Question about Honda Karcher G2400HH-R Pressure Washer
I'm trying to repair a pump from a troy-built, 2008 model 2.2 gpm washer. Unit worked fine last summer. This past week no flow from the discharge. Nada. Zip. One thread suggested the unloader was stuck. The pump's manual suggested pump had no prime. I disassembled poppet valves and they seemed OK. Ditto the unloader and it was kind of stiff, though no corrosion. I loosened it a bit so the plunger moved a little easier and put the pump back on. Same issue. Nothing comes out of the discharge side. This unit has been used maybe 3 times I didn't see a hint of corrosion or scale in the poppets or unloader,, it's pristine. Also noticed I cannot push air into input freely. Normally, if you connect hose shouldn't the hose pressure force water out the discharge port (with wand hose disconnected) even with the engine off ? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is a symptom caused by a sticking Unloader valve. The Unloader valve is inside the pump outlet body under the large black knob.
Example picture : http://www.msservice.net/product_spotlight.html
Before doing any dis-assembly try this procedure first. This may sound weird but it often works. We do this with a short piece of garden hose,,,,, Add 3 to 4 ounces of engine oil into the water inlet by pouring the oil into and old short / cut off garden hose with the end elevated but connected to the pump inlet.
Slowly pull the engine starter cord so as to pump the added oil into the pump and let it sit over night. Just keep pulling the starter cord "IGNITION OFF" until you note oil exiting the high the high pressure hose connection.
Then connect everything like you normally would the next day.
MAKE sure to purge the water supply hose of air at the pump connection before starting the engine.
Start the engine. NOTING that your going to shoot out the oil you put in the day before..... Pull the wand trigger every 3 to 4 seconds so you cause the Unloader / thermal relief valve to stroke within the pump body. Don't give up... you have to do this for an extended period of time so that you have HIGH pressure each time you pull the wand trigger.
With the engine still running.... let it run trigger off for about 1 minute at mid engine speed. Pull the trigger again and see if you have high pressure. Do another long pause... then use as you normally would.
IF the above lubrication process does not work....
The Unloader / thermal relief valve needs to be dis-assembled so that the springs and seals can be lubricated with Lubriplate #105 white grease. Make sure to also lubricate the casing of the pump body before putting everything back into the pump body.
Here is the white grease tube your looking for at any automotive parts supply.
This should get you going again. Just note that Unloader valves will notoriously stick after end of season storage upon the next use. It is important after an extended non-use period that the wand trigger is cycled every 3 - 4 seconds to exercise the Unloader valve springs and seals in the pump body. You only need to do this for about 45 seconds.
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Posted on Jan 18, 2011
I had a similar problem. Turns out I had left the hose disconnected and some sort of wasp built a paper type nest inside the washer tube that the hose connects to. I had to take the pump off and take apart and then cleaned it out with a screw driver. Not too easy to do but finally got it clean. Same thing happened with the hose.
So, if you haven't used it for awhile, check that there is no blockage in the hose or pump tubes. You might be able to blow it out with an air compressor.
Posted on Feb 11, 2011
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