Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This sounds like a plumbing problem. Lets see if we can isolate it. Turn the valves off behind the washer and remove them from the washer. Remove the washer drain hose from the stand pipe. Stuff one of the hoses into the now vacant drain line and turn the water on. Then do the other hose. Any noise? Now reconnect the fill hoses to the washer and reinstall the drain hose to its' place. Turn on the water valves at the wall, set the washer to a cold/cold cycle and start it up. Listen for noise. Now shut the machine off and set it for a hot/cold cycle and turn it on. Listen for noise. If you get no noise now, it's all good. If you're getting noise from just your hot water, your water heater is set too high and you have steam propagating in your plumbing. Your washer water valves (where the hoses connect to your machine) will only do this if you have low water pressure coming from the wall. Still, it'll be a plumbing problem.
Posted on Jul 29, 2007
SOURCE: washing machine wont empty
hi there this is a common fault empty the water into a bucket and remove the water pump to check for blockages, the pump is located at the rerar lefthand side of the w/m.
also check your drain hose where it connects under your sink.
hope this helps
Posted on Dec 11, 2007
you have a broken motor coupling if you want to tackle this your self then reply to this message and i will tell you how if you have to rate me to reply then give me 4boxes im not sure how this site works you can do it if you like to tinker
Posted on Jan 01, 2008
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check the following:
Air-gap device: The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube:There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout:Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During spin cycle only:
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Look at the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Also, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make.
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it.
Pump: If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Main tub seal: The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Outer tub:The steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, develope a hole in some way. If this happens, you may have to replace the outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Feb 07, 2008
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