Question about Toshiba 56HM195 56" Projection HDTV
There were 3 Reasons mentioned for the same for this Model and seen Frequently :-
1. Color Wheel - This is a Major Reason for the same. More often, whenever you would ON the TV, you would see Hear Humming or Ticking Sound.
2. This could be die to Power Supply Board. When the Part gets Hot, it could start to Fail and these Symptoms are Common. There are Certain IC's and Fuses, if Failed ( By Heat ) could Cause Flickering of Color or Loss of Color. You need to Check for Failed IC's.
3. Screen Panel is BAD. This is the Unfortunate Loss of Screen Panel. But, this is Very Rarely Seen on this Model.
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Posted on May 05, 2010
Above is a service and training manual, this is what i use to teach engineers to service and repair these items... Your fault, is one, whereby, a component(s), is close to catastrophic failure, and the set is sensing, this increased current draw, and is shutting down, the Switchmode power Supply, to avoid, a fire, and explosion, or both, after it shuts down, the part cools, whatever, the "Fault" "Clears" and the set will startup up again, over and over, until eventual complete failure of the component(s), concerned fail. IF you wish to try to fix it yourself, and I do not recommend it. FIRST, you Must get a service manual, then you need, equipment, an Oscilloscope is a MUST HAVE. (It may be possible to do without?) Also a Multimeter, and soldering iron, a DE-soldering station, an anti-static wrist strap, (Any TV is extremely static sensitive). Now FIRST you must make sure the Power supply is 100% as if this is NOT then nothing else can be. Also there are safety considerations, any unit that can cause a Fire or Explosion, or both, needs to be attended to with the utmost care. As if it isn't done correctly, a catastrophe is indeed possible, Faulty sets can cause a fire, and a fire in the middle of the night, I believe is not good. And any person that has attended that set, will be held to account. Now with that understanding, I guess proceed if you wish. Troubleshooting say if it is shutting down, after a certain amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. Now just replacing boards will most likely just end up with more faulty, boards, as related you MUST ensure that you have the cause of the event, before we change anything. I have seen so called, "Techs" replace every board, and virtually every component, and that STILL didn't fix it, because the "Fault, or Cause" lay elsewhere, and had not be repaired FIRST, you see that FIRST STEP, like everything in life, is, CRITICAL.
Now if you feel that it you do not want to do it. It is my professional advice is to get you set looked at by a Toshiba Authorised Service Centre, and ask for free "Quote", this way, you will be able to make an informed judgment, as to repair or replace. As these days seemingly insignificant SYMPTOMS, often cost as much to repair as it may cost to buy.
Posted on May 05, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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