Problem for Car Speakers and Subwoofers
Generic problem for all Car Speakers and Subwoofers
My speakers dont sound
hi my name is henry i have a nissan altima 99, i have an indash jensen dvd player. everything was working till one day my speakers stoped sounding everything else is working fine but i just dont hear anything
Same Problem
Apr 23, 2009
- car speakers stoped working got loud cut out got loud again cut out for good no amp factory
- Guest
Solution #1
posted on Mar 28, 2008
Rank: Guru
Rating: 88%, 208 votes
If you have an amp in your system, I would check the preamp connections, as well as the +12V power, remote, and ground connections to the amp. It's possible the amp is not turning on or the RCA preamp wires got disconnected.
If there is no amp involved, the connector that connects the speaker wires to the head unit may be loose or some sort of "mute" may have been inadvertently enabled.
Popular Solutions for Car Speakers and Subwoofers
Kicker Solo-Baric L7 S15L72 Car Subwoofer
1 Solution
Audio Pro 15PLB76 15 Inch 800 Watt Woofer Car Speaker
1 Solution
Questions and Unsolved Problems for Car Speakers and Subwoofers
if u want a deep loud base sound and clear what woffers and door speakers.
what is the best 12 inch earthquake speaker (subwoffer)
i need help wiring a sub to a ripspeed dvd-730 cd player.because it has to aux-in wires but 1 sub...
(More)
i need help wiring a sub to a ripspeed dvd-730 cd player.because it has to aux-in wires but 1 sub out wire.
i want to install an 1000 watts amp to my car stereo. But i want to see a diagram of the wiring of...
(More)
i want to install an 1000 watts amp to my car stereo. But i want to see a diagram of the wiring of the car stereo.
I get cold air from the driver side vents and luke warm air from the passenger side vents when I try...
(More)
I get cold air from the driver side vents and luke warm air from the passenger side vents when I try to heat my 2003 Ram 1500. I've read almost all of the 315 posts to this site about blend doors. I've taken the dash out, down to the point where I can somewhat check all four actuator motors and flapper/blender doors. The only motor I didn't physically remove was the one that you have to cut out the metal framework, but I could see movement of the small doors that open the air to the foot/floor warming vent by using a flashlight and looking into the vents near the floor of the center console. Examining the four actuators and doors as best that I could, here are the results (the four actuator motors are labeled with a white sticker on the wire leading to them): Actuator Recirculation Motor (on the far right of the unit) - Moves the large recirculation door that I can see and feel by removing the recirculation fan on the passenger side.- mine operates properly by changing from a Max setting to any standard setting for the area desired to be heated or cooled (switch on the far right of the three climate control switches) I can actually view the door moving and it is intact. Actuator Driver (second actuator motor from right side that operates two doors in unison) - Motor operates properly when selecting the middle climate control switch to either hotter or colder. The actuator rotates properly with switch movement. I disconnected the metal connector that operates the two flapper/blender doors in unison, and both doors appear to feel normal but I cannot visually see them. Actuator Mode 1 - I was able to remove the actuator motor and it rotated properly when the correct console switch was moved (can't remember which one). By moving it with my hand, I was able to turn the white mechanism that the switch controls, and feel that the door seemed normal and that the limit stops were working properly. I could also determine, that by manually moving the door while the blower was on, the air would change direction to the correct area. Actuator Mode 2 - I cannot access the motor to remove it since it is behind the metal framework that the repair video says would need to be cut out, but by looking into the floor area vents with a flashlight, both doors seem to move properly when going from floor selections to defrost selections on the middle console switch. Both of the hoses to the heater core feel warm when I checked them from the engine compartment at the point they enter the firewall. There is also a proper level of radiator coolant/antifreeze and the Air Conditioning cools just fine on a hot day. I still cannot determine why I would be getting warm air from the passenger side and cold air from the driver's side. Please help.
