How much pressure can give the condenser tubing for cleaning

Yes, well somewhat normal. The refrigerant leaves the compressor at high temperature and flows through the condenser coil where it cools about 20 degrees warmer than the outside air flowing through the condenser. Many small air conditioner units use a small copper tube (capillary tube) of a specific diameter and length for that system to cause a decrease in refrigerant pressure between the condenser and the evaporator. The refrigerant leaves the compressor as a gas at high pressure, cools in the condenser and changes into a liquid. The liquid flows through the cap tube and cools more as the pressure decreases and gets closer to the evaporator. The refrigerant boils and evaporates under the low pressure of the evaporator and turns back into a gas. That gas is pulled back to the compressor.
If the condenser is not cooling the refrigerant enough, the tube can become extra hot. Efficiency is reduced. Actual temperatures throughout the system depend on the type refrigerant used, suction and discharge pressure at the compressor, outside and inside temperature. Tables, charts and graphs for various pressure-temperature relationships can be found in refrigeration books and chemical web sites.

Look on the circuit board, is ther a flashing diagnostic code?

tell me this code sequence.
Typically an induced draft motor will be the first thing to run, is this running? is the pressure switch for the induced draft operating, it its tubing and the tubings ports clear?
is the condensate line clear?

is the flame sensor clean? use 0000 steel wool to wipe it off.



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Have you changed the inside filter or cleaned the inside coil?

Also if you have a amp meter check the amps the compressor is pulling compare it to the nameplate rating.If the amps are high you may have a bad compressor.

Im assuming your running r22.You may also have a bad capillary tube or expansion valve depending on what this unit is using.

Hello, it sounds like the pressure switch is not closing on your furnace and remaining open, reasons for this could be a blocked flue pipe, the tubing going from the inducer motor to pressure switch could be blocked, loose, or have condensation in it, or the switch itself is bad. U can check the tubing by taking it off blowing some air through it and making sure no condensation is in the tubing, then reinstall it. If everything checks out good then the pressure switch is bad and must be replaced.

It is located inside the condensor tube running to the evaporator.

Here are the removal/installation instructions as per alldata:

TOOLS REQUIRED

J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
J 26549-E Orifice Tube Remover

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
-Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
-Remove the air cleaner assembly.
-Remove the vacuum brake booster.
-Remove the condenser tube.
-Use J 26549-E in order to remove the expansion orifice tube. IMPORTANT: DO NOT use any solvents or chemicals to clean the porous plastic inlet filter of the expansion orifice tube.
-Inspect the expansion orifice tube for the following conditions and clean or replace with a new tube as indicated:
-Broken plastic frame (1); replace the tube.
Inlet filter (3) damaged or plugged with fine gritty material; replace the tube.
Inlet filter (3) coated with metal chips, flakes, or slivers; remove the coating with low pressure shop air ONLY and reuse if the filter is cleaned satisfactorily. Do NOT reuse the O-ring seals (2).

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: Lubricate the new O-ring seals (2) with mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
If you reuse the orifice tube, install new O-ring seals (2).
Carefully grasp the edge of the expansion orifice tube (1) without touching the inlet filter (3) and insert the expansion tube into the condenser tube until fully seated.
-Install the condenser tube.
-Install the vacuum brake booster.
-Install the air cleaner assembly.
-Evacuate and recharge the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
-Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A.

not exactly sure but using info below you can find it.

Remember the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.

There will be about a 1" nut on the low pressure line between the firewall and the compressor. Remove nut and on the male side use a pair of kneedle nose pliers and remove orifice tube. Note orientation of tube.

Replace tube, reassemble, evacuate air from system, recharge with freon.

Manufacturers suggest that it takes approximately 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize in both your freezer and fresh food compartments after being turned off for an extended period of time. Adjust temperature settings to the "half-way" mark for both freezer and fresh food compartments. Allow a period overnight and recheck the temperatures. Also check the condenser coil (usually located underneath the appliance). If clogged with dirt/lint, it needs to be cleaned (carefully) with a condenser coil brush (can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe's). Prior to cleaning condenser coil, turn off appliance (there is a condenser fan motor and blade operating while on). Be careful not to damage copper tubing (refrigerant in tubing)!

I have video with repair of restricted beer cooler. I hope that gives you idea. It could be pretty bad when capillary tube gets clogged. There might be more problems that lead to restriction.

it's in the high pressure liquid line.

A/C Evaporator Core Orifice The A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990) should be replaced whenever the A/C compressor (19703) is replaced for lack of performance (internal damage). The A/C evaporator core orifice, located in the condenser to evaporator tube (19835), cannot be serviced in detail as a component of the line. If replacement is necessary, follow the procedure outlined for Liquid Line Removal and Installation. An orifice tube replacement service kit may be used as an optional service procedure. Refer to Section 12-00 for information regarding the use of an A/C Evaporator Core Orifice Replacement Kit E5VY-19D695-A.
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A/C Evaporator Core Orifice Replacement Kit Installation

1. Discharge A/C refrigerant system. Refer to System Discharging and Recovery as outlined.
   

1. Remove condenser to evaporator tube (19835) from vehicle.
   

1. Locate A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990) by three indentations or a circular recess in metal portion of the condenser to evaporator tube.
   
   
   A/C Evaporator Core Orifice Location
   

1. Note angular position of ends of condenser to evaporator tube so that it can be reassembled in correct position.
   

1. Cut a 63.5 mm (2.5 inch) section from condenser to evaporator tube at A/C evaporator core orifice location. Do not cut closer than 25.4 mm (1 inch) from start of a bend in tube.
   
   
   A/C Evaporator Core Orifice Section Removed From the Liquid Line
   

1. Remove contaminants from the two pieces of the condenser to evaporator tube.
   

1. NOTE: The inlet half of the condenser to evaporator tube will be positioned against the A/C evaporator core orifice tabs when correctly assembled.
   
   Lubricate fitting with clean refrigerant oil and assemble orifice tube kit (with A/C evaporator core orifice installed) to condenser to evaporator tube. Make sure flow direction arrow is pointing toward evaporator end of the condenser to evaporator tube, and taper of each compressor ring is toward compression nut.
   
   
   A/C Evaporator Core Orifice Kit Disassembled Components
   

If the exhaust comes off the top of the furnace, you will need to make sure the condensation will drain all the way back to the condensate outlet found at the base of the inducer blower. If you are having to remove the tube from the pressure switch, there must be a blockage from the inducer down to where ever it drains to. Check to see if all tubes are free of blockages and if there is a condensate trap, clean it out. If the pressure tube you mentioned is facing up toward the blower allowing water to flow into it, reposition it so water will not enter the tube.