Power source is good to control board however, it remains blacked out. no led light, nothing. Light comes on at the door when opened. wondering if that may be my only problem, wife stated that she smelled an burning odor when doing a load, before it died(when it died).
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Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis. http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/
To some model sets; especially LED back-lighted types; the back-light inverter circuit will be part of the main power supply board [SMPS]. In such cases, the power supply board might need replacement. To some models sets, the back-light inverter and SMPS section circuit will be integrated at its main board itself. If so; the main board should be replaced. To some models of sets, all these section circuit will be integrated at its main board. If this is the case, you have to replace the main board.
Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
To some model sets; especially LED back-lighted types; the back-light inverter circuit will be part of the main power supply board [SMPS]. In such cases, the power supply board might need replacement.
Hey If you have tried Using remote and side pannels Have you tried another TV to see if its the Cable? Also The clicking sound is normal its the TV's Power-source starting. The fan light I am not sure of but if it happens every-time it should be normal. If the screen gets warm Instantly (Hotish) Then you TV is dead D:
62-24084-02 LED CODES
POWER LED - GREEN
ON - Normal
OFF - No power to board
OK LED - GREEN
One Blink - One hour retry delay
Two Blinks - Pressure switch failure (remains open)
Three Blinks - Limit switch fault
Four Blinks - Pressure switch failure (remains closed)
Five Blinks - Twinning fault
FLAME LED - YELLOW
ON - Good flame
Rapid Blink - Flame present with gas valve de-energizing
Slow Blink - Marginal flame
Take the door apart and look at the back side of the electronic board. There should be a red LED lit (near center of board) if there is power to the board. If power to the board and no light; replace board. If no power (and of course no light) check door switches and also check that the wires are not imbedded in the insulating mastic inside the door. On older models, there is only black mastic insulation, and it can soften, allowing wires to become imbedded in it, which can start disolving the insulation on the wires, causing shorts or breaks in wires. Seperate wires from mastic, use a little fiberglass insulation so they won't get back in it, and fix any bad wires. (newer models use a gray insulating blanket, older models do not)
Check and make sure you have proper voltage at the plug, reset yoru breaker. Also are the led indicators dim (lights) on the interface board. Watch your terminology as there is a control board but it has no lights on it. Id hate to see you order a control board when you need an interface board. Well if the leds are dim then remove top and reseat all ribbon cables 4 each on the interface board and the control board. then turn it back on and see if it works. If not replace interface board then the control board in that order.