fix. The Control board has a warranty period of 5 years. I buy all my parts such as this from e-bay. I have two with the LED FAV6800A consoles that work. You could call Maytag Customer service talk them to sending you a Control Board if you Control board is still under warranty. They did for me.

The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

The Control Board is where I would start. I would inspect and reseat the Console Keypad connector to the Control Board and all the connectors on the Control Board. Follow the Service Manual for Console removal. Remove the 120VACwasher power cord from the service outlet

To ease removing the console from the machine I would remove the three number 15 Torx screws at the top of the console and the 5/16” sheet metal screws holding the back metal access panel. This would allow a bit more ease to unseat the console from the washer top then let it roll forward toward the front of the machine resting on the washer top.

See last Pic

Follow the Service Manual for Console removal. A lot of folks break off part of the retaining arms that slide fit to secure the Console to the washer top. With the sheet metal back off you can see these retaining tabs a bit more clearly and maybe not break them off. Standing at the back of the machine press in the left side of the console facing you (right side of the console if you are facing the front of the machine) to unseat while pushing to your right you may have to tap with the palm of your left hand the left side of the console to unseat from the slide fit retaining tabs. When the Console tabs release from the washer top roll the Console toward the front of the machine resting on the washer top. Sounds worse than it is, it’s just hard for me to describe.
See the broken slide fit tabs at the top of this pic to the left and middle tab. This was a e-bay buy and the owner had no clue how to remove.

beeps and beeps - 316274a.jpg

To unseat/remove the Console ribbon cable from the washer Control board socket; be very careful here so you don’t damage the ribbon cable as you unseat. There is a retaining tab you have to unseat first and slide up the ribbon cable first. Press in the tabs on this ribbon cable retainer with your thumb and index finger release and slide up the cable as I show in the picks. Once the retainer is slide up the cable as shown gently pull the ribbon cable from the socket to unseat. This ribbon cable is single sided the black contacts look to be carbon deposit don’t scrape. But I would look for any corrosion on the contacts and socket that may bridge the contacts.
If the ribbon cable contacts and Control board look good reseat and power up the washer with the Console still resting on the washer top.

If still a no go then I would replace the Control board p/n 25001217 See Sears Parts Direct for look up
Try e-bay I have had good luck with all parts purchased.

Your looking at $180 from most vendors but do what you feel is best for you.



Good luck and post back if you have questions........Rich

Posted on May 09, 2010

  • FAV6800A FAV9800A
    FAV6800A FAV9800A May 13, 2010

    Hey Mark,

    I understand if you were near the 19344 area I would hook up with you with a known good Control Board and give it a try. I get them off e-bay from owners parting them out. I have three working Control Boards plus three working FAV6800A’s in the house. A series 17, 16(my original), and 10. I repair for resale and I know the machine fairly well.

    I just did Outer Tub Bearing replacement and Spinner Assembly bearing replacement on the series 10 machine. If you get a quote for what I did you are looking at $450 to $800 on a 1$K machine.

    Bearings Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring came to around $60 in internet purchases. The quote may not include Spinner Assembly bearing replacement. I really doubt any repair company or tech would do that but I’ll let them chime in for that response.

    The big killer for this machine is the Clutch and Left Hand Lid lock. Both are an easy fix if you have basic mech. skill sets and a desire to extend the service life of these $1K machines. Most owners don't dive in for the repair/maintenance. See the Clutch link post above for the dC/uC error problem which I bet most of the consumer report issues were referenced too.

    Anyway this machine is very easy to work on and repair if you have very basic mech. skills and I can pass on my hands on experience with the machine.... it's a hobby I'm just an owner. My skill sets are as an electronic technician.

    I also post under my new nick name FAV6800AWDIY I did the dh1200s response in error.

    Good luck…………..Rich

  • FAV6800A FAV9800A
    FAV6800A FAV9800A May 13, 2010

    Sorry I diod post under FAV6800AWDIY to many irons in the fire...:)



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