Question about Refrigerators
The symptoms let think that there is a wiring problem, or that the damper fan motor is faulty.
To start ensure that there is no problem with the defrost system. A way of testing the defrost system is by leaving the unit disconnected from power for 24 hours, allowing full defrost.
If the unit is cooling regularly after defrost, that means that defrost system is malfunctioning or that damper fan was blocked by ice.
If that does not work, then the problem can be a faulty damper fan, or a wiring problem.
In fact, if defrost system was not causing the problem, then the fridge will still display the same problem after complete defrost. In that case check damper motor and temperature control.
The fan can be tested by a technician jumping its contacts to energize the motor directly. Wiring is tested checking continuity between different points of the harness.
See here how to locate parts and diagrams: Where do I find parts and diagrams?
To contact an authorized technician or to check warranty status call the manufacturer at the number listed on the owner manual.
Posted on May 10, 2010
Have you checked the damper vent door to make sure its opening fully,its located between the fridge and freezer inside a plastic grille,they can freeze in a position and not throttle in cold air,also is the compressor cycling often,if so check the ptc overload relay on the compressor for being weak,and finally the cold control could be defective and shutting off the unit before its cold
Posted on May 09, 2010
Thanks for using FixYa.
If the blower doesn't come on, the upper part of the fridge will definitely not cool down. There is probably something wrong with the wiring system thus affecting the interior light and blower. The problem is with the wires itself, not the control board.
I hope this helps. Thanks and good day.
Posted on May 08, 2010
Hi, Almost always, your described problem indicates that the fan/blower is
not drawing cold air from the freezer section towards the refrigerator
section. This could be a faulty fan or the air passage is
blocked. In some instances, this cold be the thermostat of the
refrigerator section but offhand this would be least likely.
A possible way of testing is to open the fridge door, locate the door switch and press on it while the door is open. The interior light should turn off. After some time, the fan should kicked in. Should it not, then possibilities are:
Posted on May 08, 2010
Check to see if the thermostat is set properly. If both of these are OK, then check to see if the compressor is running.
See if the compressor motor is running. The compressor is in a case with no visible moving parts. It is usually located at the back of the refrigerator near the bottom. If it’s humming, or making a steady noise, and your refrigerator is still not cooling properly, there could be a problem with one or more various components.
Refrigerators have either a mechanical defrost timer, or an ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control). If your refrigerator has a mechanical timer, set the cold control to the coldest setting and then advance the defrost timer. You can manually advance the timer with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turn clockwise a 1/4 to 3/8’s of a turn. If the compressor starts, replace the defrost timer. For further help, you’ll want to call a professional appliance repair technician.
Sometimes you can hear a click-buzz-click sound coming from the compressor. This is the relay/overload at work. If you hear this, power is getting to the compressor. If you do, something is wrong with either the compressor or the compressor starting components. If you have a newer model with solid-state starting components, you may not hear anything at all. If there is power to the starting components, you may be able to test each part and replace any bad parts.
There is also a 3-in-1 unit that may work on your model which replaces all the components in one unit. If the compressor still won’t start, you have a bad compressor and need to replace it. If it does start, wire the 3-in-1 part in permanently. Make sure the one you buy is rated for the horsepower of your appliance.
If you don’t hear anything, you can take the cover off the side of the compressor and test for voltage at the two leads. If no voltage is present, it’s time to check the cold control. To test if the cold control is bad, you can temporarily jump the two wires at the cold control. If you get power to the compressor after doing so, the cold control needs to be replaced.
Thank you and good luck!
Posted on May 08, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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