Question about Sun Microsystems Ultra 5 Power Supply (p/n 370-3162) (370-3162 370-3162) 200-Watt Power Supply

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Sir,i lost my a124po lcd monitor'power supply and

Sir,i lost my a124po lcd monitor'power supply(14 volt dc,4 pins) and and from were i will get a new one online?how much the cost will coms?

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Computer wont start 2

First post,

Plus I have read all the other posts up to this one.

The difficult thing to do, when trying to guide someone over the internet I have found; is Communication.

Whose fault is it when miscommunication develops?
No one's.

We have to simply strive to get our points across.
Both the person with the problem, and the person providing the solution.

With all due respect sir, you are not understanding; and your solution providers do not seem to be picking up on this.

Shall we begin again, fresh?

This is going to be long. You may have to walk away, then come back, and read it again. I need your patience. I can tell you are intelligent.

The reason it will be so long, is;
A) I have to explain what EACH, and every cable is.
B) I have to explain basic precautions.
C) I have to try to put us both on the same 'playing field'.

This is what I do Mateo, and I love it.

Moving on..........

1) That P4 power cable you are referring to, is a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable.
It provides power for the Processor.
Yes sir. NEEDS to be plugged in.

2) The other cable you reference to, is a SATA power cable,

15 contact pins.
In comparison to a SATA data cable, it's connector is the larger of the two.
A SATA data cable connector has 7-pins,

This particular SATA data cable's connector, has a 90 degree bent elbow.
This style of bent elbow connector, is used to plug into the back of a Harddrive, or optical drive. (CD/DVD drive)

NOT always the case, though. A straight connector style can be used. A straight connector end is used to plug into the motherboard.
Also note the L-shaped opening.
A SATA power cable connector, also has this L-shaped opening.

You will also see these types of power cables,

4-pin Peripheral power cable.
Commonly known as a 'Molex' power cable. This is erroneous.
Molex was just the first company to make THAT connector.

Name stuck.
Kind of like calling an open-end adjustable wrench, a 'Crescent Wrench'

Those P1, P2, P3, P4, P5, etc, designations you see on the cable's connectors?

Doesn't mean squat to a tree.

WHAT, the power cables ARE, does.
Look at the connectors is how you find out.

Moving on............

I just saw you do something that could fry your computer out.
Power plugged into the computer, computer on, and your little hands IN the computer.

This = NO

The computer is Unplugged from power, BEFORE working on it.
ALSO,.....Anti-Static Procedures are followed.

Anti-Static Procedures:
Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer.

RELIEVE your body of Static, BEFORE reaching inside your UNPLUGGED from power computer.

{Not 'shouting'. I am emphasizing}

Computer ON a table, computer Unplugged from power, computer case open;
TOUCH an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of the open computer case.

This action will relieve your body of Static.

IF, you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again upon your return.

Don't follow Anti-Static Procedures, and you can use your motherboard for a Frisbee.

(WHOA! Look at that THING go! ............whoops, sorry dog!)

You can also use the Processor for a neck trinket, and the Ram Memory for Christmas decorations.

Computer on, and unplug that 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable?

Good way to get a voltage spike, and fry stuff out.

Moving on.................

1) If ALL of those LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor (CPU) can use 51 to 130 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is.

If you haven't caused a voltage spike, and fried stuff, and IF you have been following Anti-Static Precautions; just replace the Power Supply.

THAT, is your problem.

How do I know?
See what happens, when you plug the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable in?
Power supply turns off.

That power cable is for the Processor. The hardware component that uses the most power.

Means your Power Supply has a weak voltage power rail.

Enough power to light those simpy LED's, and spin fans; but NOT enough power to turn the Processor on.

When diagnosing a desktop computer, the FIRST thing to check is the Power Supply.

MUST be known that it is good, BEFORE going on.

Before thinking about rushing out, and buying a replacement Power Supply, is there a working computer you can BORROW the Power Supply from?

Has to have the same case shape, and needed power cables.
Probably better have at least 250 Watts also.

Your Power Supply is an ATX form factor.

Size, and case shape of Power Supply, is;
Approximately 6 inches Wide.
Approx. 5 and 1/2 inches Long.
Approx. 3 and 1/2 inches Tall.

Plus the needed power cables. Look at your Power Supply now, and compare.

Not feasible for you?

Got $5 to $12 bucks you can let go of?
Then purchase a multimeter.
Auto parts stores have them, but more expensive.
I have seen them on checkout aisle racks, in major discount stores.

(Big Lots, wally world, Kmart, etc)

Then I will step by step you through using the multimeter, and checking each voltage power rail.

Your Power Supply (SMPS) is a Converter.
Converts the high AC electricity, in your home, or business; into
3 LOW DC Voltages.

(US = 120 Volts AC, Japan = 100 Volts AC, UK = 240 Volts AC, Australia = 240 Volts AC)

The 3 low DC voltages are;
A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts

In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

ALL Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
ALL Red wires are 5 Volts
ALL Yellow wires are 12 Volts.

ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

This is a DC circuit.
The power wires listed above are Positive.
The Black wires are Negative.

I would like you to test the low DC voltages I stated,
Use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply for a test unit.

This way you are not spending bucks for a Power Supply, and find out it MAY not be the problem; and be hatin' on me. lol!

Awaiting your reply,

(ATX12V is a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable)

Mar 27, 2013 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

No display on monitor

No Signal, or monitor going into Sleep Mode, or Power Saver Mode.

No video signal is coming from the computer to the monitor.

1) Check the monitor cable. Substitute with another KNOWN to be good monitor cable, or if it is attached use a KNOWN to be working monitor, and cable.

2) Monitor cable checks out OK the problem is the computer.
The two leading causes of desktop computer failure is the computer is dirty inside, and Power Supply failure.

FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions;
Computer on a table, computer unplugged from power, computer case open. TOUCH an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of the open computer case.
This action will relieve your body of Static electricity.

IF you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again upon your return.

Use a can, or two, of compressed air for computers, and clean out the inside of the computer. Attach the plastic straw provided into the nozzle, and break the plastic lock tab off the top of the nozzle.
Pay special attention to the Processor fan, and finned Heatsink under it.
(You may need to use Q-tips also, to 'break the crust' of the Gunk, so the air can remove it)

3) Computer isn't dirty inside, or cleaning brings no joy?
Power Supply could have a weak voltage power rail.
(There are three; 3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts)

1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power. Just depends on what Processor it is.

This is why you may see LED lights light, and maybe fans spin, but the computer doesn't come on.
NOT enough power to turn the Processor on.

Suggest test the 3 main voltages coming out of the Power Supply, or use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply for a test unit.
Perhaps there is a working unused computer you can borrow it's Power Supply, for a test unit.

An economical multimeter can be purchased for as little as $5 to $12. Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example.

If you know how to use a multimeter set it to DC Voltage. (Unless it is one of the ones, that automatically sense whether it is AC voltage, or DC voltage)
Use straightened out paper clips inserted into the back of the 20-pin, or 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector,

Main power cable is plugged in, as shown in the photo to the far right.
The straightened out paper clip goes down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire in the socket hole.
Has to slide down in the socket hole past the insulation of the wire, and touch a metal terminal at the end of the wire.

Orange wires are 3.3 Volts (DC)
Red wires are 5 Volts (DC)
Yellow wires are 12 Volts (DC)
ALL Black wires are Ground wires. (Negative)

Power supply turned on; (Computer turned on),
Paper clip in Orange wire socket hole. Positive (Red) probe lead touches it.
Paper clip in ANY socket hole with a Black wire. Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter touches it.
You should be reading VERY close to 3.3 Volts (DC)

Do the same for a Red wire, (5 Volts), and a Yellow wire. (12 Volts)

Worried about shock?
Two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.
The dangerous voltages are contained in the metal case of the Power Supply.

Also following Anti-Static Precautions, remove the Ram Memory module/s ('Stick'), and clean the gold plated contact pins with an eraser.

Handle the Ram Memory module by the BODY.
The Body is everywhere on the ram memory module, Except the gold plated contact pins on the bottom,

The Body is coated with a see-through protective plastic.
If you are using an eraser on the end of a pencil, and not a solid eraser, refrain from letting the metal band of the pencil touch the gold plated contact pins.

Rub up, and down on EACH contact pin. BOTH sides. Doesn't take much pressure, and very much cleaning. The contact pins may not appear shiny, and bright when you are done. When you are finished it may seem like you have done nothing at all. I assure you that you have.
Doesn't take very much 'corrosion' to make a bad contact.

Use air to remove the eraser dust. If you have a can of compressed air you can use it. If not air pressure from your mouth will be sufficient.
Reinstall the ram memory module/s.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.


Oct 01, 2012 | ASUS Computers & Internet

1 Answer

I need a power supply for a 57-c3 monitor. 12v dc 85w

I guess you could be looking for something like these

Apr 11, 2011 | Planar DOME C3 20.8 in. Flat Panel LCD...

1 Answer

I need an internal pin out diagram for a 4 Pin connector to connect power supply to a hp pavillion f70 monitor. I do have a power supply with same specs but it has a normal plug with outer as +ve and Inner...

12 VDC , 4.16 A (4,16 A) Frequency: 50/60 Hz Power Consumption: less than 36 W in operating mode.
I think the other two pins are not used. It just requires the 12 Volts DC. +ve and -ve, positive and negative, respectively.

Feb 10, 2011 | HP Pavilion F70 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

1 Answer

Power Pin-out?

I have built an adapter cable which allows to use monitor with the power supply of an external hard drive. The image below contains the pin-out for the power connector of the L50A as well as the wiring scheme for the adapter cable.

For users in Germany, here is the list of complete part list with prices:
  1. Universal Power Supply 12V 2A DC and 5V 2A DC, 13.20€
  2. 6-Pin Mini-DIN Male, 0.71€
  3. 6-Pin Mini-DIN Female, 0,71€
  4. 5m 6-Wire Cable, 2.80€


Have fun, Wolfgang.

Nov 27, 2008 | Hyundai ImageQuest L50A 15.1" Flat Panel...

1 Answer

Power connection pinout

Here is a pin connection specification for the ac power supply (dual voltage adaptor)
>socket/plug for a Compaq TFT450 LCD Monitor that she
>supplied (edited for further clarity).
>The pins of the male connector (a PS2 mouse type connector) should be connected like this:
> 1 2
> 3 I 4
> 5 ^ 6
> 5V I 12V
> 5V ^ 12V
>For clarification - the male will be the end of your cable, and not the socket on the monitor.
>The I is the central polarising bar of the connector, and the ^ is the notch.

Jun 16, 2008 | Compaq TFT450 14" LCD Monitor

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