Question about Dryers
Model MDG9700AWW The drum is cracked at the front. Seems like a design flaw. Do you know if there is any extended warranty on this part since it seems like it should be one of the longer warranties?
If not is the assy. drum wrapper be all I need to purchase?
Also have they fixed this flaw so I won't be replacing it in another year?
Tried JB Weld didnt work. Replaced the drum myself $238 bucks. Replaced the belt while I had the dryer apart...$32 bucks. I'm not appliance expert but this isnt rocket science either....apparently saved $600 bucks...those roller wheels (4 of em) are $72 dollars each...hopefully yours arent damaged or you might as well get a new dryer.
Posted on Jan 04, 2011
Do you still have it warrenttied
Posted on Mar 27, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Not sure what the cost of a new drum is, but yesterday I fixed one. I took a chance and bought one of these dryers with a crack for $70 on Craig's list. Not an easy job, but if your handy, know what your doing, and have the tools you can get the job done in about 3 hrs. Here's how:
Disconnect the dryer and move it to a space where you have plenty of room to work. Remove the drum belt from the motor, noting how the belt goes through the belt tentioner and motor. The drum comes out the front, once the front is removed. Be gentle and you'll have the drum out in less than 30 minutes. Be very careful with all wiring and connectors. Gently remove the felt edging at least 8 to 12 inches away from the crack. It is glued to the drum. Use some duct tape from the opposite side of the drum to hold it way from the crack. Next position the crack together as closely as you can, and hold it together with a set of vice-grips on the outermost edge. Using an ACETYLENE torch (not normal propane) and brass brazing rod with flux start near the inside/center of the drum and work your way out toward the edge. Take your time, use lots of heat, and make sure the brazing sticks. I rested my drum on a metal trash barrel so it was up in the air and I could braze it comfortably. Next find a piece of stainless steel. I used a hose clamp. Verify it's truly stainless by seeing if it sticks to a magnet. A stainless should just barely attach. Very few hose clams are truly stainless. You can also use a piece of old kitchen sink, or cut a piece off a stainless dog bowl, moulding, etc. I cut off the end on the hose clamp, and positioned the strap of the clamp on the outside of the drum, perpendicular to the crack about 1 inch in from the edge. I used a clamp to hold it in place. I then brazed each end of the hose clamp. Then remove the c-clamp, and do along the hose clamp to add strength to the area so it does not open up again. After your done, brazing, go back and take some time to really clean up the outside of the drum with a grinder. The drum rotates on rubber wheels which run along the outside of the drum. If you did this right the drum wheels will NOT pass over the hose clamp, but only pass over a small amount of brazing over the actual crack. This takes some skill to accomplish, but the brass brazing will never leave rust marks on the clothes. When I ran the dryer empty you could mildly hear a bump as the wheels passed over the brazing. However with a full load you don't even hear it at all. Got home with the dryer at 4:45, and had it done by 7:45. It may break again in 6 months some where else...but for now it works like a charm.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
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