After using the my 6180-20 saw for about 10 cuts on 2" x 2" - 1/4" steel tube, i noticed that the motor housing was running hot. Got half way through my next cut and it tripped the breaker. I tried 2 more times and the same happenned. Its a 20 amp breaker and have not had this problem in the past. It is a fairly new saw. Could it be an overheating problem?
If its new, like in the last year or so send it back to milwaukee. they have a five year warranty, so dont dissasemble it, or you will VOID your warranty. I have been selling and servicing milwaukee tools for over 20 years. when your cutting heavy wall tubing the size you are its important to let it cool for a while between cutts and seriously,,, only use the thin 1/8" Milwaukee blades and let them do the cutting with just enough pressure on the tool to prevent glazing on the surface of the blade. you will find your cutting goes a lot easier. blade life is not as long, but it will be much easier on you and the tool. the 3/32 bade they come with is awesome if your doing smaller/thinner material, but use the thinner on thicker rule.
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Re: Tripping 20 amp breaker
When things start overheating componants start to break down. sounds like you need to check the armature and field for burnt areas. at least change the brushes. were you bearing down hard? sounds like the motor may not be enough to cut quickly, maybe more slowly. hope this helps
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I would return it to the store, or have it fixed under warranty. You obviously have a defective saw. Dewalt is a reputable company, and they make high quality tools, but defects do op up once in a while from all manufacturers.
It sounds like your saw has a defective heat sensor, and it is sensing the temperature incorrectly and shutting the saw off to protect it.
To start with what size circut are you trying to run the saw on? What ever the amperage is on the saw will draw almost 3 Xs the amperage rating of the saw on start up. If the circut is a 20 amp the breaker should hold long enough to start the saw. Also the saw should be the only thing running on the circut at the time. A 1-1/2 hp motor is a good size one aproximately 15.2 amps If you circut breaker is twenty amps and you still pop the breaker you may want to convert the motor to run on 220 volts as that will drop the load to approx. 7.6 amps Youcan run the saw on a 20 amp. 220 volt circut with no problem unless there is a problem with the motor. If the outlet is the only outlet on the circut it is an easy change to convert the circut.
Are you operating the saw on a 10 amp circuit or with a long extension cord? Table saws need at least a 15 amp circuit and should not be used with an extension cord. If absolutely necessary the extension cord should be no less than 12 guage. Tabel saws will run OK on a 10 amp circuit but as soon as you apply a load (try to cut wood) the power requirements go up to keep the saw turning. If you can, plug it into another outlet on a higher capacity circuit breaker or at least closer to the breaker box. If it still pops the breaker you may have bearing problems in the motor that are creating too much friction. This would make the motor work harder to turn so it would draw excessive power and trip the breaker.
If it trips the breaker as soon as you hit the switch, check the power circuit. Check the power cord for frays or cuts, especially where the cord goes into the saw. Remove/split the handle and check the wires into and out of the switch and to the brushes and field. Lood for burned or melted wires or case parts. Milwaukee is notorious for running lots of small wires in very tight places. Make sure none of them got pinched when the tool was assembled. Watch for this also when you reassemble the saw. Check the brushes, if they're worn or broke they can cause a short on the armature. If these all check out you need to have the armature checked on a growler for shorts.
If the saw runs for a few seconds then trips the breaker I'd check for gear and bearing problems. Cehck for free, smooth movement of the bearings on the armature and blade drive assembly. The blade should turn freely by hand. Feel for undue resistance or a gritty feel in the bearings and gears. If necessary replace any offending parts.
Sounds like you may have overheated the motor.
I'm surprised the overload on the motor didn't
trip first. With this overheating, the windings in the
motor have basically shorted out to ground. This is
why your breaker is tripping. Rewinding the motor
is no longer the option these days. You can try
going online to www.searspartsdirect.com
Adam, in order to help you, you must provide me with more info. What size breaker is tripping. What does the maufactor's manual reads about what size circuit it must be plugged into. If your house is a little old you probably have a 10 amp breaker that is tripping. If so than the manufaturer states theat it is recomamded to place it onto a 20 amp breaker. Only switch out the 10 map breaker to a 20 amp breaker if your the wire from the breaker is a 12 gauge wire.
Do not put a 20 amp breaker onto a 14 guage wire because it will most likely melt the insulation due to heat whichwill expose the bare copper wire which could lead to burning your house down.
The first thing that I would check is the wiring to the saw. My guess is that the wire to the saw or the cord is not heavy enough.
As saw like that can pull a lot of amps. Probably 15 or more when working hard. What happens is that when the amp draw goes up and the cord is too light, the voltage drops which increases the amps. and starts a vicious cycle...
The one thing that finally gives is the internal overload in your motor.
Try running heavier wire or a heavier extension cord if you are using one.
#12 wire or a 12 wire cord would be minimum, if running over say 50 feet then you should be looking at #10 wire.
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!
More than likely motor but try this , if you have a wrap around amp probe or can borrow one or purchase a cheap one place the amp probe around the positive wire connected to panel breaker ,with meter on proper scale ,start saw and read probe current , if cap bad current will be high and stay until breaker trips , if motor will start high on start ,then low then ,very high and breaker will trip , be careful in panel working around live circuits , the reason it reads this way is because as the motor warms the laminates it the armature separate and cause the increase in current to spike ,if cap bad never gets to speed and has high current draw constantly , to verify cap(1) remove from circuit (2)place a screw driver across terminals to release any charge (3), then take ohm meter on ohms place meter leads on terminals one on each terminal at same time meter will rise and fall back(4) reverse leads and should rise and fall as before if it does this it is more than likely good a lot of electrical reasons for this but this will tell you what you wanted to know , good luck