Question about Estate TEDS840JQ Electric Dryer

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Dryer runs and drum turns, but will not create any heat at all.

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Sounds like a bad heating element. Go to www.appliancepartspros.com put in your brand and model number. this will pull up a list of all your dryer parts and the schematics of where all parts are. You can also buy parts from them. Great prices, quick service.

Posted on May 08, 2010

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Dryer won't heat on all cycles on timer



ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum 9 this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :

http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.

GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE





Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.








http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor
How to Check Dryer Thermistor eHow

Nov 10, 2016 | Dryers

1 Answer

Samsung dryer has cooling light illuminated on all dryer settings and dryer does not heat


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum 9 this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :

http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.

GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE





Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.






How to Check Dryer Thermistor eHow
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Mar 30, 2016 | Samsung DV448AEE Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer not heating. Repairman checked dryer element and thermostats and were ok, told probably timer switch, replace it and no better, should I replace dryer relay switches 2? Any thoughts?


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum 9 this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE





Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.


How to Check Dryer Thermistor eHow
dryer-not-heating-repairman-checked-25phcnmfugobxkp30l2vvqls-1-0.jpg

dryer-not-heating-repairman-checked-25phcnmfugobxkp30l2vvqls-1-2.jpg

dryer-not-heating-repairman-checked-25phcnmfugobxkp30l2vvqls-1-5.jpg

Feb 22, 2016 | Asko T701 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

11076812693 drum won't turn.


Kenmore Dryer Model 110.76812693 (11076812693) Drum ...

www.repairclinic.com/.../Model-11076812693-Kenmore-Dryer-Drum-T...
Kenmore Dryer Model 110.76812693 (11076812693) Drum & Tub Parts in stock. One million parts for 125 brands. Guaranteed same-day shipping. Call 7 days ...

Kenmore Dryer Model 110.76812693 (11076812693) Motor ...

www.repairclinic.com/.../Model-11076812693-Kenmore-Dryer-Motor-...
Includes pulley for dryer drum drive belt. Other shaft has reverse threads for blower wheel. Common symptoms of a bad drive motor are: -Dryer stops turning ...

Kenmore, Whirlpool Dryer Repair - Heats properly, drum will ...

? 6:29
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOShDc4kLfk
Jul 10, 2013 - Uploaded by ApplianceVideo.com
Service a Kenmore Dryer with some of the following issues: Heats but ... Kenmore, Whirlpool Dryer Repair - Heats properly,drum will not turn - 11068202794 ..... Whirlpool Kenmore Maytag Amana Dryer Won't Start - Easy Fix ...

How To Fix Dryer That Won't Tumble ' Dryer Repair

www.partselect.com/Repair/Dryer/Will-Not-Tumble/

Feb 08, 2016 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer is turned off and the door is open and there is still heat. I have to uplug the dryer in order for the heat to stop. We noticed this one morning, walking into our laundry room. (This was on...


I assume it is an electric dryer with 240 volt plug ? My guess is that it is the contacts in the motor start/relay switch that have welded themselves together and when the motor stops, the heat does not. This switch is located on the motor and it only allows the heat element to operate if the motor is running and creating the air flow. It is worth replacing. Goodluck, Macgivor

Jan 31, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool dryer WED5530SQ0, heats but does not run


So,. basically your drum doesnt turn. SO your getting heat still even though the drum isnt turning. Is this right? Sounds strange??? Do you hear any humming noise when you push the start button? I need to know a little more about the problem because im kinda confused as how you decribed the problem. Iv never seen a dryer heat but the drum not spinning. especially your model dryer. Its electric heat right? because if the drum doesnt spin, maybe your motor is bad. and if your motor is bad, then your heating element wont heat up because the centrifical switch in the motor is not switching to complete the circuit to the heating element. So this is why im confused when you said" Dryer heats when knob turned but when "push button" pressed, drum doesnt run." Because your belt wraps around the motor pully and the motor is what makes the drum turn. Like i said, i never seen this model dryer heat with out the motor operating. So if you can give me some more info, ill do my best to help you out....Thanks!!!!

Jul 30, 2009 | Whirlpool WED5500S Electric Dryer

1 Answer

The heating compenent works, but drum won't spin


Have you checked the belt? That's generally the problem when a dryer stops spinning.

May 19, 2009 | Whirlpool LEQ9858L Electric Dryer

2 Answers

KENMORE DRYER


Hello ENRIGHT11 Welcome to Fixya
My name is Huum,


You said,
DRYER MAKES VERY LOUD NOISE WHEN RUNNING. ALTHOUGH IT HEATS UP AND BEGINS TO DRY, IT STOPS RUNNING COMPLETELY AFTER ABOUT 5 MINUTES. IF YOU WAIT AN HOUR, YOU CAN START IT AGAIN, BUT IT AGAIN SOUNDS VERY LOUD (ALMOST A RATTLING SOUND) AND THEN SHUTS OFF AFTER 5 MINUTES

Faulty Blower Wheel

If you hear a great deal of noise coming from the blower area of the dryer when it is running, then the blower wheel could be defective.

The are many different designs for blower wheels and just as many unique failure modes. Vanes (fins) can break off the wheel and bounce around in the blower breaking more pieces. The blower can break around the coupler with the shaft. This can cause the blower to spin loosely on the shaft. The blower can form cracks which cause it to vibrate, etc.

You should also not be surprised to find foreign debris in the blower. The occasional bird, rodent or squirrel has been known to bypass the out vent cover. If they crawl into the exhaust tube the first thing they come into contact with is the blower wheel.

If the blower wheel is not spinning, or if it is missing vanes, it is not moving air efficiently. As a result, heat is not removed from the heat source and it can trip the high limit switch or blow the thermal cut-off.
Worn Belt
A worn belt can stretch and/or become brittle with age. The belt can then slip on the drum or motor to cause squeaking. If this is the case, the solution is to replace the worn belt.

The belt is not the only item that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum bearings, worn drum glides or worn drum rollers depending on brand and style.

When replacing the Belt is is a good idea to also change the Drum Support Rollers, Drum Glides, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these items are economical easily changeable when replacing the belt. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.
Worn Drum Glides
Some dryer models are equipped with Drum Glides. The front of the dryer rests on these glides. They provide a low friction surface on which the drum spins. After time however, this glides wear down. Much like an automobile brakes, these glides make a load grinding noise when they wear thin. This griding against the drum usually leaves a bare metal stripe that is visible at the point of contact. If the glides are worn, the solution is to replace them.

The drum glides not the only items that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum bearings, a worn belt or worn drum rollers depending on brand and style.

When replacing the Drum Glides it is a good idea to also change the Drum Support Rollers, Drum Belt, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the glides. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.
Worn Rear Drum Bearing
Some dryer models are equiped with a Rear Drum Bearing. The rear of the drum rests on this bearing. It provides a low friction surface on which the drum spins. After time however, this bearing will wear down. If the bearing is worn, the solution is to replace it.

The rear drum bearing not the only item that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum glides, a worn belt or worn drum rollers depending on brand and style.

When replacing the rear drum bearing it is a good idea to also change the drum glides, drum support rollers, drum belt, idler pulley and clips depending on make and model. All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the rear drum bearing. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.
Worn Drum Support Rollers
Some dryers such as Whirlpool/Kenmore brands are equipped with Rear Drum Support Rollers. The weight of the dryer drum rests on these rollers. They provide a low friction surface on which the drum spins when in operation. After time however, these rollers wear down. When they wear, often times they begin to elongate and form a non-round 'cam' shape. The result is that when the dryer is turned on it creates a rumble that sounds as though you are trying to dry a pair of tennis shoes. This sound is usually the drum being forced up and down on the non-round wheels. If the rollers are worn, the solution is to replace them.


When replacing the Drum Rollers it is a good idea to also change the Front Drum Glides, Drum Belt, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the glides. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new. Whirlpool
Kenmore models have a dryer maintenance kit that contains all of these items in a single kit.


Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.


Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.


Recent Customer Symptoms:
Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.


Thank You For trusting us with your question

Please remember to leave a
solved rating before you leave!

Jan 21, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs and heats but drum won't turn.


you need to replace the belt on your dryer

Dec 26, 2008 | Whirlpool LGR8648 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer heating element


There is a fuse in the dryer for the heat.
Before tearing into the dryer, make sure the power getting to the dryer is absolutely correct. (check power with the dryer running) Even with incorrect power to the dryer. the drum will still turn but there will be no heat.
Many a person has paid for expensive service calls for the problem you are having only to discover by the servicer that there was nothing wrong with the dryer but had bad power to the dryer......

Jun 15, 2008 | Whirlpool Dryers

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