Question about Intermatic & Indoor/Outdoor Rain Tight Timer

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Swimming pool time clock face doesn't move

Does not rotate. Has 240v going in and 240v coming out.

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The timer has internal switches that you connect the input and output to . That is the NO, C , NC set of contacts. It also has a set of terminals for the clock, usually the first terminals on the left. Before connecting a feed to the clock, confirm the voltage rating for the timer. the clock voltage may be different than the contact voltage.

Posted on May 06, 2010

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Paragon 8145-20 would not go in defrost


http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#8145
If dial is rotating and keeping good time each day, then Trippers might be bad?
Test across terminals 1 and N for 240Volt... if you are not getting 240V, the flip breaker fully off and then fully on. Test for 240V again.
Temporarily disconnect wire on terminal 4, and then temporarily move wire on Terminal 3 to Terminal 1 and see if your defrost heater is working. Heater might be bad.
Disconnect wire on terminal X and see if timer resets.
Buy new timer

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Oct 09, 2014 | Paragon 8145-20 Defrost Timer

1 Answer

Timer doesn`t work,doesn`t rotate.


If this is an electromechanical timer and the dial will not rotate, you can be pretty sure the timer motor is no good

May 21, 2013 | UPM 120V/240V Heavy Duty Outdoor...

1 Answer

I have a hager eh 110 time switch on my pool and I cant set it. Any clues?


Hagar EH 10 is 230V analog time switch.
EH010 is 1" wide.

1) See large image of EH010
http://www.bewdirect.co.uk/home/m/Shop/id/3985/page/1/

2) See large image that explains how to set EH-010
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/EH-010-image-1000.jpg

3) With analog timers, there is a movable dial that rotates with fingers.
Pins or segments are located around edge of dial.
Segments are moved one direction or the other to set on-off times.
After segments are set, the dial is rotated to match current time.
The dial rotates as time passes, and segments move a switch that opens and closes electric circuit.

4) EH-010 is different.
Usually analog dial is located on face of timer like a clock face.
However EH-010 is only 1" wide, so dial is perpendicular to front of timer and is rotated with thumb.

5) I suggest setting a few segments one direction or the other and then manually rotate dial full circle to watch when pool equipment turns on-off.
This will tell you if segments should be set right or left.
I have not seen this particular timer, but it appears as if times on printed on edge of timer dial.

6) Timer has 240V clock motor.
So Hot line wires from circuit breaker connect to terminals 1 and 2.
This powers clock motor so dial rotates as time passes.

240V Line and 240V Load wires are connected as shown in image below:
geno_3245_275.jpg

Feb 10, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I hooked up a new T104 timer and the manual works but its not clicking on and off when it is supposed to or at all. are you suppposed to have the turn dial in a certain position or what


1) The dial should rotate as time passes.
Set trippers on dial at times you want timer to turn on-off.
To set current time: Pull out yellow dial and rotate dial until current time lines up with silver pointer located at 6 o'clock position.

2) If manual override turns Load on-off but dial doesn't rotate continuously, then you have incorrect wiring.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
Most common mistake is confusing Load wires (wires going to light,fan, motor, pump) with Line wires coming from breaker box.

3) Another possibility is that you have wrong timer: T104 has 240V clock motor.
If your circuit has 120V instead of 240, then clock motor will not rotate dial.
You might need to exchange timer for T101 or T103 timer (see wiring for these timers on link above)

4) How box timers work.
Clock motor rotates dial.
Trippers on dial push lever back and forth.
Lever moves copper contacts that open and close circuit

geno_3245_272.jpg

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 10, 2011 | Intermatic T104 24h 208-277v Mechanical...

1 Answer

Have sta kleen 805 , have power,240 v no hot water


If I understand correctly, your water heater circuit tested for 240 Volts.

1) If circuit has power on one leg of the 240V circuit, water heater can appear to have electricity, but won't turn on since 240V needs both legs to complete the 240V circuit. Solution: test for 240 across top two screws on upper thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

2) ECO reset button tripped on upper thermostat. Solution, push in reset button. If reset will not reset, then replace upper thermostat. I usually replace both upper and lower thermostats at same time: cost $28. Buy parts from home center or hardware store. Be sure to put factory-insulation and covers back so thermostat is not exposed to cooler outside temperatures, that cause hotter water than set point.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

3) If ECO reset button keeps tripping, then keep resetting until you can test water heater parts. Spend 30 minutes and do complete troubleshoot on tank.
Buy cheap multi-meter from home center. When test calls for checking voltage, rotate dial to 240-250-277 VAC. When test calls for checking continuity or elements, rotate dial to Ohms (upside down horseshoe is ohms).
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Dec 29, 2010 | RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER

1 Answer

I have replaced the bottom element,and now i have no hot water. I check with a meter and have power to the top element but not the bottom one.


First of all, you have 240V water heater because tank has two elements.
You have no hot water, and tank has power to upper element.
Lower element has no power.

Something doesn't sound right.
You're not testing correctly.

Before doing anything, test across top two screws of upper element for 240Volts.
This will eliminate electrical problem as suspect.
Breaker must deliver 120V on both legs to complete the 240V circuit.
Every single-phase household circuit takes 2 wires to complete the circuit.
With 120V you need 1 neutral wire and 1 hot wire to complete circuit.
With 240V you need 2 hot wires, one from each hot busbar, to complete circuit.
Your water heater can appear to have electricity if breaker is delivering power on one leg of the 240V circuit.
To check breaker for sure, move wires to another similar size breaker to see if water heater functions properly.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

If 240V circuit is good, then next thing is take 30 minutes and do full test of water heater parts.
This will identify exact problem(s) without guessing.
Buy 5$ multimeter from Home Depot. Install battery.
When test calls for continuity, rotate dial to Ohms (upside down horseshoe is ohms).
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate dial to 240-250-277 VAC
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more help.

Dec 28, 2010 | Rheem Water Heaters

1 Answer

The T104p3 timer is getting power but the clock won't turn and the manual switch also doesn't work. we had a power outage, and the timer has not worked since then.


If I understand correctly, your T104 240Volt Intermatic timer worked fine before.
Now the clock will not rotate.
The manual switch doesn't operate the load.

You checked for electricity.
But did you check for 240 Volts across terminals 1 and 3?
It sounds like the circuit breaker is tripped off on one leg so circuit has 120V and tests positive for power, but not 240V.
Reset breaker all the way over and then click breaker back.

Back to the timer.
If you test electricity at terminal 1 to ground and it reads 120V, that means timer is receiving power from one leg of the 240 circuit.
If you test terminal 3 to ground and it reads 120V, that means same as above.
But unless you test for 240V across terminals 1 and 3, the tests above mean nothing.

Let's understand 240V circuit.
You know all single-phase household circuits require two wires to complete the circuit.
Same is true for 120V and 240V circuits >> each needs two wires to complete the circuit.
Inside the main breaker box are 3 busbars.
There are 2 hot busbars and 1 neutral busbar.
120V circuit is complete with 1 hot wire from either hot busbar and 1 neutral from neutral busbar
240V circuit is complete with 1 hot wire from one hot busbar and 1 hot wire from other hot busbar.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

The 240V circuit breaker snaps down over both hot busbars, and then 2 wires come out of that breaker and go to 240V appliance, or to T104 timer terminals 1 and 3.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

If circuit breaker is not delivering on both those hot wires, then all along the way you can test for electricity and test will show 120V but not 240V.
So it appears as though circuit has electricity, but circuit will not operate until both hot wires are available to complete the circuit.

That's why you test for 240Volt across terminals 1 and 3
And also test for 240Volt across both wires at circuit breaker.

Going back to timer.
Unless there was lightning strike that fried insides of timer, but somehow left everything else untouched, the manual override should work if circuit has 240V, and Load (lights, motor, fan) is operable.

A simple test is to move circuit breaker wires to another 240Volt breaker and see if timer works again.
If breaker will not reset, you will have to replace 240 circuit breaker, or add a subpanel if your busbars are burned and broken.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html

Dec 18, 2010 | Intermatic & Indoor/Outdoor Rain Tight...

1 Answer

Power is good going into the timer but the timer is not running. I am wondering if there is a fuse that needs to be changed or a reset switch? The timer has been replaced in the last year.


If I understand correctly, you have T-104 240V timer.
Timer was running fine before, and recently stopped working.
If this is not your timer, add a comment.

1) Click manual override back and forth to see if Load turns on-off.
If Load does not turn on-off, then check power at Load.
Timer has 5 terminals A 1 2 3 4
Check terminals 2 and 4 for 240Volts when Load is ON

2) Check terminals 1 and 3 for 240Volts to make sure timer has full 240V and breaker is not tripped OFF on one leg. If timer has 120V, it appears to have voltage, but clock will not rotate and Load will not turn on-off. Check breaker for 240V across both screws.

3) Is dial rotating?
If dial is not rotating or is stuck in place, replace 208-277V clock motor.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/timer-accessories/timers/electrical/ecatalog/N-8hi
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INTERMATIC-Time-Clock-Motor-1PNK2?Pid=search

4) If dial is rotating, but trippers don't flip on-off lever, then trippers may be worn down. Buy new trippers.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INTERMATIC-Timer-Tripper-2E054?Pid=search

5) How to wire T104 timer
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

How timer works
:
Clock motor rotates dial.
ON-OFF trippers on dial contact lever.
ON tripper pushes lever one direction.
OFF tripper pushes lever other direction.
Lever moves electrical contacts together, or pulls contacts apart.
When lever moves on-off, manual override lever also snaps back and forth with audible clicking sound.

geno_3245_109.jpg

Nov 24, 2010 | Intermatic T104 24h 208-277v Mechanical...

1 Answer

No power to box. TEST switch seems to be jammed as well. No breaker switches are tripped. Any help would be fantastic! Thanx!


T-104R is raintight 240V timer.

1) No power to box:
a) Test timer for voltage: test screw terminal1 and screw terminal2 to bare copper wire to see if there is some voltage. See T-104 wiring.
b) Your 240V breaker can be loose on the busbar, and not be tripped. Jiggle it a bit and see if you hear crackling. Click the breaker switch all the way over and then snap it back.
c) The 240V breaker can have one wire loose, so only 120V arrives at timer.
In this case, the timer voltage can appear dead on some terminals, or live on some terminals, but the 240V clock motor inside timer and 240V Load will not work.
d) The loss of power is one thing, but a power loss will not jam the manual override on your timer unless there was some high-voltage event like a lightning strike.

2) Test switch jammed ... that must mean manual override is jammed
Lift and rotate dial so trippers are away from on-off lever, then try manual override again. If manual override was just stuck on a tripper, you need a new T-100 series 240V clock motor. It requires a small star-screwdriver to change clock.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INTERMATIC-Time-Clock-Motor-1PNK2?Pid=search

3) If the manual override is bad, then timer is bad. Buy a new T-104 timer mechanism and install the mechanism without changing boxes. All T-104 timer mechanisms will snap into any other T-104 box.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INTERMATIC-Dial-Timer-Mechanism-2E353?Pid=search

44e2f96.jpg

If this doesn't get you going, add a comment at bottom of page, and it will automatically send me an e-mail and then I will help further.

Oct 26, 2010 | Intermatic T104R 208-277Volt 40-amp Timer...

1 Answer

Drum won't turn


HAVE you tried turning it by hand? many times when you hear an electrical buzz coming from the machine and it still isnt turning, then it is either a motor going out, or your wall socket and or wiring is no longer cutting it. May times when a machine is ran on insufficient power it will work fine for a while, but eventually the motor will begin to burn itself up because the voltage peeks are only half that on a regular socket as compared to those connected to a breaker designed to run 240v equipment.
SO, if you do hear a buzzing sound, and rotating the drum by hand gets it going, (sometimes it will take a few minutes to get it to full speed) then you definately have too few AMPs going to your unit. Immediatly check the breaker box for the breaker controlling that part of the home. The breaker should atleast have two switches on it and be the size of two of the smallest breakers in your breaker box. (to get a good look, once you open the breaker box, there is another panel that lies flush with the breakers, remove it)

the breaker should look like this or it will be doubled up, where as the two outside wires should put out 240v

GOOD LUCK AND PLS RATE THIS POST!!!!! :D

Jun 03, 2010 | KitchenAid KEYS750LQ Electric Dryer

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