Question about GE 21.7 Cu. Ft. Top-Mount Refrigerator - Black-on-Black

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Fridge or freezer not cold enough.

G.E. model # - GTS22WCPCRBB. Freezer on top.
Fridge or freezer will not get cold enough. Freezer does freeze though. Some light condensation on roof of freezer at times. The only type of noise that I hear at any time is the small fan on the bottom blowing over the circular coils.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 50 Answers

SOURCE: GE refrigerator TBX25zpk coils Freezing

It's almost always the defrost heater. If you have volts to the defrost thermostat the defrost control is working. Set your meter to check ohms and remove the wiring from the heater. If anything changes when you touch the meter leads to the heater terminals then the heater is probably good, but my guess is nothing will change, which means you've got a bad heater.

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

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  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: GE GSS27RGMFWW Freezer Not Freezing..

Hello. I just now found your post here on fixya. Do you still need help with your frig?

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

peyton32034
  • 410 Answers

SOURCE: Model is GSS25WGMD WW No cooling in freezer or refrigerator

look for ice or forst build up on the rear wall of freezer compartment, sounds like you may have a defrost problem. this will affect temps in freezer and refrig. the most common def problems for GE are bad defrost heaters. these are model specific and fairly easy to replace your self. i got this part number form Sears.com WR51X10055 good luck peyton

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge

Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...

Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.

After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.

There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?

If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!

SG


Posted on Apr 05, 2009

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: my fridge seems to have stopped cooling;there is condensation on the inside and the temp is lukewarm....however, the freezer is working fine, very cold.

You have a problem with the defrost timer.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

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