I load the film, and everything goes like normal...but then once
everythings loaded the exposure number starts to flash and i cant take
and pictures... My batteries are brand new and i jusy cleaned the
entire camera... Also the only way the camera ever does make any sign
of working is when i press the rewind button! Can anyone help?
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Re: Camera wont accept any film?
1.The film leader should be placed correctly. 2. the ASA detecting pins in the film champers should be clean. 3. Check for any buttons being in pressed conditions. 4.See whether the frame counter resets when opening the door 5.Then try with a mechanic.
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If everything in the picture is blurry, you are moving the camera when you press the shutter button. If only the subject is blurry and the background is clear the problem is too slow shutter speed. If this is cause by movement of the camera you must learn to SQUEESE the button while being sure you don't move the camera. It just takes a little practice. If this problem caused by a shutter speed that is too slow, it is remedied by increasing the ISO "film" speed. Even though you have no film, the camera has a "speed" setting that relates to that. The higher ISO value increases the camera's sensitivity to light and thus allows for faster shutter speed. Normally the ISO choices are 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600. Try using 400. The ISO setting is in one of your camera menus. 400 is fast enough to solve your problem in all but very fast movement of either the camera or subject. Using ISO above 400 will cause your pictures to look grainy and not as sharp. Use the highest speed only when absolutely necessary. Slower ISO numbers produce the finest grain and thus the sharpest pictures. It a trade off between ISO and shutter speed because the exposure is a combination of the ISO and shutter speed and lens opening. Each one effects the exposure by half or double.
That's odd that the pictures would be coming out under exposed unless the previous owner has gone into the camera functions and switched the ISO from auto to manual. Another reason is that the exposure compensation has been activated and set for - exposure
Under "normal" use the camera will read the DX code on the film canisters and adjust the ISO automatically. However the previous owner may have shut this off in preference to setting the ISO manually. Even though you have ISO 400 in the camera the ISO on in the camera setting may be ISO 1600.
Checking for the Auto ISO and exposure compensation is fairly easy as you can see the film canister through the film window or you know you have loaded 400 speed film. on the LCD panel at the back of the camera is an ISO icon and exposure compensation.
Make sure the ISO for the camera is the same as what you have loaded and if the exposure compensation is to the right of 0 then the resulting picture will be dark. Move this back to the Zero.
I wasn't able to find an exact manual (if you don't have one) for your camera but have found a camera with similar. Here is a ling for that manual.
You can check the shutter without film in the camera. Remove the lens and open the film door. You will see the cloth curtains of the shutter in the center. Advance the film lever to **** the shutter and set the speed dial to a slower speed like 1/15. Hold the camera so it is aimed a a light source, (a window will do) and fire the shutter. You should see the light through the shutter for the time duration is is set to. (1/15). If you see the light source, repeat the process going up one speed setting until you reach 1/1000. If you see the shutter open and close as described, then try another roll. After you load the film and close the back door, make note of what the rewind knob is doing as you advance the film. It should spin counter-clockwise each time. That is a easy test to know that the film is traveling in the camera properly. Vary your exposures with the new roll at different speeds and f-stops. You should get exposures, but if not let us know.
Usually when you finish exposing a roll of film, you rewind it until you are sure it is all wound into the cassette. There is a change in the sound as the end of the roll leaves the camera. An exposed roll would have no film sticking out of the cassette. A new unexposed roll will have a bit of film sticking out of the cassette to pull across the ack to the take up roll.
Perfectly normal. The beauty of LCD displays is that, as long as nothing is actually changing, no power (or very minimal) is being consumed. Think of it this way: dump a pile of sugar on a table. Draw a number. It took energy to make the number, but it doesn't take any power to keep it there. Don't forget to clean up the sugar, it'll attracts ants.
The ISO is automatically set by the DX code on your film canister - if there is no code, the camera sets ISO 100. If you load canisters yourself with, say ISO 400 film, you can adjust the exposure using the exposure compensation button at the top right side of the LCD ( " +/- " ). Using ISO 400 film set the +/- to minus 2 ( -2 ) so that it will UNDEREXPOSE 2 stops since the film is 2 stops ( 4X ) more sensitive than ISO 100 film.
The most likely culprit is a several year old battery that is not accepting or holding a sufficient charge. Turning the camera on, and taking a non-flash photo may not tax the battery too much. However, when the flash is called for, the power demand may exceed the battery's ability to deliver enough juice. A new(er) battery is probably your best bet to resolve the problem.
This is normal for the 750z.. a friend of mine has the same problem. If you try to print straight from the camera, everything is too bright. My friend has to manually lower the brighness and raise the contrast on every picture.