Question about LG LFC23760ST Side by Side Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You have a refrigerant loop that runs through the cabinet of the refrigerator and usually runs right under the door gasket seal. Usually, when you are getting too hot on the loop, it is because your refrigerator cannot shed the heat it is removing from inside the refrigerator. This is most likely caused my either a dirty condenser unit or a faulty condenser cooling fan. (both located underneath the unit). The fan should be running anytime the compressor is running.
Posted on Oct 14, 2008
SOURCE: Roaring sound
I have had the same issues. I have owned my LFX25960 for 18 months. All the cooling, noise, and condensation problems are related to 2 fans. One for the freezer/refrigerator compartments and One for the Ice Maker. The fans, apparently, are not sufficient to move enough air through the coils located behind a plastic panel in the freezer compartment. The part numbers for my fans are 1. Ice Maker 4681JB1029E and Refrig/Freezer 4681JK1004E. It is not impossible, but fairly difficult to replace them yourself. You have to remove the large slide out freezer drawer and glides. Then work the back freezer panel loose from the bottom. Be careful not to break it. It is plastic.
Routine maintenance: Pull the refrig out from the wall and blow-out the coils and fan located on the lower right rear. You might find it easier to do this by removing the cover on the lower, back of the refrig.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
The sound you hear is the Freezer Fan, this problem is hard to diagnose, because the fan spins but not fast enough to circulate chilled air thru the freezer and refrigerator. The minimum labor and material cost for the repair/replacement is around $300.00. But if you chose to make the repair yourself the motor alone costs around $firstname.lastname@example.org. But the repair is very labor because the electrical connection for this fan is at the rear of the unit
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
The profile uses a motherboard instead of a defrost timer. you can remove the evaporator cover and you will see a glass defrost heater at the bottom and a white sensor and a defrost thermostat at the top of the coil. you can ohm out the thermostat and the heater. If the white sensors have a round end instead of a flat end replace any way.
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
The area you are describing is the breaker panel, inside is a heater called a mullion. The purpose of this heater is to control any moisture that may form due to the temp difference (Dew Point) inside and out. This excessive heat you are noticing is a for-warning of bad things to come (compressor damage, spoiled food). The most common reason is not keeping the condenser (different types, designs and locations depending on make and model) clean. Recommend inspect and service every 4 - 6 months. A condenser brush (looks like a over sized bottle brush) and a vacuum with a wand is used. If never done before, service front and back, mybe power clean with reverse blowing vacuum after getting the heavy stuff out. After cleaning, give 24 hours, if no major damage to compressor or condenser fan motor, the system should return to normal, breaker panel will cool to average 10 - 15 dgs above ambiant. Other issues that it could be; weak compressor, bad - intermittantly operating condenser fan, doors intermittantly left ajar, bad - low RPM evap fan motor, cavity lights on when doors closed.
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
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