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I'm replacing a regular 40 Amp Breaker to my stove,with a 40 Amp GE shunt breaker. Using a number 14/2 romax wire,which is connected to my fire suppression above the stove,do in connect the two lead wires on the shunt trip breaker to the positive line on by 14/2 grade wire?

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A Shunt Breaker works, and is wired, just like a normal circuit breaker. Bur, with one additional function. A shunt-trip breaker also has a built-in magnetic coil that can be energized externally to trip the breaker. This is an additional pair of wires, as they are essentially, "Signal" wires, they do NOT have to have the same current carrying properties that the main Wiring used, Basically, a "Breaker" sits in the Phase Wire, and using a pair of suitable rated Contacts, Joins, or disconnects, the Power form the "Hot" side to the "Cold" side. Now the extra pair of wires, is basically a "Switch" or an Activator. as such, you could use any convenient wire, so, yes you could indeed use that 14/2 wire. This circuit, is basically, a separate circuit. Whose only function is to externally "Trip" the breaker, as in when the "Fire Protection System", "Senses, or detects" a Fire, it will trip the breaker, cutting the Power to the Stove. By putting a Voltage, onto this magnetic coil, and trip the breaker. One lead is Plus, and the other Negative, Always meter out you connections before powering up, always check, between each wire and Earth, it should be infinity, on your meter, set to OHMS.

Posted on May 06, 2010

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1.TURN THE POWER OFF TO YOUR STOVE! In most houses, the electric stove is on it's own circuit breaker. If you are in an older home, you're probably lucky you even have a stove...just kidding! If you had your kitchen updated, every electrician should have wired your stove to its own circuit breaker. Shut off the circuit breaker.
2.Remove all the burners and catch plates under them. You are going to lift the top of your stove up. Once you've done that, see what kind of receptacle you have. You'll now have to shop around to find the part. The local appliance store charged us way too much. Lowe's or Home Depot might not have your parts, or they might. Amazon might have your part and if they don't, they will direct you to someone that will. We could have saved half the purchase price if we'd gone there in the first place.
*A quick note* The receptacle is wired to the switches at the front of the stove. They complete the entire circuit, so that is the only thing you need to worry about--from the switch to the receptacle.
After the stove top is lifted, you will find another tray under it. If the wires from the receptacles go under the tray to the "on" switches at the front of
your stove, you'll have to lift this tray up as well. Remove the tray and any other panels you need to in order to get to the switches.
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4.Once you have hooked the receptacle ends to the switch harness, tie down the wires alongside the wire bundle until you get to the end.
5.Attach your burner receptacle to the aluminum clamp.
6.Attach your aluminum clamp to the stove top.
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1 Answer

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#12 wire ..... 20 amp breaker
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Please Vote !!

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1 Answer

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So this unit should be fine on a 15A breaker unless the breaker is bad, the wiring or a connection is loose somewhere between the breaker and the microwave, or the microwave's magnetron or high voltage transformer are failing and drawing extra current.

Microwaves should really be on the own separate breaker if at all possible. Plus, the more a breaker trips, the more work out it gets.

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A good power test for outlet and wiring integrity is a toaster, toaster oven, or hair dryer rated at about 1500 watts.

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If it passes this test, the problem is likely in the microwave.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

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