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I have a Norcent PT4235 TV. No picture. Nothing happens when I hit the front on/off button. If I hit the master switch at the back, I hear the relays click..then they click again after 5 seconds. Front panel LED goes from Green to a flashing RED,. Looking at the back of the tv ( cover off) three diagnostic LEDS turn on an first,,,then Two on the right turn off after the 5 seconds, and a RED led comes on over th the LEFT on another circuit board. What is wrong here.. Is it a Plasma driver? the power suppliy?

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  • Dillon Blake May 06, 2010

    Hi Taran. Thanks for the Prompt response. How confident are you that this could be the power supply? I am also hoping that it it something simple like this.



    I am a repair center but this is my first Norcent TV of this nature.



    I will check things out as you mentioned and get back to you with an update. If you are correct...I will be delighted.!!!!



    Thanks,



    Dillon.

    Trace Electronics Repair, Ontario, Canada

  • Dillon Blake May 07, 2010

    Hi, I have ckecked for bad capacitors, heat stress, and bad fuses. No bad fueses anywhere on the power supply, the X-Main PCB or the y-main PCB. As I do not have a service manual to read the LED diagnostic codes - This is what is happening:
    When I turn TV on from master switch AT BACK OF tv, rELAYS CLICK ON and all therr green LEDs light up. After 5 seconds,,, the relays click off and LED 8001 and 8002 goes off and LED 8003 stays on. a RED LED 8004 lights up and stays on. I have checked all fuses..and no signs of heat stress of bad swollen capacitors.

  • Dillon Blake May 07, 2010

    No set pattern....front panel LED comes on green. There is no operation with the on/Off Switch. You press it and nothing happens. Then...Green LED on fron panel goes red...and flashes red continuously. until you shut off set using master switch at back.

  • Dillon Blake May 08, 2010

    Hi. I really know everything you just told me. I do have much experience in electronics component repair etc. Yes. Plasma's are new to me. I guess what I am asking is..Does anyone know the service codes..or what the the diagnostic LED's on the power supply board are telling me? I really don't want to get into swapping boards. Worst case..I will give the TV back to my customer and tell him to scrap it? Thanks..Trace Electronics Repair. www.traceelectronicsrepair.com



  • Dillon Blake May 08, 2010

    Good Information. Just today I looked closer at the PSU and there is a white jumper (J8003) that when removed..takes the power away fron the PANEL. When I remove the jumper...the Power supply stays on and does not shut down. Listening closely..I hear the tv speakers functioning.



    When I power off...add jumper...and turn set on...TV shuts down...in protection mode again.



    What does this tell you? Is it the power supply not supplying the correct voltage..or is it the actual panel gone defective.



    Thank you for the part #'s and the information that you provided.



    I am a repair shop..and not a DIY'er. Been gdoing this for a while now and am well know repair guy for my area.



    Look forward to your feedback.



    Thank You,



    Trace Electronics Repair, Ontario, Canada.



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Hi.

The clicking noise and the leds on mean that there is an incorrect voltage value detected from the main controller board. When this happen we say that the main controller is forcing the PSU to standby, sending the set in protect mode.In protect mode only

The PSU can be tested bridging the low voltage control lines that are turning the higher DC volts from PSU on.

The procedure to test the PSU is illustrated in the following article. I wrote the article for LCD, but the procedure is more or less the same on your plasma TV. Simply disregard the part on inverter (plasma work in a different way and have no inverter or backlight system) How to test an LCD TV or monitor PSU .

Bridging the voltage lines is a repair suitable for an experienced technician. If you are a DIYer, better testing the resistors and components near to the faulty capacitors by reading Ohms to check if they have continuity. This operation is done with power not connected.

Regarding the part, better fixing the power board at component level. A replacement board for a Norcent Plasma will be around $180. Here the board for 4233 (LG part):
Power Supply . PT 4235 parts must be ordered contacting the seller.

Regards.

Posted on May 08, 2010

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  • Master
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The blinking light signifies to a repair technician with capacitors or circuits are having an issue they can diagnose the problem via the amount of blinks in between pauses however it will require a technician and some specific tools and schematics to fix and it may be cheaper if its no longer under warranty to purchase a new one


Hope this helped
Robb

Posted on May 08, 2010

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Http://www.eserviceinfo.com/equipment_mfg/NORCENT_3.html
http://www.scribd.com/doc/7581433/RCA-Chassis-CTC203-TV-Trainning-Manual
http://elektrotanya.com/daewoo_dlp-3212_chassis_sl-210p.pdf/download.html
Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go, but you must make sure that you are starting in the right place, That is The Power Supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. The Tools you will need are A SERVICE MANUAL a Good Multimeter, a Signal generator, a Signal Tracer, pref an Oscilloscope, Soldering Iron, De-soldering iron, Probably, too, A SMT Hot Air desolderer (for the Surface Mount IC's) Air, An Anti-Static Wrist Strap, (MOST IMPORTANT, to prevent ESD), Cutters, Screwdrivers, sometimes, Torx, drivers too. Tweezers, are real handy, magnifying glass or eyepiece, a good strong Light. OH and you MUST have the original remote control too, as one needs this to "Program" the Computer in the TV, after, and during servicing, and to be able to put the TV, into "Service Mode" too. So, thats about it, Also to remember that you are dealing with a unit, that can cause a fire, or an explosion, or both, this is not to be undertaken, lightly, for instance if one services a unit, and for whatever reason say, it caught fire, and burned, say, a house down, and heaven forbid, killed, someone, the REPAIRER of the UNIT is Criminally LIABLE, just a little point to remember, to ensure you ALWAYS DO A PROPER JOB.
Service manual below, above at top, are service and training manuals, these will help you understand just what you are up against. http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/21043/NORCENT_LT2722.html
http://elektrotanya.com/lg_42pc3d-series.pdf/download.html
Plasma training manuals, above.
it is my professional opinion though that everyone should take their units to their manufacturers approved service center, contacting a head office, of your unit & getting an approved service center is just SO important, even worth the extra to ship it, you see, at those places, the Engineers, are trained on the equipment you have, they usually have parts on hand, and do the job quicker. Anyway do that and get a "Quote". This way, at least, you'll know weather to repair or replace.

Posted on May 07, 2010

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  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

Is there a set pattern of flashes?

Posted on May 07, 2010

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Hi,

More likely it is Power Supply Board. You need to Open the TV. Make sure it would be Unplugged. You need to Take all the Precautions. Locate the Power Supply Board. Remove the Connectors and Pull out the Board. Once you Pull out the Board, with the Help of Magnifying Glass, locate Cold Solder Joint. If Everything is OK, then you would Locate Bulged / Leaked / Swelled Caps. They would have Ammonia kind of Odor. You need to De-Solder them. You could take the same to Radio Shack / Fry's / Order Online. Once you get the New Caps, Solder them and it is all set.You also need to Check Fuses around that.

Getting a Service Manual for this Model could be tough, but i would be able to ask few vendors, in case problem would not be resolved. Usually, you could easy repair the Power Supply Board, if you could catch Few Bad Caps.


Note - I am Assuming that all the Cords and Connections are Fine.

Let me know,once done.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on May 06, 2010

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 May 06, 2010

    Thanks for your response!!

    The reason i would say, Check Power Supply is the Clicking Noise. 90% whenever you would hear Clicking or Pop Sound, it indicates Power Supply irrespective of the Brand. Then, we usually go and Proceed with other troubleshooting. No doubt it could be Board or it could be a Multiple Component Failure. However, i would Recommend to Inspect the Power Supply. If you do not Find any Bad Caps, then we Could Check the Power Coming In and Out of Power Supply Board and follow up from there based on the Symptoms.

    Let me know,if needed further assistance.

    Hope

    i helped you.

    Thanks


    for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!











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