We are experienceing excess water usage, the machine is consistant on the washing cycle, it would appear that there is also water being used when on the drying cycle, can this be so.
we have check all sytems in the house for water loss, it comes back to the washing machine every time.
your comments would be greatly appriciated
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The amount of creasing you will get is directly related to the speed you select for the final spin dry cycle and the spin after the first wash cycle which occurs prior to the rinse cycle. The higher the speed and the longer it goes for the more the clothes will crease.
Experiment with different spin speeds on your machine for clothing that is subject to the creasing problem. Also do not put too many items in the machine for a wash as many people do as this will contribute to creasing. Always under load your machine for every wash cycle.
Spin drying is a compromise between creasing and maximum water removal. If you want less creasing you will need to select a more gentle spin dry speed but you will also have the clothes coming out of the machine with a higher water content and they will take a bit longer to dry. The spin time on the program may also be shorter.
In my own machines I use a gentle wash and spin cycle for all clothing that I don't want heavily creased. Running it on a wash cycle with a high and longer spin speed when the machine is spinning the clothes after the initial wash, and then again after the final rinse, will thoroughly crease the clothes every time.
Also bear in mind that different fabrics that are suitable for machine washing will perform differently and some are just too subject to creasing even if you use the most gentle wash, rinse and spin cycle. Hence you can take 2 different 100% cotton fabrics out of a machine and hang them to dry and one will be almost crease free and the other will be thoroughly creased. With these fabrics that are just very subject to wash creasing, it is better to hand wash and rinse them. Then after rinsing drip dry them or put them in the machine and spin them for 1 -2 minutes maximum just to get some of the water out and hang dry them.
The pump is partially blocked or restricted that empties the machine. There is usually an access panel so you can check for debris, buttons, coins, hairgrips etc in the pump. Be ready to catch the water if you pull off a hose.. The alternative is the pump motor is running slowly due to dry bearing or corrosion. Both could prevent the pump from fully emptying the system.
All front loaders use very little water as a opposed to a top loader that uses up to 45 gallons per load a front loader uses about 10,plus a front loader cleans clothes very well with that minimal water usage. The major question is do the clothes seem to come out clean when you have used that washer?
First, did you know that this machine steam dries clothes? The first thing it does on the dry cycle is to wet the clothes which it then heats to dry with condensation. There are better answers regarding this feature on fixya. But assuming that the dry cycle is working as well as it ever does, it appears that your wash cycle is not functioning properly. I would need more info to figure out why it is not filling with water / working at all.
ALL washing machines will build up deposits of gunk in places that you cannot see or readily access. In top loaders, the typical place is underneath the agitator and on the inside of the wash tub (part that holds water). This "gunk" typically consists of body oils, detergent deposits, calcium deposits, hair, dust, dirt, etc. This stuff gets and stays wet. Wet and warm plus "gunk" equals smells. Top loaders can easily solve this problem by removing and cleaning the center column and agitator, then super chlorinating a batch of wash water (no clothes). Fill the washer, putting in three or so cups of bleach, let sit for an hour or so. This should clean the tub. Leaving the top cover open will also help as well as washing smaller batches of clothes more frequently. I have also found that infrequent use of a washer will frequently cause the the residual wash water in the pump(s) to go stagnant. Running a quick small rinse before washing clothes will solve this problem. Front loading washing machines typically have a cleaning cycle and specific instructions as to how, as well as how often, to clean the machine. Have you read the operating manual? I find that leaving the door open and running a fan that blows air inside the machine for an hour or so after washing also helps dry out the machine and keeps mold and bacterial action down by drying out the machine quickly. Keep the door open if at all possible. Removing and drying the detergent dispensers as well as the detergent dispenser opening also helps. Changing detergent may also help. Most front loaders recommend HE detergent. Use the absolute minimum amount of detergent necessary to get your clothes clean which is often a couple of ounces or less. There are also products that claim to clean your machine and eliminate odors, but I have no experience with them. Keep it dry. Keep the door open. Use a fan to blow air around and dry the machine out. Run the cleaning cycle as often as neccesary.
These washers use very little water. (about 2 inches in the bottom of the wash tub) The actual amount used will vary based on the volume of clothes and the type. (snythetic clothes do not absorb much water, but put in a load of cotton towels, for example, and the clothes absorb the water, causing the water level to drop, and the machine will add more water to return the level to the set point, which usually takes a several short fills, over a couple minutes)
To see that the clothes are indeed wet, just pause the machine a few minutes into the cycle. The door will unlock, and you can feel how wet they are. When the cycle completes, these machines spin so much faster (about twice as fast as most top loading machines) that the clothes feel very dry. (thus reduced drying time, and additional energy savings) Because of the lower water usage (about 12 gallons vs. about 45 for a top loader) make sure you only use 1 to 2 (max) tablespoons of HE detergent per cycle, and only 1 teaspoon of fabric softner if you use it. (don't use fabric softner on towels) Using too much addatives will cause odor issues, and possible performance issues.
yes it is the problem replace the water inlet valve
this is done by removing the top you will see the valve that the fill hoses connect to
make a diagram of the connections so that you get it right when you reassemble the unit
The cold water feeds for condenser cooling and for wash cycle drum fill are controlled by separate solenoid valves (manifolded together at the cold water inlet hose union).
When the solenoid on my condenser coolant valve failed a couple of years back, I got symptoms like yours. A new pair of valves isn't expensive to buy and is a trivial job to fit.
If this is what has been happening, suggest you also inspect the insides of your dryer fan and of the pump - neither of mine took really kindly to having been cooked for hours on end.