Question about Maytag Neptune MDG9700A Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer won't run. has error code like capitol E with the top missing and a 5 - E5 code is not in service manual. All leds work. THanks Ed

Posted by on

  • 7 more comments 
  • ed32223 May 06, 2010

    I have the service manual and have been through all the codes. there is nothing like the described error code listed. All leds check out so that is not the problem. I have been through all the tests and everything checks out. I was in the process of changing a bad thermistor when this code came up.
    the new thremistor checks out. any other thoughts?


  • ed32223 May 06, 2010

    I was able to enter service mode but the clear code process seemed to have no effect. No bells or numbers. I am left with a flashing code that looka like a capitol E with no top and a 5 E5

    Any other thoughts?


  • ed32223 May 07, 2010

    The unit ran before changing the trermistor, It just didn't heat up. Now I have this odd code that can't be unique to my machine. I follow your logig but don't think it apply's to this situation. I may have loosened something else up and so I have double checked everything. The error code is the key. How can I find out more about that?

  • ed32223 May 07, 2010

    If i remove the thermistor wiring from the thermistor, I get the same reading. This should mean that the thermistor is OK and that the problem must be in the wiring or elsewhere. I think resetting the unit is the key. It will not let me reset the error codes. could it need a new brain or is there a different or master reset?

  • ed32223 May 07, 2010

    I went through all the tests this morning and the error codes cleared and the machine now operates. I am still not getting the gas to fire. Just cold air. I do hear the solenoid kick in but no fire.

    Ed

  • ed32223 May 08, 2010

    Dryer pilot comes on and fires in several different settings with the front off.
    It will not stay lit with a load of clothes in it. there is a strong draft coming out the wall cap vent outside.
    the clothes are cold and damp while machine is operating.

    Any thoughts?


  • ed32223 May 08, 2010

    Originally, I replaced the thermister because there was no resistance. the new one has resistance
    The flame only runs a short while with the fronrt off before it cuts off..

  • ed32223 May 09, 2010

    I don't know how to view the flame and electric pilot without the front on.
    The unit once again is back together and the heat works randomly but seldom. The ignitor appears to work properly, the gas will fire. It just doesn't heat and dry clothes. I can't figure why the heat continues not to work regularly.

    Thanks for your help
    Ed


  • ed32223 May 09, 2010

    THe air is blasting out the exterior wall cap with no restriction.- My guess is the coll is the next thing to change? Is there a test for the coils? Could it be anything else?

    THanks


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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 2,468 Answers

Have you checked the "technical data sheet" thats supposed to be on the rear panel for any codes?

Posted on May 14, 2010

  • 9 more comments 
  • ed32223 May 15, 2010

    Yes, I checked the error codes and one of them was thermistor. I replaced the thermistor and the unit wouldn't work at all. I cleared the error codes and the machine would operate but would not warm while drying, The current new thermistor has 13.8k resistance. the specification is for 10K. I think i got a bad replacement. The original had 0 resistance. The appliance part distributor is ordering another thermistor to check the resistance. if it is 10K Ohms I will try that one.
    That is where I am.
    I will try the new thermistor Monday when it is in and report back.
    Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Ed

  • danny Hendrickson May 15, 2010

    check the radiant senser eye on the burner tube side if dirty they can't recognize the flame,they change in resistance as the unit fires allowing the flame to continue,i can't give you an accurate read for resistance because they all read different resistances,you could try bypassing it with a jumper wire,otherwise the gas valve boost and secondary coils on the gas valve body may be weak and need replacing

  • ed32223 May 18, 2010

    Here is the latest. I replaced the thermistor with one that was closer manufacturer specifications. While I was in there I cleaned the sensor for the flame. Same results - Cold laundry. The unit will fire and keep warm the first time after it has had the plug out and taken apart for servicing. Open the door once and it is back to not working.
    There are no error codes.
    The randomness of the flame not staying on used to be once in a while, now it is all the time with a random fire now and then.

    Is there a special way to clean the flame sensor? I just wiped it off.

    Does the above information point to anything else?

    THanks,
    Ed


  • ed32223 May 19, 2010

    Please respond or let me know if i am no longer provided advice.

    Thanks,
    Ed


  • danny Hendrickson May 19, 2010

    just another idea,Ed,have you tried replacing or bypassing the door "plunger" switch? if these don't make contact from age it wont let the unit start,they may look good,but i have taken them out and they fell apart

  • ed32223 May 19, 2010

    The switch is sound and tests per manufacturer specifications.
    THe unit runs and gas fires but goes out within 30 seconds.
    When the unit is taken apart. it usually runs hot the first cycle only.
    The thermistor was dead when I first attempted to fix it.
    It was temperamental according to my wife and sometimes would not fire before the thermistor problem.
    That is where were are now.
    THanks,
    Ed


  • danny Hendrickson May 19, 2010

    have you removed the ribbon cable(s) or harnesses off the control board or wiggled them just to see if there might be a small amount of corrosion that might interfere with and power signals,if so then Ed,I would start bypassing any and all thermostats and thermal switches and see where this leads,including the flame senser

  • ed32223 May 19, 2010

    I removed and reconnected ribbon cables, checked all thermostats for continuity and covered the front with a piece of wood so I could watch while the machine ran. It fired and stayed on for over 2 minutes which often happens when it is first turned on after being serviced. I reassembled the unit and it is back to cycling off gas fire after 25 seconds. and not reigniting for the rest of the drying time.

    It is starting to sound like a control board to me.

    What do you think?

    Ed




  • danny Hendrickson May 19, 2010

    Yes Ed, if you have checked and all sensors,thermostats,any and all connections on the unit are good per specs,but just make sure you have bypassed ALL components possible first, then a bad ground to the control board could have ruined the board especially if there are any MOSFETs or FET's on this board,used in the sensory circuitry during the wash cycles,then it's new control board time

  • danny Hendrickson May 19, 2010

    also an added comment,there are no codes that i have seen with the E without a top on it, this would also lead to a digital driver output I.C. on the control board too and this could be part of the units control problem

  • ed32223 May 23, 2010

    I looked around on the internet a little more and found similar symptoms to be caused by the coils on the gas valve. I replaced them and the problem is now gone.
    Finally.
    Thanks for your help.

    Ed


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  • Master
  • 949 Answers

Hi,

Could it be a 'tS'?

That is the Maytag code for Shorted Thermistor

Posted on May 06, 2010

  • 19 more comments 
  • Philip May 06, 2010

    Ed,

    Here is a link to the technical sheet on the dryer, not sure if you have this or not, but we can use this to help figure out what is wrong.

    maytag_library/docs/16026117.pdf


  • Philip May 06, 2010

    Does the motor run at all or any sound from the motor?

  • Philip May 06, 2010

    Ed,

    I found a Maytag bulletin that might help.

    Dryer may flash a Consumer Fault Code and not run following a repair.

    Action: The control board remembers the diagnostic code(s) that initiated the repair.
    Even though the cause of the diagnostic code has been corrected, the control board prevents the
    dryer from operating.
    Upon completing a dryer repair, all diagnostic codes must be cleared before the dryer will operate.
    To clear the diagnostic code list, first enter the Service Mode by pressing and holding the Chime
    and Temperature keypads for three seconds. Next, press and hold the Sensor Dry Level and Time
    keypads at the same time for three seconds while viewing the list. This will clear the diagnostic code
    list. Finally, exit the Service Mode by pressing and holding the Chime and Temperature keypads
    for three seconds.


  • Philip May 06, 2010

    That sure sound like the tS on the tech sheet, if you replaced the thermistor, can you check the thermistor reading up at the control board? My thought is the wiring between the thermistor and board may be shorted. You should get the same reading on the thermistor as you would on the thermistor wire to the board. Follow my logic?

  • Philip May 07, 2010

    The tech sheet attached here shows all the codes for your dryer on page 5.

    I have looked for any other technical information on this unit and only found that one bulletin about the control reset once a component is replaced.

    I follow you that something may have come off. But at a loss of what it is, I am pretty confident the partial e you are seeing is the lower case t and the 5 is an S. So it leads me to believe the thermistor, thermistor wiring from the control or the control itself is bad internally.




  • Philip May 07, 2010

    Here is a link to a Maytag technical information site if you want to dig around in there, that is where I have been looking.

    http://servicematters.com/maytag_library...


  • Philip May 07, 2010

    I follow what you are saying and agree. Unfortunately there is no reset only the main control itself. Once the component and wiring are eliminated all that is left is the control

  • Philip May 07, 2010

    Strange but good!, Can you see if the ignitor is glowing?

  • Philip May 08, 2010

    Hi Ed,

    The flame should stay on for quite a while until the clothes are getting close to being dry.

    A couple of things to look for when the flame goes out:

    If the glow ignitor comes back on and then off without lighting the main flame then the problem is the coils on the gas valve. (if this is the symptom I can explain why later)

    If the flame goes out and it takes a while for the glow ignitor to glow again and it lights the flame then the dryer heat is turning off from the thermistor


  • Philip May 08, 2010

    With the front off do you mean the door and air flow ducts too? If so this will cause the flame to shut off right away.

    If the door and ducts are all connected and the flame goes off does the ignitor come back on and then the flame or just the ignitor and no flame?


  • Philip May 09, 2010

    Hi Ed,

    If the heat works seldom (like only comes back on after a 1/2 hour or so of not heating) the most likely reason for that is the gas valve coils. They can be good when cold and break down once heated up.

    The other thing that can cause the burner to run a short period (couple minutes on and off for 5 or 10) is restricted air flow, if the venting is not allowing free flow of air to outside (like you experienced with the front off). To check for this run the dryer assembled but with the vent disconnected


  • Philip May 09, 2010

    before you change the coils check the temperature at the exhaust. See what temperature it reaches at maximum and how cold it gets before turning on.

    If the range is really wide (lets say 155 F off and 80 F on) then yes the coils are the best shot. If it is 155 off and 110 on then it could be something else, what that something is I am just not sure.


  • ed32223 May 13, 2010

    Here is the latest. I measured the resistance from the circuit board connector to the thermistor and got 13.8K ohms.
    The specifications are 10K Ohms. is the variance enough to cause problems? the original thermistor had no resistance.
    Is a 30% variable enough to cause problems? the thermistor has the same resistance as the reading on the other end of the harness.
    Thanks,
    Ed


  • Philip May 13, 2010

    Hi Ed,

    I believe that thermistor is PTC (positive temperature coefficient) meaning as the temperature rises the resistance goes up on the thermistor, it is also not linear.

    So what that means is if we are off by 3K it could mean the control thinks the temperature is already 120 or so.

    Check the resistance at the thermistor, if it is okay there then one of the wire connections may be breaking down between the thermistor and the board.


  • ed32223 May 13, 2010

    The resistance is the same on the other end of the harness as at the thermistor so that checks out.

  • Philip May 13, 2010

    That is interesting, the new thermistor is off by that much, was the rating you got from the service manual:?

  • ed32223 May 13, 2010

    The resistance was from the service manual. I called the parts supplier and he said he never had a bad thermistor. I asked him to order another one and we would compare the resistance. if the new replacement has a different resistance closer to 10K and the problem goes away, he will not charge for the second thermistor.

  • Philip May 13, 2010

    That sounds like the best approach, a thermistor is a common failure part but I would agree not too many are bad out of the box (bag), I cannot recall having a bad one either.

    Were you able to check the cycling temperatures?


  • ed32223 May 13, 2010

    Most of the time there is no heat so checking the temperature is difficult.

  • Philip May 13, 2010

    Ok, thanks

  • ed32223 May 14, 2010

    The parts sales man says it sounds like the unit needs a new circuit panel. I still think it is the thermister that is out of operating range. Unfortunately no one stocks the part and I have to wait until next week. My wife is upset about another weekend with no dryer. Either i put it together and run 4 cycles on cold to keep up with the laundry or hang dry.

    The machine will fire up but goes off within 30 seconds. Hardly enough time to warm anything up.

    Ed


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hi dear

hi dear

may the error code or how many blinking can solve your problem

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E33 Paper feed position error
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try this methode

Methode 1

1) With the printer powered off but connected to a power source, press the Power button while pressing and holding
the Stop/ Reset button.
2) When the Power LED is lit, press the Stop/Reset button two times while pressing and holding the Power button.
3) When releasing the Power button and the Stop / Reset button (regardless of order), the printer will move into a
service mode. (Waiting formenu selection)
4) When the LED lights in green, press the Stop/Reset button the specified number of time(s) according to the
function listed in the table below.(Each time the Stop/Reset button is pressed, the LED
lights alternately in
orange and green, starting with orange.)
The number of the Reset
button pressing
LED Function Remarks

0 time Green Power off
1 time Orange Service pattern print
2 times Green EEPROM print
3 times Orange EEPROM reset
4 times Green Waste ink counter reset See waste ink counter reset
procedures below.
5 times Orange Destination setting See Destination setting
procedures below.
6 times Green Print head deep cleaning
11 times Orange Button / LCD checking
12 or more times Returns to a menu selection


that's all


maybe it can fix your problem



thanks


cropp


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