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Whirpool Dryer will not start. Mod # LER 8648PG0 Tried everything but replacing parts. What part do I replace first.

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  • jorge9053 May 06, 2010

    Checked fuses, now what.

  • jorge9053 May 06, 2010

    How do I verify the power?

    What setting do I put the Multimeter?

    What wires do I touch with the red and which with black?

    Please advise so that I can confirm.

    If power is present then I need to replace it, correct?

  • jorge9053 May 07, 2010

    Replaced the timer. Dryer still does not work.

    I am noticing that the dryer light stays on.

    Is this supposed to go off when door is closed?

    I can not find a switch or anything to make the light turn off.

    The door has plastic insert that a metal rod goes into, but everything is inclosed.

    Please advise.



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Check for continuity.

see the answer in your previous post -

Comment posted on May 06, 2010 CLICK HERE to see both.

One (thermal fuse) is located on the blower housing cover

and one (high limit cutoff) is located at #9 in the same diagram. better seen HERE

Check for continuity on both.
Access should be from a removeable panel on the rear of the unit.


Posted on May 06, 2010

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  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 06, 2010

    Verify there is power at the Timer up in the control console. If there is power - the timer i bad and requires replacement.

    CLICK HERE to see it.

    #21 in THIS DIAGRAM

    The timer controls all functionality of the unit.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 06, 2010

    You will find a service manual inside the control bezel.

    It will indicate the main power harness. These are the wires to probe.

    Set your multimeter to ac 100x

    You're looking for 120V supply power.

    Really - you can get the same result probing the outlet - but taking the reading at the timer rules out all wiring coming before it.


  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 07, 2010

    You are correct that the door switch is not working properly if the light remains on.

    I guess I was under the assumption there was no power getting to the machine at all.

    Thats why I instructed you to probe for 120V at the timer.

    CLICK HERE to see the switch.

    Sometimes the metal tab can be bent (that little rod you referred to actuates the switch).

    #10 in THIS DIAGRAM

    The hardest part will be getting the lid popped (think hood of a car) you can use a screwdriver or putty knive to raise the hood. In each front corner there is a small tab you must release to get the lid to pop up.

    (see #20 in the diagram) Stick in the putty knife and pry upwards.




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