Question about Televison & Video
Are you referring to the 2 ohm resistor that is in series to the B+ of
the Flyback ?
If the lines is not slanting, then it is most probably a fault on
the Vertical Circuits, Start by replacing the 100uF capacitor
or 47 uF on some that is very near the Vert Out.IC, resolder
also the pins.
But if it is slanting then probably it is a misadjusted G2 voltage
or Screen Voltage. Have it lowered.
Check the B+ voltage it should not be more than +135V
If the B+ is about 77V before it turns off then most probably it is
Have a check also on the capacitor on the B+ line going to
the Horizontal circuits.
Posted on May 12, 2010
That sounds like a protector failure. Can you please verify the model number? Its probably the serial number that you have mentioned. If you can get me the size of the set and the unit type(DLP, CRT or LCD projector type) then I can help you with locating the serial number.
Posted on May 19, 2010
OK please, download use these Service training manuals so you can troubleshoot your set. You FIRST need to find out WHY< that 2 OHM resistor needed replacement, there must be a fairly serious, problem, may in PSU, that can cause a resistor of that size to fail. You need to go back, to the PSU, measure all the voltages and work out from there. The increased current required to cause the resistor to fault, will most likely have damaged any Transistor, IC, whatever attached, or fed by this resistor. You will have to fix the Fault, that caused the problem, as simply replacing the "bad part" still leaves the "Cause" that "Caused" that part to go bad, & fail, in the first place.. Always start ALL troubleshooting regardless of symptom, at the PSU, as if those Voltages aren't correct, nothing else can be.
IF you wish to try to fix it yourself, and I do not recommend it. FIRST, you Must get a service manual, then you need, equipment, an Oscilloscope is a MUST HAVE.(Perhaps, this could be done without, as long as there is no alignment, or waveform observations needed) Also a Multimeter, and soldering iron, a DE-soldering station, an anti-static wrist strap, (Any TV is extremely static sensitive). Now FIRST you must make sure the Power supply is 100% as if this is NOT then nothing else can be. Also there are safety considerations, any unit that can cause a Fire or Explosion, or both, needs to be attended to with the utmost care. As if it isn't done correctly, a catastrophe is indeed possible, Faulty sets can cause a fire, and a fire in the middle of the night, I believe is not good. And any person that has attended that set, will be held to account. Now with that understanding, I guess proceed if you wish. Troubleshooting say if it is shutting down, after a certain amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. Now just replacing boards will most likely just end up with more faulty, boards, as related you MUST ensure that you have the cause of the event, before we change anything. I have seen so called, "Techs" replace every board, and virtually every component, and that STILL didn't fix it, because the "Fault, or Cause" lay elsewhere, and had not be repaired FIRST, you see that FIRST STEP, like everything in life, is, CRITICAL.
Now if you feel that it you do not want to do it. It is my professional advice is to get you set looked at by a Philips Authorised Service Centre, and ask for free "Quote", this way, you will be able to make an informed judgment, as to repair or replace. As these days seemingly insignificant SYMPTOMS, often cost as much to repair as it may cost to buy.
Posted on May 05, 2010
Hello vljenterp81, hi, try replacing low value capacitors with high voltage ratings, where the cathode is connected to ground, near the horizontal stage. if you have enough cash, try replacing the sync IC that produce the sync signal for both vertical and horizontal. keep me posted.
Posted on May 06, 2010
The blinking light signifies to a repair technician with capacitors or circuits are having an issue they can diagnose the problem via the amount of blinks in between pauses however it will require a technician and some specific tools and schematics to fix and it may be cheaper if its no longer under warranty to purchase a new one
Hope this helped
Posted on May 04, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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