Question about Frigidaire FER311FS Electric Dryer
Check the heating element to see if burnt or broken. Check fuse in breaker box first. Reset switch. The element is seperate from the motor power. Hope this may help and maybe save money as well.
Posted on May 05, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There's only a couple of things that will cause the problem you just described. A broken dryer belt, or a defective drive motor. However, most drive motors are equipped with a centrifugal switch that closes when the motor turns. Without this switch closed, the heating circuits would not energize. So...I would recommend you check to see if your dryer belt has broken. If you can post back with comments on BRAND name and MODEL number (located along the inside of the door opening somewhere, or on the back of the console) I can give you advice on how to repair this yourself. Let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Nov 12, 2007
yes it is the belt,what make and model number(inside dryer door or on it,let me know and we can go from there-mike
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
SOURCE: Dryer does not heat up.
The following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, generally, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
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