a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Most likely suspects in this scenario would be the heating element or the temperature sensing rod. Not sure what the sensing rod setup on this oven looks like, but it is generally a few inches long, similar diameter to a charging cable for your phone, attached to the back wall of the oven and sticking out directly toward the oven door. If it goes bad, the oven may think it has reached the set temperature and turn off, but generally, it is the opposite (it allows the oven to get too hot). My guess is heating element, but the sensor generally costs a lot less to replace, though maybe not with a small toaster oven. Good luck!
I would check all of the fuses, the internal fuses and wiring for any signs of damage and that particularly from heat. Also multimeter the connectors of the wiring to the element and see if you are getting a voltage reading, if you get a reading from the wiring and the element is not heating up, then you need to replace that element, do these checks for all of the internal components and you will find the one at fault.
I do hope this is the fixya for you and look forward to hearing how you get on.
it is several prosibilites for your problem:
1) the wire of the oven is damaged;
2) the thermostat is decalibrated or damaged;
3) one or more heating element is intrerupted or burned.
1) check the wire an replace or repair where is posible whit similar heat resistant wire;
2) replace the thermostat whit similar one;
3) replace the heating element
Solution: buy a new toaster oven. I determined that the manufacturer stopped selling replacement heating elements in 2006, three years after the model year (2003). After market parts makers don't sell the elements for safety and liability reasons. So I got a new one.
If the top element is working, then it is either the element, the wiring harness , or the control board.
Since both elements are controlled through the same temperature probe, then the temp. probe should be OK.
The heating element must be removed and tested using a multimeter.
The part is tested disconnecting wiring from element contacts, setting a multimeter to read impedance at Rx1, and reading Ohms on element contact. If the circuit is open (no continuity and infinite Ohms value), then the element has blown and must be replaced.
If the element has continuity, test the wiring harness, then replace wiring harness or control board.
All the test must be done by a trained repairer, strictly observing all health and safety rules.
you are correct . it is the convection . the fan blows the air around and away from the elements ,when that is happening the elements can never get hot enough to glow , as the oven gets hotter and at some point the air is so hot even with it blowing the elements will start to get red ... this is good because todays elements are thin and cheep and melt easy so the fan keeps the heat away from them and the elements last longer ...... if this answer helped please rate it a 3 or 4 stars .this high rate will help keep me in the paid answer department ... thank you
I investigated further (took it apart again to satisfy my curiosity) and it appears that one of the top heating elements (the front one) is open (burnt out). I cannot see an easy way to replace it (contacts are spot welded) and I can't find a place to buy the element. If I could it probably won't be worth it since a new oven costs $25 at Target (B&D TR0490W). Too bad since the oven looks like new. I assume the upper elements burn out more frequently because heat rises from the lower elements and adds extra heat at the top.