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I have a phillips md#ms3652s467. it had convergence problems and horizontal line problems. i fixed that problem by replacing a 2 ohm resistor with 2-1ohm resistors in series in my horizontal section. i now have a problem with the tv showing white horizontal lines. the relay clicks the tv comes on and then it shows the lines and stays on for 10 seconds then cuts off. the relay clicks again and the tv comes back on but shuts off after 2 seconds. just before it cuts off it blinks a few times though.

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  • 3 more comments 
  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 05, 2010

    the standby liught is not blinking it is the screen . p[lease do not give me a weak answer to try to gain points. i need help!

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 05, 2010

    thank you silver dragon. i am a training electronics tech, so i must learn your information may prove to be useful so i am going to try it and write you back. have a good day.

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 12, 2010

    i now see that the sync ic has 55 volts on pin 9. i also see that the tv goes completely off and the standby light goes out also. it then comes back on by itself but the standby light does not come back on and then it cuts back on. it also will cut off and the standby light will remain on for a while.

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 19, 2010

    please reply asap

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 23, 2010

    as usual you always come through. even when it takes a while you still stick in there and help with detailed information. you show concern about the individual problem and not just the "take a number and sit" attitude. you are professional and a credit to this website. thank you very much for your help.

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5 Answers

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  • Master
  • 5,807 Answers

Hi

vljenterp81,
Are you referring to the 2 ohm resistor that is in series to the B+ of

the Flyback ?


If the lines is not slanting, then it is most probably a fault on

the Vertical Circuits, Start by replacing the 100uF capacitor

or 47 uF on some that is very near the Vert Out.IC, resolder

also the pins.


But if it is slanting then probably it is a misadjusted G2 voltage

or Screen Voltage. Have it lowered.


Check the B+ voltage it should not be more than +135V


If the B+ is about 77V before it turns off then most probably it is

partially shorted.


Have a check also on the capacitor on the B+ line going to

the Horizontal circuits.




Posted on May 12, 2010

  • 21 more comments 
  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 12, 2010

    it is 120v. good to hear from ya palaboy.

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 12, 2010

    it is 120v on the b+ and the resistor i do believeit is in series.

  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 13, 2010

    Would you be kind enough to give more and accurate details on your "sync ic has 55 volts on pin 9"?

    Please include the part number or the actual label on the component , so I can cross-check

    on the service manuals.

    What output voltages on the power supply have you got on:

    a ) when the unit is on standby?

    b ) when you try to turn it on ?

    c ) when it is turning off ( flashing )?


    Indicate also the number of flashes you are having

    These would narrow down our troubleshooting.


    i would not be able to have a better solution , if you only give an anonymous data.




  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 13, 2010

    here are additional service tips for you:








    hope these helps,

    regards,

    palaboy


  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 13, 2010

    More additional tips:




    Take note of the value of Resistor














  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 13, 2010

    and here is your Vertical Def Circuits:






  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 13, 2010

    Might also take a look at these:





  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 13, 2010

    and another :



    Pin 9 should be 7V9


  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 13, 2010

    here is more:




  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 13, 2010

    +8V starts here:





  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 13, 2010

    Might as well check the diode 6482, 6488 and the resistors

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 13, 2010

    thanks palaboy i will be back asap

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 15, 2010

    sensei i turned my g2 all the way to the left and it came on without all the ringing inside of the tube and it stopped shutting down so sudden and coming back on so violent like. it also does not go off with the three color guns in the middle of the set in a circular fashion.it now comes on like a normal set but it still has the slanted lines and still does not show picture. it goes off after about 15seconds. the number to the chip is tda9588r/n1/31133. power supply voltage when it is on is 154v and it is 164 v when it is off. the standby light does not flash but stays on continuously until it cuts off. 7480 has 4.8v on the emitter when measured with the multimeter. now it reads about 60v-peak when measured with an oscope. why is that?

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 17, 2010

    where are ya sensei?

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 17, 2010

    there are no components on 3487(supposed to be 4.7 ohm). there has never been, even though it says that it is on the schematics. i measured the voltages across the spot anyway and recieved a 124v from main power supply(supposed to be 140v) there is 7.7v on pin 9 of 7200. 4.6v on 7480 in standby mode and 1.3v in on mode. measuring from collector to emitter.

  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 19, 2010

    on the last image ( 7480 )

    you should have an output voltage of about +8V ( emitter )


    If it is lower, check the base voltage with respect to ground.

    It should be +8V plus 0.7V , so about +8V7,


    plus voltage coming from the diode 6486 via 3446 ( resistor )





  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 19, 2010

    have a check on the zener diode as well ( connected on the base of the transistor )

    better yet, have them both replaced ,

    Post also voltage on the input ( collector ) 7480



  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 19, 2010

    voltage @ diode 6486 = about 13V

    it is high enough to produce 8.7V on the base, unless

    Zener diode 6482 is bad




    output could be +8V ( 7480 ) , if input ( collector is

    more than +8.7V plus 0.7V so about a minimum of 9.4 V


    on diode 6488 ( collector of 7480 )

  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 19, 2010

    there are three possible causes to drop voltage from

    diode 6486

    a ) bad diode

    b ) bad vertical out IC


    c )it also connects to diode 6467 see the diagram above

  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 19, 2010

    you also have a high B+, Philips can work to as low as 95V , read my tip

    Flyback

  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 19, 2010

    your objectives are :

    a) produce +8V on emitter of 7480

    b ) produce +13V on 6486


    Voltages are with respect to ground ( not the ground

    from the primary side of the Main power supply, but

    the ground on the secondary side ).

  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 22, 2010

    post back, what you found.

    You may need to "Divide and Conquer ".

    Meaning you may assort to disconnect some of the load to produce the necessary voltages,

    to attain the output voltage desired.

    Of course the unit will not turn on , But in protection Mode, but you can measure the output

    voltages on the low voltage supply ( secondary side of the SMPS ).

    Just for locating the cause ( low output ).


    You may need also a Variac , just to trim down a little bit your B+ supply to Hor Def Circuits.

    Try lowering it to 95V.( just for troubleshooting purposes also ).


  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 22, 2010

    post back, what you found.

    You may need to "Divide and Conquer ".

    Meaning you may assort to disconnect some of the load to produce the necessary voltages,

    to attain the output voltage desired.

    Of course the unit will not turn on , But in protection Mode, but you can measure the output

    voltages on the low voltage supply ( secondary side of the SMPS ).

    Just for locating the cause ( low output ).


    You may need also a Variac , just to trim down a little bit your B+ supply to Hor Def Circuits.

    Try lowering it to 95V.( just for troubleshooting purposes also ).

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  • Master
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That sounds like a protector failure. Can you please verify the model number? Its probably the serial number that you have mentioned. If you can get me the size of the set and the unit type(DLP, CRT or LCD projector type) then I can help you with locating the serial number.

Sai.

Posted on May 19, 2010

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  • Master
  • 12,061 Answers

Http://www.scribd.com/doc/22235836/LG-Training-Manual-LCD-TV-42LG70
http://www.scribd.com/doc/3585482/Philips-Training-Manual-TVHD-Chasis-L05HD
OK please, download use these Service training manuals so you can troubleshoot your set. You FIRST need to find out WHY< that 2 OHM resistor needed replacement, there must be a fairly serious, problem, may in PSU, that can cause a resistor of that size to fail. You need to go back, to the PSU, measure all the voltages and work out from there. The increased current required to cause the resistor to fault, will most likely have damaged any Transistor, IC, whatever attached, or fed by this resistor. You will have to fix the Fault, that caused the problem, as simply replacing the "bad part" still leaves the "Cause" that "Caused" that part to go bad, & fail, in the first place.. Always start ALL troubleshooting regardless of symptom, at the PSU, as if those Voltages aren't correct, nothing else can be.
IF you wish to try to fix it yourself, and I do not recommend it. FIRST, you Must get a service manual, then you need, equipment, an Oscilloscope is a MUST HAVE.(Perhaps, this could be done without, as long as there is no alignment, or waveform observations needed) Also a Multimeter, and soldering iron, a DE-soldering station, an anti-static wrist strap, (Any TV is extremely static sensitive). Now FIRST you must make sure the Power supply is 100% as if this is NOT then nothing else can be. Also there are safety considerations, any unit that can cause a Fire or Explosion, or both, needs to be attended to with the utmost care. As if it isn't done correctly, a catastrophe is indeed possible, Faulty sets can cause a fire, and a fire in the middle of the night, I believe is not good. And any person that has attended that set, will be held to account. Now with that understanding, I guess proceed if you wish. Troubleshooting say if it is shutting down, after a certain amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. Now just replacing boards will most likely just end up with more faulty, boards, as related you MUST ensure that you have the cause of the event, before we change anything. I have seen so called, "Techs" replace every board, and virtually every component, and that STILL didn't fix it, because the "Fault, or Cause" lay elsewhere, and had not be repaired FIRST, you see that FIRST STEP, like everything in life, is, CRITICAL.
Now if you feel that it you do not want to do it. It is my professional advice is to get you set looked at by a Philips Authorised Service Centre, and ask for free "Quote", this way, you will be able to make an informed judgment, as to repair or replace. As these days seemingly insignificant SYMPTOMS, often cost as much to repair as it may cost to buy.

Posted on May 05, 2010

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  • Master
  • 979 Answers

Hello vljenterp81, hi, try replacing low value capacitors with high voltage ratings, where the cathode is connected to ground, near the horizontal stage. if you have enough cash, try replacing the sync IC that produce the sync signal for both vertical and horizontal. keep me posted.

Posted on May 06, 2010

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  • Master
  • 666 Answers

The blinking light signifies to a repair technician with capacitors or circuits are having an issue they can diagnose the problem via the amount of blinks in between pauses however it will require a technician and some specific tools and schematics to fix and it may be cheaper if its no longer under warranty to purchase a new one


Hope this helped
Robb

Posted on May 04, 2010

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