Question about Hobart AM14-253 Free-standing Dishwasher

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Hobart AM14/1 free standing dishwasher with booster. Booster will not heat up beyond 41C. All three heating elements check ok with Ohm meter. High limit not tripped. Temperature screw up at maximum, when you turn the screw, you can hear thermostat click at lower temperature on and off. When turning on main power for dishwasher, heater in dishwasher works fine, but no relays click in the booster tank area. Have not checked for power at booster, have checked all fuses with meter and are ok. Please help.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: lx30h hobart dw. booster will not turn on. element

The booster heat control circuit is controlled by the relay board. Visually check for loose or burnt relay contacts...
You will see the booster LED light when it calls for heat. Some newer machines have a second high limit on the right hand side of the booster tank.
It may be your control board is configured for low temp with no booster. When you power up, the display should say LX30H. If not
Pull open the upper drawer, place a magnet over the door interlock switch.

CAUTION, 220 volt power is present. be carefull what you touch.

on control board, short J5-1 and J5-2, then power up. You are in factory setup. press select on the control board to see each option on the front panel., press up arrow on control board to step up through options for each step. when done, press the off button on front panel. remove short and start up normally. With the magnet in place, AND THE DOOR CLOSED, run the machine and observe the relay board status lights.
If you want to adjust the temp set points, with the machine off, press and hold the hidden key behind the front panel logo, and press select on the control board.. Or on power up, hold the wask key..Same to adjust options as above. Press off to exit.

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

  • 44 Answers

SOURCE: Good morning, I have 01 Hobart dishwasher AM14, i

294692 for the rinse probe.
"temperature sensor for booster heater"? Do you mean the thermostat? If so, part number is 274161.

Parts breakdowns and part numbers are available at www.hobartservice.com. Click "Parts" on the left, then click "Hobart SmartParts System" on the next page. You'll be asked a series of questions to identify your piece of equipment, and then you'll get a parts list and have links to parts breakdowns for various sections of the machine.

Posted on Dec 16, 2010

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There are one or two hi-limit relays on the booster. One is on the front and if there is a second one, it is on the right hand side as you face the front of the unit. They are both manully have to be reset if tripped. Check them and also the booster's contacter

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How long does it stay in the wash cycle? Indefinitely? Does the display continuously show "WASH"?. If it stays in the wash cycle indefinitely (i.e. continuously shows "WASH" for significantly beyond approx. 3 minutes), it's probably a control board malfunction. If it continues to wash after the "WASH" indicator goes out, it could be a shorted wash motor relay on the relay board or a fauly control board.

If the internal rinse water booster heater doesn't reach it's programmed setpoint temperature in time, the dishwasher will run an extended wash cycle to give the booster heater more time to finish heating the rinse water. If this is what's happening, the wash cycle would last approximately 3 minutes, then it would rinse regardless of whether the booster heater has finished heating or not.

The booster temperature thermistor may be bad, giving a false booster temperature reading, causing an extended wash cycle as described above. The booster heater elements or contactor may be bad, preventing the booster heater from heating and reaching proper temperature, also causing the same extended wash cycle to give the booster more time to heat.

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All Hobart dishwashers will have a wash tank heating element, but the rinse water is not heated by the dishwasher, unless it has a built-in booster heater. Usually a separate booster heater is used to heat rinse water to 180-190 deg. F for hot water sanitation.

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No heat on rinse cycle HOBART AM14C Dishwasher


3 Con, is the booster heat contactor. If it is chattering, the fault will be in the booster. There are a few different boosters in the AM14. can you post the ML number from the data plate, or describe if the booster is a square Hatco HCM-10, or a round stainless booster with a 13 kw multi wired element.. All boosters use a low water cut off circuit, a high limit thermostat and a control thermostat. The old Hatcobooster uses mechanicqal components, where the new rount tank uses probes and a control board. The board has 3 leds. red is calling for heat, yellow is open thermistor, and green is shorted thermistor.
AM14's had a variety of different control circuit voltages, ranging from 240/208/120 and 24 volt AC. Check the transformer secondary for correct output to controls, trace through circuit until voltage pulses. If new style, it could be just scaled up probes not reading water. Drain the tank with the power off before removing probes.

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1 Answer

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145 degree is just your hot water temp and that your dishwasher hot water booster is not working assuming that this machine has worked in the past to produce final rinse water above 180 degrees. Remove the bottom panel and to the right you will see the booster tank, look for a nickel size component with a small red button on it. Try pushing on it to reset it. If that does not work, check for voltage at your heating element on your booster tank. (the thicker wires) If voltage is present then your heating elements need replacing.

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1 Answer

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If elements exploded, you replace them, and you don't have heat, you need a meter.

But the obvious things you can do -- check the high limit (little red button on lower front panel, behind a plate)

Otherwise you'll need a meter to check continuity for each thermostat (control/high limit), the coil on the contactor, the probe for low water cut-off, and voltage inputs and outputs to the low water cut-off board. Also there is the transformer to check.

The only way to test the thermostats without a meter is to jumper a wire across the terminals. This has some real personal dangers. Turn off the breaker, CREATE a jumper and attach it. Do not attempt to hand hold a jumper wire. WAY TOO DANGEROUS.

If you need help with any particular test, and you have a meter, I can help you out. Good luck - Mike

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