Question about Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It seems you have a stuck button. Here is a list of fault codes:
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes
Code Condition Check/Repair F1 Defective touch pad or membrane Replace touch pad or membrane (this problem is usually the touch pad) F1 Watchdog on board Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) F2 Oven too hot Replace relay board (if present) or oven temperature sensor F3 or F4 Open or shorted oven temperature sensor Replace oven temperature sensor F5 Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F6 Missing AC signal Check for proper voltage F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) or attempt to un-stick button F8 Analog/Digital supervisory Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F9 Door latch supervisory Check door lock circuit or replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
SOURCE: Jenn air oven
then likely your electronic clock control board is going bad. After turning the power off, you can also try cleaning the connectors on the clock board and make sure the connectors are tight.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
There are 3 things that can cause this:
1. Bake or Broil element faulty. The oven cycles these on and off to reach and maintain the average setpoint temperature. If the elements heat poperly during the time they are ON, then they are OK (may be able to see them glow).
2. The temperature sensor probe is faulty. This can cause the oven to think it's hotter than it actually is.
3. The above two causes can be easily diagnosed by a technician with an ohm-meter. If they are both OK, then the problem is in the controller itself. If this is the case you may want to have us repair the controller. We see this fault quite often.
Hope this helps you out.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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