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Bat test failure - Powerware 9120 UPS System

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For the solution email me at montechristo_013@yahoo.com

Posted on Sep 24, 2010

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Why my s10 won't charge


Did you check wiring circuits to and from alternator? Are you doing any testing?
Is your battery in good shape, battery connections all good?
The alternator usually needs excite voltage or it won't charge. The alternator bat terminal is hot all the time even with key off, may be a faulty fusible link on that circuit, if it isn't hot?
Remanufactured parts have a high failure rate right out of the box. Yes, I do understand that a brand new part can be expensive.
What is model year?

Jun 13, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

New battery not charging after changing the alternator


First make sure both battery cables are free of corrosion and ground is secured to chassis and engine then check to see if theres an alt. fuse or bat. fuse blown. Another way to test charging sys w\out an meter is to remove the ground terminal from the bat. with the car running, if the alt. is good car stays running, if all else fails take the alt and bat to a parts store that will test them for free

Dec 14, 2013 | Chevrolet Venture Cars & Trucks

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How to reset engine light


pull off pos bat cable for approx. 1 minute then reinstall

Nov 08, 2013 | Dodge Challenger Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to check ignition coil for proper operation


  1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0 or nearly 0 ohms . If not replace the coil.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.
jturcotte_2418.gif





All tests included below.

The symptoms of a defective component within the HEI system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are:


Hard or No Starting Rough Idle Poor Fuel Economy Engine misses under load or while accelerating.
If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module.
Instruments designed specifically for testing HEI systems are available from several tool manufacturers. Some of these will even test the module itself. However, the tests given in this section will require only an ohmmeter and a voltmeter.

CAUTION The HEI ignition system can generate voltage of 30,000-50,000 volts. When testing the system, DO NOT hold a spark plug wire while the engine is running or cranking. Personal injury and or damage to the ignition system may result if this caution is not followed.
Since the only change between electronic and conventional ignition systems is in the distributor component area, it is imperative to check the secondary ignition circuit first. If the secondary circuit checks out properly, then the engine condition is probably not the fault of the ignition system.
If the engine won't start, perform this test. This will narrow the problem area down considerably.
  1. Remove one of the plug wires and insert a HEI spark tester tool in the plug socket.
  2. Ground the spark tester to the block and crank the engine. DO NOT touch the spark plug wire while the engine is cranking.
  3. The spark should be crisp and bright blue in color. If a normal spark occurs, try each spark plug wire until a no spark condition or a weak orange color spark is found. If all sparks are good, the problem is probably not in the ignition system. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs.

If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery (BAT) terminal in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the ON position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly. Go on to the distributor components test section.


If the engine runs, but runs roughly or cuts out, make sure the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious cracks or breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not pierce the wires with a probe.
If the plug wires are OK, remove the cap assembly and check for moisture, cracks, chips, carbon tracks, or any other high voltage leaks or failures. Replace the cap if any defects are found. Make sure the timer wheel rotates when the engine is cranked. If everything is all right so far, go on to the distributor components test section.
DISTRIBUTOR COMPONENTS TESTINGSee Figures 2 and 3
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
  1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0&omega or nearly 0&omega . If not replace the coil.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000&omega. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.

jturcotte_2419.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking coil resistance. Ohmmeter 1 shows primary test. Ohmmeter 2 shows secondary test.
These resistance checks will not disclose shorted coil windings. This condition can only be detected with scope analysis or a suitably designed coil tester. If these instruments are unavailable, replace the coil with a known good coil as a final coil test.

  1. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinite requires replacement of the pick-up coil.
  2. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 650 and 850&omega, or 500 and 1,500&omega on 1977 and later models. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test (early models). This will detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits.
  3. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the substitution test, replace it.

jturcotte_2420.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Pick-up coil testing

Oct 24, 2011 | 1989 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

How do you gain access and remove the battery on the 2006 lacerne and would this battery already need to be replaced?


they hide them in the front fender or under the hood in rear seat compartment or in the trunk where spare tire is you should test charging system then test bat sometimes recharge battery before testing and if everything is ok a bat drain test will give up the problem

Dec 31, 2010 | 2006 Buick Lucerne

1 Answer

3 beeps when i boot my pc with ram but no beeps when i boot without ram


Here is the info I found on the Asrock website. This would be a normal code if you have no RAM in the system.

Beep Code Descriptions 1 short Memory refresh timer error. 2 short Parity error. 3 short Main memory read / write test error. 4 short System timer failure. 5 short Process error. 6 short Keyboard controller BAT test error. 7 short General exception error. 8 short Display memory error. 9 short ROM BIOS checksum error. 10 short CMOS shutdown Read/Write error. 11 short Cache Memory bad.

Apr 14, 2010 | Asrock K7S41GX Motherboard

1 Answer

I need a wiring diagram for a 1996 chevy silverado. Something is draining my battery don't know what it is.


The best way I have found to find the draw on the bat. is to disconnect a bat. cable. hook a test light up in series between the bat. termanal and the bat. cable. If you have a draw the test light will glow, obviously the clock in the radio will cause the test light to luminate but it shouldn't be a very bright light. Go to your fuse box and start taking fuses out one at a time until the light goes out. This will tell you what curcuit the draw is on ,and will let you know what wireing diagram you need.

Jan 26, 2010 | 1983 Chevrolet Silverado

2 Answers

My 88 olds cutlass supreme FWD will not start. I have replaced the ignition module and ecm computer. I am getting fuel but no spark. The engine turns over fine.It just won't start. where do I go next?


If the engine won't start, perform a spark test as described earlier. This will narrow the problem area down considerably. If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery terminal (BAT) in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the on position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end at the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly.
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed. and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
  1. Connect a ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be less than 1 ohms.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite.

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Nov 13, 2009 | 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

New alternator and battery battery light stays on and car dies


Have you checked the alternator fuse? The regulator needs power from the fuse to turn on the alternator. The old alternator could have blown the fuse.

Apr 01, 2009 | 1988 Honda Accord 4 Door

2 Answers

9120 battery failure


sometimes the battery tester is not enough to check the battery. battery also prone to tear and wear.because of charging ang discharging. replace the battery

Feb 05, 2008 | Powerware 9120 UPS System

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