Hotpoint nvlr333etowb no heat.

Hey GOD IS GOOD !!!!
Electric dryer no start does nothing

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.

CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.

NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.

If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings

Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.

Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs

Greetings,

the first thing you do is remove the top...sometimes there is two screws going up from inside the door....or just pop the top using a putty knife.....there are two screws on each corner of front, remove these and you can set the front aside or disconnect the wiring at the door......next, you will need to remove several screws that hold the cabinet to the frame. this allows you to move the cabinet slightly to get the drum out....next, reach in and remove drive belt..pay attention how it goes before removing...ater the belt is off, you can actually slide the drum out of dryer....located on rear bulkhead is the heater. the best thing to do for you is to replace the complete pan assembly...or use a re-string kit...reverse order in putting back together

Hi,
Check the thermal fuse... it should also read zero ohms...
A dryer may not start for many reasons...
This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start

heatman101

sounds like the belt is loose from a defective idler pulley

The Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

For safety sake there is no safe way to check it if you don't have a meter. Or you novice at fixing things? I'm trying to think safe for you.

Have you checked to make sure that the breaker for it is good? Have you checked to make sure that the wires are tight going to breaker? How old is the house?

I have the same dryer doing the same thing. Open the door and take the two screws out and lift the top. Remove the two screws that hold the front on. Remove the front. On mine both the plastic parts that stay on the front when it is removed are cracked and needing replaced. I found over 20 buttons that the dryer had pulled off clothes stuck in the front door. I'm sure if it will be cost effective to buy both these parts or not.

Very likely the front support bearing is worn through and cracked there are also three drum slides that are positioned on the bearing which very likely worn to nothing and will need to be replaced as well. For model # NVLR333ET0WB replacement part numbers are:
FRONT BEARING: WE3X77
BEARING SLIDES: WE3X87

Good Luck to you.

http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0151200&brandID=1811&modelDesc=DRYER&modelNumber=NVLR333ET0WB&documentID=E2136683&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PV&titleType=DRUM%2C%20BLOWER%20%26%20DRIVE%20ASSEMBLY&titleID=00004&

This is a diagram of your particuliar unit. These Hotpoints are manufactured by GE. The heating element is right behind the drum itself. First is to unplug the unit. Open the door, and look at the top edge of the top of the door. You will see two screws that hold the top down. Remove these screws, then lift the top off. You will have to reach your hand under the drum (and really reach around) and unhook the belt from the idler pully and motor pully. The drum is now free to pull out, directly forward. Your heating elements are now right in front of you. Be sure you check both for drooping, touching each other or the sides, broken wires, etc. Also, these elements are very, VERY expensive. They make a rewire kit that will save you a TON of money. Instructions are included with the kit, Be sure when you put the drum back in, you grease the rear bearing slide and plug.

Heater Assembly (whole unit) Part Number WE11X103 $90.00
Restring Kit: WE11X203 Part Number $35.00

Also, both of these parts are usually found on E-Bay in groves. Do yourself a favor, do not buy them from Sears, they have too high a mark-up, shipping is also way to high, and takes forever to get there. Let me know if you need further help. Thanks and good luck!!!!