Question about Echo CS600P Gas Chainsaw 20 Inch

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No Start Echo CS 670

Have 2006 Echo CS670 purchased new. Light to moderate use around house/yard. This year(spring) cut 1 dead tree and saw stopped running and starter was impossible to pull. Took it apart saw nothing but was ablle to get the engine to tturn by tapping fly wheel. Started and cut two stumps plopped and went dead like out of gas bu was not. Has fuel and fire at plug and in cylinder but will not start. Echo Dealer(Local Ace) completed diagnosis and determine engine is junk, low/bad compression (but it doesn't feel like it).
It's outside warrany period. Fix/rebuild is $400+.
CAN'T BELIEVE A LOW HRS of USE AND HIGH DOLLAR SAW IS TOAST. IT HAS NOT BEEN USED HARD. Any ideas? Hate to trash it if reasonable fix avail.

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Sorry to echo the bad news you heard but... often metal transfer from the piston to the cylinder feels like compression. Try part 3 of this, Attempt to shine a light into the plug hole through while inspecting above the exhaust port. Most often in a run lean condition metal transfer occurs above the exhaust manifold.
Starter Handle difficult to pull:
1. Remove the starter cover.
Inspect the flywheel and crankshaft under the starter cover. Are the woodruff key slots on the crack shaft and flywheel aligned and the key intact? If not; Please consider taking the saw to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair or ordering any parts; if yes continue.
Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if not repair the starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including but not limited to; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; cracked fuel delivery lines; running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the plug. Remove the muffler (clean it and the spark arrestor before reinstalling), hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Please Note: Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.

The cost of a P&C nears the cost of a new saw. Join here, search for acid and maybe you can get by with just replacing the piston. This is good bunch of folk that will offer all help possible.
ArboristSite Chainsaw thread (free to join)
An example of a repair here:

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Thank You for using FixYa.

Posted on May 06, 2010

  • dontbother10
    dontbother10 May 06, 2010

    Sometimes the tool rental center of a local Home Depot sells used Makita DCS6401 saws. They generally go for $200-300. This is a fine professional quality saw made by Dolmar. As long as you leave a deposit they should allow an inspection by an independent mechanic (I suggest Stihl $10-20). I would explore this possibility before investing in a run lean repair. It may be possible to recoup some of your Echo investment by selling it for parts.



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