Question about Honeywell Electronic Programmable Heat/Cool Thermostat - CT3300A100 Heater

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Replacing thermostat in house. two wires on one terminal and three on the other. I did not read the complete instructions before I disconnected the wires and now I'm not sure which wires goes to what terminal. Can you help me?

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I believe there are letters stamped near the terminals like "R" for RED/"G" for GREEN/"Y" for YELLOW and so on if not the instructions should help you locate the correct wire for the correct terminal

Posted on May 08, 2010


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I have an 12QZ22TA model. It's blowing warm air. How do you put in freon?

Only an EPA certified Technician can add refrigerant. There are other possibilities why it is blowing cold air.
1. Thermostat is bad (disconnect the power, remove the thermostat, place a jumper wire on the two terminals) Unit starts to cool bad thermostat.

2. Capacitor is bad (look for oil or swelling) looks like a can with terminals.

You can test with a meter.
Instructions Things You'll Need
  • Standard multimeter
  • A/C compressor capacitor
    • 1 Turn the A/C unit off along, and unplug it from, the wall to prevent any power surge to the unit when handling the internal devices. Locate the capacitor inside the unit. Capacitors will come in varying shapes; some will look like either a round or oval cylinder with two or three power terminals on the top. Air conditioners can have two capacitors -- one for the condenser fan and one for the compressor -- and are called dual-run or dual-rated capacitors.
    • 2 Place the probes on the terminals for a run capacitor with two terminals. If the capacitor is a dual-run capacitor with three probes, connect one probe to the herm terminal and the other to the common terminal. You can check the capacitance of the fan for a dual-run capacitor by connecting the probes to the fan and common terminal.
    • 3 Turn on the multimeter and read the display screen. You will see two readings, one for the condenser fan and the other for the compressor. Readings will be in micro farads and seen as the letters "mfd" or "uf."
    • 4 Replace a capacitor if the reading is below manufacturer standards. You can find the required micro farad for the capacitor either marked on the device or in the air conditioner's installation manual. Refrain from testing any capacitor if it is leaking, has corroded terminals or the capacitor unit bulges. Replace it immediately.


Aug 01, 2011 | Amana Quiet Zone 12M12TA Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Not Drying No Heat

Test for these first:
First of all, see if you have good voltage supply on the socket on which it is powered too.

(1) All venting is clear of lint, even disconnected from back of dryer.

(2) Breaker in house is not tripped. Cycle the breakers off and back on to make sure.

(3) Test continuity on all thermostats and thermal fuses, all have to measure 0 ohms when wires are disonnected and dryer unplugged. We tested the HiLimit Thermostat, Safety Thermostat, and Thermal fuse mounted to the heating element housing, all should have continuity. Also measure the two thermostats located near the exhaust duct in the rear of the dryer, get 0 ohms as well.

(4) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test continuity from each terminal to the metal cage to make sure none of the elements were grounded. Good if theres no continuity there.

(5) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test resistance between double coil and inner/outer coil. Each should measure around 19 ohms.

(6) Test the dryer temperature switch by removing wire from terminal 15, then took a reading between terminal 15 and terminal 16, should get 0 ohms there.

(7)Test the dryer timer by first setting the timer to 60 minutes. then remove the wire from terminal A. We then took a reading between terminal A and terminal B, and should get 0 ohms. then keet the leads on those two terminals and rotate the timer and had continuity throughout the 70 minute cycle.

Apr 14, 2008 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...

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I purchased a Honeywell RTH2310 Thermostat earlier this year during the summer. It has worked fine up until now. Since it's starting to get cold we've started using the heater, now all of a sudden the...

I am only guessing here but I believe that the thermostat may need to be gone over as far as the wiring from the thermostat to your heater. A thermostat is basically a switch that operates by way of a thermometer. On the wiring it has red and white wires these control the heat section of your furnace/ heater. They also go down the wall to the heater where it should have terminals to a transformer to convert control voltage to 24 volts, red takes 24 volts to the thermostat and white returns back down to a 24 volt relay to turn on the heater. if at any point the red and whit touch any where the thermostat does nothing at all. That means there may be a short some where in the red and white wires. To check this use a volt ohm meter, disconnect the red and white wire from the thermostat and test with one lead on each wire, a dead short reads 0. There may be slight readings thru the relay, so to check only the wires power down the heater disconnect the red and white wires at the heater and again read only the red and white wires with out being attached to anything it should read open. If not replace thermostat wiring. Inspect the wires for cuts where they come thru the wall and go thru the furnace. Most common places where the wire gets cut or pinched is where it is feeding thru the heater case.If all rings out fine it could be a faulty thermostat. This is a lot of instruction but you are looking for a short and this is the easiest way to go about it.

Dec 22, 2010 | Honeywell Focus 6300B 5-2 Days...

1 Answer

No Heat.Which terminals on the cycling thermostat do you need to check to test it.

Check the continuity of the cycling thermostat using an ohmmeter set to X1. Disconnect one wire from the cycling thermostat terminals then connect one test lead of the ohmmeter to each terminal. The reading is zero ohms for an apparently good thermostat; further test is required to check its operation.

Unscrew the cycling thermostat from the heater housing and pull it out of the dryer. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers or similar tool, hold the thermostat over a burner and verify if it clicks when heated. Carefully check the continuity immediately before it clicks again. The ohmmeter reading is infinite (open) and zero ohms when the thermostat cools down and clicks again. A good cycling thermostat cycles off when heated, and on when it cools down.

Every heating circuit component in the heater housing need to be checked when the dryer is not heating. Set the ohmmeter to X1 and measure the resistance between the heating element terminals. The resistance depends on the model of your washer. Replace it when the ohmmeter reading is infinite (open).

The thermal cut-off fails when the cycling thermostat fails to cycle off. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off. Disconnect one wire from its terminals and connect one ohmmeter test lead to each of the terminals. The resistance is zero for a good thermal cut-off.

A blown thermal cut-off is an indication of a failed cycling thermostat. The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when the thermal cut-off is blown. Just unscrew the blown component and screw the new component in place. Specify the brand and model number of your washer for the specific replacement parts.

Warning: Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

Mar 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

No heat, but dryer turns.

There are three common causes of a dryer not heating. First is a busted heating element. Second, the thermal cut-off has blown. Third, the high limit thermostat is not working.

Disconnect power to the machine and remove the screws at the bottom of the lower front access panel (toe panel) holding it in place. Pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You now have access to the heating circuit.

Remove the heater shield by removing its mounting screw and pulling it off the heater housing.

The heater terminal block is located at the left opening of the heater housing. Disconnect the wire from one of the heater terminals and measure the resistance of the heating element using an ohmmeter set to X1. The resistance should read 7.8 -11.8 ohms. Replace the heating element if the resistance reads open.

Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the heating element and remove the screw securing it to the heater housing. Slide the busted heating element out of the housing and install the new heating element. Secure it with the screw and put the terminal block in place. Connect the heater wires and reinstall the heater shield.

Slide the lower front access panel up into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.

Feb 28, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Location fuses Whirpool duet dryer

The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing outlet to the left of the thermistor. For electric dryers, the thermal cut-off and high-limit thermostat are located on the heater housing. For gas dryers, the high-limit thermostat and the flame sensor are located on the burner.

Disconnect the dryer from the power outlet and turn-off the gas supply for gas dryers.

Remove the two screws at the bottom of the toe panel securing it to the cabinet. Pull the toe panel down and off the cabinet.

Check the continuity of the thermal fuse with an ohmmeter set to X1. The ohmmeter should read zero ohms. Replace both the thermal fuse (part #3392519) and the thermistor (part #8577274) if the resistance reads open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the replacement part.

Do the same with the thermal cut-off. Replace both the thermal cut-off (part #279973) and the high-limit thermostat (part #3391914) if the resistance reads open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the replacement part.

The high-limit thermostat is located next to the heater terminal block and next to it is the thermal cut-off.

Slide the toe panel in place up and into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.

Note: Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the component before performing the continuity test.

Feb 22, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore side-by-side model number 106.53669300 with an automatic ice maker. The problem is the ice maker is not working. I have 120 volts at the receptacle, but only 34 volts at the harness for...

HI. These symptoms seem to point to a failed thermostat. During this type of failure, the ice maker will not be able to regulate the freezing of the ice. It may not be able to preform a complete cycle, as well. The successful jumping indicates that the module is functional, but the regulatory device is not. This can also be a starter switch issue, also. This will be the On/Off switch or arm lever. To isolate the issue, simply test the thermostat. Use the procedure below to achieve this.

The thermostat is located near the bottom of the support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove the thermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainer clips, or by removing the retaining screws.

You will need to test the thermostat for continuity using a multimeter set to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it has come up to room temperature.(Usually after about 10 minutes after you have removed it from the freezer).

If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity. Chill the thermostat in the freezer
for about twenty minutes and retest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).

If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combination's 1 & 2, 1 & 3 and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combination's should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a reading of zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combination's should now yield a zero reading.

If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced. If the thermostat passes the test, move on to the on/off switch arm and circuit inspection procedure.

Let's start by inspecting the arm. The arm extends away from the ice maker above the ice cube bin. During each ice making procedure, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops. The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support. If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Make sure that the arm is securely in place. I would also advise to inspect the clearance of the arm. make sure that nothing is blocking the arms swing pattern. If this arm is in the on position, and dose not make ice, this can indicate that the entire module is suspect. This will require total replacement of the ice maker unit.

Next, will will move to the final inspection sector. This will be the actual on/off switch circuit. In order to test the on/off switch circuit, you will need to remove the entire ice maker unit. The shutoff switch is located near the shutoff arm. Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by three wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch a probe to the side terminal. Touch the other probe to one of the two other terminals. The reading should be either infinity or zero. With the probes still in place, depress the switch. You should now get the opposite reading. Keep the first probe on the side terminal and move the other probe to the second terminal. The test results should be the opposite of the first terminal. If you had a reading of zero on the first terminal, when the switch was depressed, you should get a reading of infinity on this terminal. If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.

Jan 11, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Change thermostat on 1998 toyota camry

1. Write down your radio code if it has some anti-theft device.
2. Allow the engine to cool down for about 3-hours before the start of this operation.
3. Open the hood, and disconnect the battery negative terminal. Tuck the negative terminal aside so it won't flip back.
4. Locate the radiator drain-plug (plastic wing-nut) on the lower back side of the radiator, and turn it backward to remove it.
5. Place a container under the radiator to catch the anti-freeze coolant.
6. Remove the radiator cap.
7. Once the coolant is drained, trace the upper radiator hose to where it ends on the engine(thermostat housing), and remove the hose with a medium size plier.
8. Loosen the three bolts holding the thermostat housing. Gently take out the housing.
9. Notice the position the thermostat was previously installed.
10. Replace the old thermostat, and the o-ring around it. Clean its mounting area. Notice that the o-ring fits around the thermostat.
11. Replace the thermostat housing and torque the three bolts to 78-inch pounds. Replace the upper hose.
12. Replace the radiator drain-plug.
13. Re-use the antifreeze coolant and be careful no dirt goes in with the coolant into the radiator.
14. Return the radiator cap.
15. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
16. Start the car and check for leak.

Important: Anti-freeze coolant harmful to the environment. Return unwanted anti-freeze coolant to collection areas.

Dec 17, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Chronotherm III Thermostat Completely Blank Screen, No Heat

One of two things either the disply has gone out which is likely as it is a common failure for that thermostat or your heating unit is not sending control power. the older chronotherms were system (24volt ac) powered the new hardware/box store units are battery powered. Either way display should not be blank with fresh batteries. to get heat on remove the thermostat jumper or twist together the wire from the R terminal with the wire from the W terminal. note the color of each wire for later reference, heat up house disconnect wires from each other and go purchase a new thermostat

Dec 17, 2008 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

1 Answer

Replacing a thermostat

Typically if you are replacing a heat only thermostat you will have two or three wires. On the old thermostat these wires will be attached to terminals marked "R", "W" and maybe "G". Document what color wires goes to which terminal and transpose these to the new thermostat. If you have a heat and cool thermostat, you will have two or three more wires and connected to terminals labeled "C", "B" and "Y". Again, transpose these wires to the new thermostat as best you can.

Feb 12, 2008 | Honeywell CT87B ROUND HEATING&COOLING...

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