We are experienceing excess water usage, the machine is consistant on the washing cycle, it would appear that there is also water being used when on the drying cycle, can this be so.
we have check all sytems in the house for water loss, it comes back to the washing machine every time.
your comments would be greatly appriciated
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Open door check wash arm position start washer for a minute
Confirm wash arm has rotated
Check for plugged spray tips at either end of wash arm.
Use small tweezers to remove
Check for rack and dishes interfering with arm rotation
Place cup in upper rack with opening up cycle washer.
Confirm that cup quickly fills with water
Not washing check water level in tub mim 1 1/2 inch
Discontinue use of rinse/dry liquid additive.
Confirm rinse/dry additive not leaking from dispenser into tub
Washer detergent contains sparkle additive and too much sparkle/rinses/dry additive will coat dishes
Try alternative wash detergent that contains minimal rinse/dry additive and use without liquid rinse/dry additive.
It will take several wash cycles after the elimination of rinse/dry to purge the oily film from dishes and machine..
If success "joy" is achieved with no additives then cautiously add back wash detergent with additives. Additives are important to facilitate drying and protecting the glassware china from leaching. The leaching process permanently etches the surface of glassware leaving a cloudy appearance.
The amount of creasing you will get is directly related to the speed you select for the final spin dry cycle and the spin after the first wash cycle which occurs prior to the rinse cycle. The higher the speed and the longer it goes for the more the clothes will crease.
Experiment with different spin speeds on your machine for clothing that is subject to the creasing problem. Also do not put too many items in the machine for a wash as many people do as this will contribute to creasing. Always under load your machine for every wash cycle.
Spin drying is a compromise between creasing and maximum water removal. If you want less creasing you will need to select a more gentle spin dry speed but you will also have the clothes coming out of the machine with a higher water content and they will take a bit longer to dry. The spin time on the program may also be shorter.
In my own machines I use a gentle wash and spin cycle for all clothing that I don't want heavily creased. Running it on a wash cycle with a high and longer spin speed when the machine is spinning the clothes after the initial wash, and then again after the final rinse, will thoroughly crease the clothes every time.
Also bear in mind that different fabrics that are suitable for machine washing will perform differently and some are just too subject to creasing even if you use the most gentle wash, rinse and spin cycle. Hence you can take 2 different 100% cotton fabrics out of a machine and hang them to dry and one will be almost crease free and the other will be thoroughly creased. With these fabrics that are just very subject to wash creasing, it is better to hand wash and rinse them. Then after rinsing drip dry them or put them in the machine and spin them for 1 -2 minutes maximum just to get some of the water out and hang dry them.
The pump is partially blocked or restricted that empties the machine. There is usually an access panel so you can check for debris, buttons, coins, hairgrips etc in the pump. Be ready to catch the water if you pull off a hose.. The alternative is the pump motor is running slowly due to dry bearing or corrosion. Both could prevent the pump from fully emptying the system.
First, did you know that this machine steam dries clothes? The first thing it does on the dry cycle is to wet the clothes which it then heats to dry with condensation. There are better answers regarding this feature on fixya. But assuming that the dry cycle is working as well as it ever does, it appears that your wash cycle is not functioning properly. I would need more info to figure out why it is not filling with water / working at all.
ALL washing machines will build up deposits of gunk in places that you cannot see or readily access. In top loaders, the typical place is underneath the agitator and on the inside of the wash tub (part that holds water). This "gunk" typically consists of body oils, detergent deposits, calcium deposits, hair, dust, dirt, etc. This stuff gets and stays wet. Wet and warm plus "gunk" equals smells. Top loaders can easily solve this problem by removing and cleaning the center column and agitator, then super chlorinating a batch of wash water (no clothes). Fill the washer, putting in three or so cups of bleach, let sit for an hour or so. This should clean the tub. Leaving the top cover open will also help as well as washing smaller batches of clothes more frequently. I have also found that infrequent use of a washer will frequently cause the the residual wash water in the pump(s) to go stagnant. Running a quick small rinse before washing clothes will solve this problem. Front loading washing machines typically have a cleaning cycle and specific instructions as to how, as well as how often, to clean the machine. Have you read the operating manual? I find that leaving the door open and running a fan that blows air inside the machine for an hour or so after washing also helps dry out the machine and keeps mold and bacterial action down by drying out the machine quickly. Keep the door open if at all possible. Removing and drying the detergent dispensers as well as the detergent dispenser opening also helps. Changing detergent may also help. Most front loaders recommend HE detergent. Use the absolute minimum amount of detergent necessary to get your clothes clean which is often a couple of ounces or less. There are also products that claim to clean your machine and eliminate odors, but I have no experience with them. Keep it dry. Keep the door open. Use a fan to blow air around and dry the machine out. Run the cleaning cycle as often as neccesary.
yes it is the problem replace the water inlet valve
this is done by removing the top you will see the valve that the fill hoses connect to
make a diagram of the connections so that you get it right when you reassemble the unit
The cold water feeds for condenser cooling and for wash cycle drum fill are controlled by separate solenoid valves (manifolded together at the cold water inlet hose union).
When the solenoid on my condenser coolant valve failed a couple of years back, I got symptoms like yours. A new pair of valves isn't expensive to buy and is a trivial job to fit.
If this is what has been happening, suggest you also inspect the insides of your dryer fan and of the pump - neither of mine took really kindly to having been cooked for hours on end.