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The starter motor will not turn over. where are the safety cutouts located?

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Not all mowers are the same, but most have the same safety switches. It will not start with the mower deck on. You have to have your foot on the brake or clutch, some of them have to be in neutral. some you have to be sitting in the seat. Is the gas on? Is there any gas in it? Is the battery good? The solenoid on the starter? Tap it with a hammer on the bolt if you can. Check it out, hope this helps.

Posted on May 04, 2010

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So it won't activate the starter motor either?
If so then sounds like a safety switch issue.

If starter goes and it just won't start, then sounds like your fuel got cut off - check the fuel cutout solenoid that some ride-ons have on the carb - follow its wire back to the ignition switch and look for shorts / breaks etc.

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If you swapped out the auto for a manual trans the car might have a neutral start safety switch preventing the starter from engaging. This would not be something you would have on a manual transmission. Instead the manual would have the Clutch Safety switch which will only allow the starter to engage if the clutch is pressed in. On an automatic it won't allow the engine to turn over unless it's in Park or Neutral. I would locate the plug for the neutral start safety switch for the old automatic transmission and bypass it.

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clutch safety switch bad. may be bad wire/fuse. shld be located on the clutch pedal normally kind of square to oblong box type switch abt inch and half long.you can unplug it, and place a jumper wire in the plug terminals and if it starts then you know its the switch (note: it works the same as a nuetral safety switch on an automatic)

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Locate the solenoid (the thing that clicks) and peel back the rubber boots from the terminals, put a large screwdriver or metal rod between the terminals. If you get sparks and the starter turns the solenoid is faulty. If you get sparks but no starter then check the wire down to the starter and make sure it hasn't been worn through and is shorting out. If that is ok do a final check bu jumping directly to starter ie positive to starter and negative to frame. If the starter still fails to turn it need replacing

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The starter has been tested as good, but the car wont start, any ideas?


load test battery
check for tight, clean connections at battery
check neutral safety or clutch safety switch
check starter relay
check ignition switch
check engine and chassis grounds,
below is from the autozone.com site. click on red X's to view files

Four types of starter motor are utilized depending upon the vehicle transaxle and assembly plant location. Manual transaxle equipped vehicles utilize a conventional starter motor which consists of a yoke, an armature assembly, an overrunning clutch assembly, a solenoid, a commutator end cover, a brush holder and a pinion drive lever. Automatic transaxle equipped vehicles utilize a reduction type starter motor which has, in addition to the components found on conventional starter motors, a reduction gear and shock absorber assembly.
In the basic circuit, the solenoid windings are energized when the ignition switch is turn to the START position and the clutch start/neutral safety switch is closed. The resulting plunger and shift lever movement causes the pinion to engage the engine flywheel ring gear. This movement also causes the starter solenoid contacts to close.
With the contacts closed, the starter solenoid provides a closed circuit between the battery positive terminal and the starter motor. Because the starter motor is permanently grounded to the engine block, the circuit is complete and cranking occurs as soon as the starter solenoid contacts are closed.
When the engine starts, the pinion is designed to overrun and protect the armature from excessive speed until the ignition switch is released from the START position. With the ignition switch released, a return spring in the solenoid assembly forces the starter solenoid contacts open, breaks the circuit between the battery and the starter motor, and disengages the pinion. To prevent prolonged overrun, the ignition switch should be immediately released upon engine start-up.
See Figures 1 and 2



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Fig. Fig. 1: Electrical system diagnosis - No cranking condition



0900c152800487db.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Electrical system diagnosis - Slow cranking condition

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Yes you can install an electric starter on your generator if the following conditions are present. Starter/fan cover has cutout for starter, the flywheel has ring gear and block has taped holes to mount starter. Examine the engine where the starter would normally be installed (look at a generator like yours with the same motor that has the starter installed ) and check that the mounting holes are there and threaded to receive the bolts. If threaded holes to mount are there and access thru starter cover to flywheel is there, check that the flywheel has a ring gear where starter motor engages. If all present starter can be installed however you will not have the charging coil which is normally under the flywheel to charge battery; but you can still use the generator to charge the battery. To locate parts, use model number of the engine not the generator. Good Luck

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The solenoid is part of the starter. If starter wont turn its the Neutral safety switch, solenoid, or ignition switch. Try to start in neutral, if it works its the switch, if it wont may still be the switch on the transmission.

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The starter relay may have a bad connection, this is where your battery connects, and a power wire runs to the starter, also these have a ignition wire which is approx 14-16 gauge wire. The relay could be cracked or the contacts inside are going bad. But the other is the neutral safety switch that you mention. I would check these first.

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The starter relay is energized by the ignition switch, through either the neutral safety switch, or the clutch safety switch.

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If the starter button does not result in the starter motor turning, you need to get the wiring diagram for your specific bike (maybe in the owner's manual?) and do some checking. Check out the starter circuit (wiring, connectors, safety switches/relays, etc.) to get familiar with where everything is located on the bike. Check that the battery is fully charged. Hook up a voltmeter to the negative post on the battery and the the positive probe to the starter motor terminal. Turn on the ignition and press the starter button. If the voltmeter indicates around 12-13 volts when the starter button is pressed, then the starter is in need of repair/replacement. If no voltage is indicated, you need to trace back through the circuits (starter solenoid, safety switches/relays, connections) until you do get 12-13 volts. The place where it stops is the trouble area.

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