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Dryer runs but the heater element gets hot then shuts off. After a few minutes it will heat up again. Is the problem more likely: the hi-limit thermostat or the multi-temp thermostat or the thermal cut-off thank you

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The heating element is SUPPOSED to cycle on and off. The element has a regulating thermostats to ensure it does not get too hot. If the element were to stay on continuously, the dryer would overheat to the point of the element eventually failing, or create a fire hazard. It will cycle on and off dependent upon the internal temperature the moisture level in your clothing (if you are using the Auto-Dry feature).

If your dryer IS still heating, but you are experiencing longer dry times, you may want to check the dryer interior cabinet and/or the entire exhaust duct run to ensure you don't have any clogs or choke points. The following link explains many of the problems that can cause poor drying efficiency:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3578821-dryer_takes_too_long_to_dry

Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. A dryer in a clogged state or having improper air flow will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to actually overheat. Eventually, this can lead to component failures and is the source of fire hazards.

If you have any questions, please post back an let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on May 07, 2010

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My Kenmore Elite HE4 dryer keeps shutting off after a few minutes.


are u saying it shuts down or just stops heating? if it shuts down u may have bad motor windings and or brushes and motor is burning out if its stops heating that is usually due to bad moister sensor, cycling thermostat ( which would not usually shut appliance off though), short in heating element, defective hi limit thermostat etc and of course u already said u cleaned lint and ducts? including the blower? if its blocked with lint u have a shut off issue

Jul 09, 2015 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a frigidaire gallery series dryer that will run on low heat setting just fine but when I set it on medium or higher it shuts off after a minute or so. ..I replaced the thermistor but it didn't help....


DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Nov 04, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

Having heating problem with Roper REX4634JQ0 dryer?


probably have a weak hi-limit thermostat on the element housing or cycling thermostat on the blower housing

Apr 26, 2012 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool LEC6646aq2. Noticed a burning smell inside drum.The dryer baffle inside the drum was completely melted. The timer was stuck on 20 minutes and the heating element was full on . The...


it sounds like one of the coils on the heating element could be touching metal and grounding out constantly running until you shut it down manually,when the heater is on the timer doesn't move until the heat shuts off,then the timer advances,when the machine calls for heat again the timer stops and the heat comes back on,it does this until the timer reaches zero but in your case the heater isn't shutting down and is keeping the timer from advancing.the filter is on the top of your dryer so unplug it,pull it out remove the ventline from the back of the dryer and remove the back panel,you'll see the heating element on the right side,also with a meter check the thermostats on the heater box,when checking any part at least one wire has to be diconnected or you won't get a correct reading,check for continuity on all the parts on the heater box,when the dryer is running correctly say you have a blocked vent line,when the dryer starts running hotter than normal the thermal fuse or the high limit thermostat will pop,the thermal fuse is the white piece to the right of the lint filter duct and the hgh limit is the top thermostat on the heater box,but with the element grounding out nothing will shut it down until you manually cut the power by moving the timer to off,if it melted the baffle you could have damaged other parts like the motor,check the rear end of the drum and see if there's like yellow on it or lint stuck to it where it touches the back wall,if there is then the oil from the motor sprayed out and the motor could last for a week or 5 years but the overheating most likely damaged it,if the dryer is old you might want to think of buying a new dryer instead of repairing it and then you have problems with something else like the motor or changing out thermostats in a month or two but you have to make that call,good luck and let me know what you find

Oct 30, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Heating element is getting too hot and shutting down dryer


Disassemble the dryer again and check the blower wheel on the motor shaft. It may be slipping.
Also,remove the rear exhaust vent and run a load. The blockage could be in the outside exhaust.

May 25, 2010 | Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Stopped heating


What I do is see if their could be an obvious reason for the dryer to quit heating. I determine how old the dryer is and ask if the heating element has been replaced and when, those sorts of questions then that give me an idea. I make it a point to clean and oil any dryer I work o. They all are going to have lint buildup in them and this lint is the main cause of heat failure. A small piece of lint gets on the heating element and causes a hot spot. The hot spot burns through interrupting the circuit93b855d.jpg
I unplug the machine and remove the rear cover. 1c9e8bc.jpg I 1. Hi Limit (small limit upper right hand side of this pic) the most frequent problem if dryer RUNS but no heat AND you have
checked the element and found it to be good. 2. Heater assembly. 7. Control thermostat(s). 5. Fuse(350F), if blown(open) the dryer will NOT run. 4. Heater element
(if you do not have a meter remove and inspect this heater coil for breaks). I remove the lint chute(that the thing the filter lives in) and I wash that out because it gets clogged over time. I check the heater and limits for continuity. Then I remove the front panel and drum. Completely vacuum out the dryer and oil the rollers. d4f393f.jpg
If this is a gas dryer you want to see if power is going to the gas assembly
If this fuseeda36f9.jpg is blown on a gas dryer the dryer will run but the heat will not, If the dryer heats a little but quits then these coils are getting hot and intermittent94fb1fe.jpgif your igniter is blown a54d451.jpgor your sensor is open5650218.jpgthere won't be no heat.

Apr 09, 2010 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer shuts off before cycle ends


You really need a multimeter to troubleshoot the problem. The melted cord indicates a bad connection. The receptacle and plug connection could be the problem.

Aug 03, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag Dryer PYE2200AYW runs for a few minutes and shuts off. Have replaced heating element (as it was not heating), fuse and coincidentally power cord b/c it had melted a little due to no strain relief....


You need to check the high limit thermostat. If the heating element and thermal fuse are good, that would be the next thing that I would look at. It is attached to the ductwork with two screws and is usually a small, round, black device mounted on a flat metal base. I am attaching a photo of a thermal fuse and high limit thermostat to help you identify the component. Hope this helped and best wishes.

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Aug 02, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer shuts off after a few minutes


THE KENMORE DRYER I HAVE... IF REN IN THE COTTON CYCLE IT WILL RUN FOR 50 MINUTES AND SHUT OFF. ITS BOLWING HOT AIR AND THE OTHER CYCLES SEEM TO WORK FINE WITH OUT SHUTING DOWN SO ID APPRECIATE A TIP ON WHAT THIS PROBLEM COULD BE

May 17, 2008 | Dryers

4 Answers

Inglis Dryer


You really need a volt / ohm meter to check for Continuity & Volts

Its well worth the investment... $15.00 bucks give or take a few

I would check to see if you have 220v to back of dryer where the cord mounts to dryer,

If dryer is getting only 1 leg 110 volts instead of the 220 will it not heat.

Check themostates & heater for Continuity... Most models, Now have a.. Hi-limit fuses that need to be checked for Continuity

 

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Oct 13, 2007 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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