The terminal block that the power cord plugs into sparks

F68 occurs on these ranges when the power lines are not hooked up properly. Usually its a miswired cord or outlet. If you are using a 3 prong range cord, you need to check with a meter that you are getting 240 volts between the 2 outer terminals of the plug, and 120 volts between either of the outer terminals to the center plug. If you are using a 4 prong cord, the test is the same except you should also get 120 volts between either of the outer terminals and the flat center plug and the round center plug. Flat center is NEUTRAL, round center is GROUND. On a 3 prong plug, center terminal acts as NEUTRAL & GROUND.

If all of this checks ok, then its time to pull the cover off the back of the range where the cord goes in and make sure the wires are connected properly there. 3 wire cord should have the 2 outer wires going to the outer terminals on the terminal block and the center going to the center terminal. 4 wire cord should have black and red wires going to the outer terminal posts, the white goes to the middle post and the green goes to the frame.

If all of this checks OK then you need to have a COMPETENT electrician go over every part of this circuit, from the outlet to the breaker box, and make sure everything is connected properly and TIGHT. A loose NEUTRAL connection can cause all kinds of erratic behavior with electronic control ranges.

The fact that you've gone through 3 of these ranges should tell you it's not the range. Most likely it's something the electrician has overlooked. I've run service calls behind electricians that have bragged about their 30 years of experience, etc and think they know what they are doing but still don't understand how to diagnose problems like loose neutral connections.

Good luck. Reply back when you find out what it was!

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeffrey_634abadf963e31e5

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

The clock display works on 120 volts but the burners and oven require 240 volts. I would check the breaker or the receptacle to see if they're bad.They may be supplying only 120 volts. One more less common problem could be the terminal block on the range where the power comes in. Very rarely they will melt. BE SURE TO UNPLUG THE RANGE if you have to check the terminal block. Hope this helps.

If Your oven wont turn on, then You need to be sure that the problem is power related. Try to test Your device for power, then You replace the power switch of the oven. To test the power of the device. Be absolutely certain the power is turned off before you begin. To do this, check the clock, timer and oven light, and examine the heating elements on all settings. If any of these components operate, you have power. If a wiring problem has short-circuited one leg of the circuit you may have 110 volts but not 220. This means the oven light, clock, and some heating elements may operate on low, but not on high. It also means you have power and could get a jolt. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution! Once you are confident the oven has no power it is time to establish if the problem is the house wiring or the oven itself. Check the housebreaker or fuse and then test for power where it enters the oven. If there is a 220-volt wall plug, disconnect the fuse or turn the breaker off, then pull the oven away from the wall and pull the plug. Turn the breaker back on and test the wall outlet. Also check the terminal block, located just inside the back of the unit. This is where the main power cord attaches to the oven circuitry. If your oven is wired directly into the house, the wiring will be connected to the terminal block. Follow the steps above and while the power is off, locate the three-wire terminal block and inspect it for signs of damage, overheating, or melted terminals. Some installations have 4 wires. The 4th wire is a ground for the cabinet. Ensure all wiring is clear and remember not to touch bare wires or terminals. To check the terminals for power, turn the breaker or fuse on briefly and check the terminal block for power across all three legs. Then remove the power at the breaker fuse. If the terminal block is receiving power, then the problem is within the oven and you will need to isolate the problem using the wiring diagram, found on the back of the oven in a plastic pouch, or on the back or inside the oven near the broiler. If the terminal block is not receiving power, your house wiring may be the problem. Should this be the case, you will need to call an electrician.
Hope this information helped You.

Check for the correct voltage at the receptacle behind the range where you plug the range power cord in, you should have 220 volts
at the receptacle, it is somewhat common for wires to burn in two at that point.Also, check for the correct voltage at the terminal block on the back of the range where the cord wires onto the range, look for burnt wires there also.
Don't forget to double check that your circuit breakers or fuses are good.
GOOD LUCK !

terminal was loose started arcing like a welder causing heat to melt the block

If the burners are heating up but seem to take along time to get up to heat and your oven doesn't seem to be working you may have only 115 volts of power going to the range rather than the full 240 volts that are needed to power up the bake/broil oven elements.Check circuit breaker(s),check range receptacle behind the range for 240 volts,check for full power at the terminal block on the back of the range where the cord connects to the range.Good luck!

Hi


You must check the main power wires where they enter the range at the T-block, sometimes they can burn off. Also check house fuses (or breaker) that supplies power to the range. Checking with a volt meter, you should get 240 volts between the black and red main power wires. The range receptacle and power cord can also burn and fail. Also check the fuse/circuit breaker and check to see if power is getting to the range/oven. If anything does not turn on then check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the range/oven, gets burned and so breaks the connection. Then you may have to replace the power cord to the range/oven, and the terminal block that the wire is attached to. There may be a broken or burned wire at the back of the range/oven. If you repair any of the wires, use only proper appliance-grade wire and wire connectors.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

check the terminal block, thats where the end of the power cord is attached to the range

Hi...

Try to do this

• Make sure the power cord is plugged in securely
• Test the electric outlet for current
• Inspect the connections to the terminal block
• Test the power cord
• Eliminate use of an extension cord, if any is being used
• Check the outlet voltage

Good luck!!!

Regards
PCmania