Question about Garland H283 Gas Kitchen Range

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Finding Parts for an old, gas, Garland Stove

I recently acquired an old Garland stove and can't locate parts for it. The info given under the burner is "Detroit Michigan Stove Co., No. C39239H. It is almost 40" wide with four gas burners on one side, and enamel on the other. It also has a light, timer and salt and pepper shaker on it. There is an enameled lid that folds up to uncover the four burners. The oven is on the right side with the broiler under that. On the left side are the control knobs, with two drawers underneath. It's in excellent condition! I need a conversion kit from natural gas to LP. I would also be interested in replacing the knobs and handles. They're quite brittle. Can anyone help!?! Thank you!

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

textonor
  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: GE PROFILE RANGE TOP

psnowden this can happen. If I remember correctly GE is using a Hi Temp paint, not porclean, on this range. And if they are using porclean, it is a thin coating. With current ranges the cooking oil gets into the finish and runs the heat up causing the finish to lift. The is espically true with white. The gentlest clean will in time not stop this from happening. You can get some hi temp touch up paint to make it look better, however it will keep doing this, espically on the burners you use the most.

Posted on Feb 04, 2008

  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: Ovens won't work.. pilot safeties keep dying..

Hi, just wanted to ask, are you sure the safety valves are bad? seems strange that 2 would go bad like that. I have seen thermocouples ( $7 to $12 ) improperly installed,routed, not an OEM part,dirty pilots, affect them alot more often than a bad safety ($150 to $250). There is no baffle plate behind the safety, however, if mounted properly, it should be well out of any heat range that would be causing any problems. Are you sure it isn't "front venting" ? meaning the exhaust, or part of it, has to escape out of the front of the unit, causing it to overheat? this can be caused by a few things, something blocking,covering,in the flue. Your gas pressure too high, or no regulator at all, sooting, clogged orfice causing gas to burn in the burner, alignment of orfice to burner, etc.. Hope all that helps, let us know :)

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

vetteman3002
  • 2299 Answers

SOURCE: We have a Garland commercial

You can clean the parts all with regular dish soap. The oven you can use Easy-Off oven cleaner. And the stainless parts you can get stainless steel cleaner at any grocery store.

Posted on Sep 22, 2010

dcramer531
  • 1654 Answers

SOURCE: I have a commercial garland

The model of this stove is


Model G60-6R24RR
There are slightly different versions and they have some small differences but the guts will all be the same parts. Here are the other versions.

G60-6R24SS
6 Open Burners, 24" Raised Griddle/Broiler w/ Double Storage Base

G60-6R24RR1
6 Open Burners, 24" Raised Griddle/Broiler w/ (2) Standard Ovens

G60-6R24RS1
6 Open Burners, 24" Raised Griddle/Broiler w/ (1) Standard Ovens & Storage Base
I can't help you with a local dealer or repair but here are some links to the stores that carry parts.
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/
just go to the site and look under equipment parts and then thermostatic controls. And dig of your part there.
Or try here, http://www.partstown.com/
http://www.etundra.com/
http://www.tmeinc.biz/xgarland.htm
This last link will take you to the thermosta itself, just click on the first thread on the page.

Posted on Aug 05, 2011

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If the problem is with all the burners then the igniter module may be defective. If this is happening only with some burners then the cable to the ignition point has become loose or is shorting with the body.

I am assuming the model number is correct but I am not finding any details for this 24 inch freestanding gas range. If the oven is electric and if it is running that means at least the electric power is reaching the unit.

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I will soon need to convert a 1993(?) CALORIC Kitchen Range back to Natural Gas from LP. When I installed it, NG was not available, so the propane company guys converted it to LP. I was not here to learn...


First check the regulator valve on the back of the stove. Chances are it is a dual purpose valve and once you are ready to do the converstion.. you simply will move the lever or change the setting from LP to NAT.(obvisouly before proceeding you need to have the fuel supply turned off to the appliance)

Next check under the range lid or on the back of the stove for the spare NATural gas orifices.. when they changed it out for you there were two scenarios.. the range (most do) came with a set of LP orifices..and they simply changed these out on each burner supply including brolier/oven. (orifices are interchangeable nozzles that are threaded into the supply gas burner)

If they had to swap out the regulator chances are they would have given you the one that came with your stove.. However I am fairly sure the regulator is a dual purpose and you simply need to change the setting from LP to NAT.

DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT CHANGING OUT THE ORIFICES FIRST.

If you cannot locate the spare orifices/spud/nozzles (they are called all of these) on the stove itself you will need to buy a set. A good appliance parts store will be able to help you with these.. again.. you will need one for each burner/burner supply.

If you can locate the range manual it will have instructions on how to do this.

Chances are your Natural Gas company will be able to help you with this.. especially if the regulator is dual purpose.. even if you can't find the orifices they are inexpensive.. fairly standard and easy to acquire. Usually just called a "conversion kit".. it will just consist of four or five small threaded 5/16 brass nozzles/orifices.
The installation is pretty straightforward. Again..a good appliance parts store may recommend a service company...and if your not familiar with diy repairs on a gas appliance.. a 50 to 100 dollar service call is well worth the money.

Best of luck to you!

Apr 11, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

I have a Garland Stove and Oven. The oven is not working right.


Hi there, most of the newer unit parts are available still, but not seeing it makes it hard to guarantee. I would advise calling a Factory Authorized Servicer in your area, having a problem with gas entering the oven, and not igniting is a serious problem, and it sounds like the pilot is lit in the oven, but could be malfunctioning.
Here is the telephone for Garland: Tel: 1.800.424.2411.
They can recommend someone in your area, or check your local phone book, for Restaurant repair companies, and contact them.
Hope that helps, and thank you.

Feb 04, 2009 | Garland H283 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Garland oven does not work


Hi, it is hard to tell for sure, but it sounds like your safety device, the component that keeps the pilot lit, may have failed, allowing gas to the pilot, but not letting gas through to the burner. See your manual on/off valve lets gas to the thermostat, then through the thermostat down to the safety, because you wouldn't want gas to get past there if there is no pilot, and now that part is stuck open, but the rest of the part is not engaged to open and let gas continue to the burner. There is an easy way to tell, under the bottom panel, is a part with a red button ( the safety ) and connected to it is a copper looking tube, or the thermocouple, it can be disconnected by unscrewing it from the safety with a wrench, if the pilot goes out, your safety is mostly working, if not, it is bad, and needs replacement. Let me know, hope that help, and thank you.

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Use a needle right where the pilot flame comes out. Should do the trick. GOODLUCK!!

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We use a Garland from the 1960's and pilot lights ARE scary and should make you nervous. This is why they are no longer allowed in new gas ranges. I mounted an inline gas shut off to the stove where the gas enters (on mine this is right in front on the left side). It turns on and off like a burner and when we are done cooking we simply shut off the gas there. To light the burners or the stove I use one of those long reach lighters. I go to bed knowing that NO gas is coming in.
We love the stove, it makes cooking more fun.
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STOVE TOP CONTINUOSLY SPARKS


Thrasher, Sorry I cant help with the diagram but one of your burner switches is grounding out. Each burner valve has a switch and one of them is finding it's way to ground, therefor the contstant clicking. Good luck on this deal...Catriver..post back.

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