Question about GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

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Odd/puzzling problem with GE Arctica PSC23NSTE Opened refrigerator door and upper light was out, housing and shroud were very hot (this has happen twice in the past 3 months)...I checked the bulb for continuity and found it to be good, then I tested for voltage at the at the bulb socket (zero volts). I waited 30 minutes for the bulb socket and surrounding area to cool off, then tested for voltage (119 volts). A Fluke T5-600 meter was used for testing. Any ideas?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 93 Answers

SOURCE: GE PSC23SGRC SS refrigerator (Arctica) Profile

Main board is out. Replace. Located on rear of unit

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

Maytag317
  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: Light went out in refrigerator. Changed bulb, not the problem.

Hi, The bulb might need a quarter more turn. Sometimes the bulb feels tight but needs little more. Use a glove or towel and grasap the bulb with the palm of your hand try turning it.
Please let me know if this helps.

Vic

Posted on May 27, 2009

Nicesuit
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: The frezer not cool enoug

you may not have enough air circulation at the rear of the machine when you moved it. if the machine can not loose heat through the radiator at the back it looses its cooling capacity. move it back to where it was?

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

adnanbhatti
  • 1188 Answers

SOURCE: GE GTS20ICNCC Refrigerator light bulb burns out quickly

Use the correct wattage bulbs. If they fail often then you may need to get it checked by an electrician.
Filament bulbs easily burn out. What you can do is to buy cheap bulbs and replace as soon as they burn. This is the problem which is why tube lights and LEDs were invented!

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

bruce505
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: clicking sound - not cooling

The problem is most likely the condenser fan motor at the back-side/bottom/right of the unit. If this fan is not turning, unplug the connector to this fan (inside the protective cover on the wires near the fan)... if the clicking stops, then this fan needs to be replaced.

What is happening is that this fan has failed but continues to draw a heavy load from the circuit board... It draws enough power from the circuit board to drop the voltage on the circuit board to 5-6 volts and the relays on the board open up and disconnect the power to the fan. The the voltage jumps back up to 12-13 volts and the relays turn back on causing the voltage to drop again and the relays to open.... ON....OFF...ON...OFF..... thus the clicking!

The exact part number for this fan may vary depending on the model and serial number of your unit... My model is GBS22K-BRBBB and the fan part is WR84X10055 and should cost $60-$70 though I have seen it being sold for as much as$130.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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