Devilbiss Excell EXH 2425 - unit is 6 yrs old with about 12 to 16 hours of run time. Pump oil level is normal, never had to add. The few times used just prior to failure, the unit seemed to take much longer to initiate the pressure spray ( kind of like a self priming pump with loose seals on the suction side). I have always made certain that water was flowing through the unit and out the spray nozzle prior to starting the engine.
I have since carefully removed the brass end plate and have confirmed that all three pistons move in and out when I pull the recoil rope, so it seems apparent that all is well on the front end. All ''O'' rings appear to be in good condition. What's up with this thing. I know these things don't have the best reputation for long life but 16 hours ? really.
Can anyone offer some advice on what else I might look for?
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Re: engine runs fine but unit won't pump water.
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly
I am not sure which pump you have but there was one that was a real piece of **** and has since been discontinued due to a VERY SHORT service life.
This is going to sound odd... but tap with some conviction on the power head using a hammer and a "hard block" of wood with the unit static and then again with the engine at low speed. Your attemting to losen the check valve balls in the pressure head that sometimes get corrosion in the ball seat. Then test the output pressure. If your pump has a pressure output adjustment (black knob 3.5 inches long / high with a brass knurled lock nut under it) then losen the lock nut and back the adjustment off substantially and re-test pressure. Once you have output pressure return it to the previous position.
You have a 50 - 50 chance of getting your pressure back by doing the above steps.
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First check the oil level, this engine has a low oil shut down feature. Also the oil pressure sending unit (signal for the oil light) Is electrically Interlocked (signal, Fuel pump relay) for fuel pump run.
Normally, if you get a oil warning light signal (flashing) could be a few things related to it. Number one, you are low on oil. Check your oil level and make sure it is at full level. Number two, is possibly oil filter is dirty, ( time for service,oil change) or problem with oil pump or oil pump pressure. BUT I would first start with checking oil level and then maybe a oil change.
I would recommend pump oil for this particular application because it contains special components in the oil but you can substitute as I have done many times with hydraulic fluid.You need to change your pump oil every 50 hours.
Water Pump - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION During these procedures, identify all components removed from the
engine so that they may be reinstalled in their original positions. If
discarding the old components so that new components can be installed,
identifying the old items is not necessary.
1.3L and 1.6L Engines
Remove the timing belt cover, timing belt, tensioner, plate and
Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
Remove the one (1.6L MFI engines) or two (1.3L and 1.6L TFI
engines) small rubber seals from between the water pump and the oil
pump, and the water pump and the cylinder head.
If necessary for clearance, remove the oil level dipstick tube
retaining bolt from the engine block and the alternator adjusting brace.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the water pump mounting
Do NOT use a prybar between the water pump housing and the engine
block to separate the two components; this can cause scratches and/or
gouges, which can prevent proper sealing.
Pull the water pump off of the engine block. If the water pump is
difficult to remove from the engine block, use a soft-faced mallet to
tap the water pump housing until it loosens.
Do not disassemble the water pump; if the water pump is damaged or
defective, the entire unit is replaced.
Thoroughly clean the water pump gasket mating surfaces of old
gasket material and corrosion.
Along with a new gasket, install the water pump on the engine
block. Tighten the water pump mounting bolts to 88-115 inch lbs. (10-13
On 1.3L and TFI 1.6L engines, install two new rubber seals: one
between the water pump and oil pump, and the other between the water
pump and the cylinder head. The MFI 1.6L engines only use one rubber
seal, located between the water and oil pumps.
If removed, install the alternator adjusting brace and the oil
level dipstick retaining bolt.
Install the timing belt, tensioner, plate, spring and cover.
THAT IS TOO BAD THE WARRANTEE ONLY LASTS FOR 3 YRS WITH 100,000 MILES ON PARTS AND LABOR, YOU ARE OVER IN TIME BY 6 MONTHS.
Before you condemn the engine remove the oil pressure switch and screw in a hand held mechanical oil pressure gauge just to verify your pressure readings.
How old is the oil and what weight are you using in it?
Is the iol level full and how often do you change it...I recommend every 2500-3000 miles oil and filter.
What type of filter is being used is it a purolator or any name brand?
try raising the viscosity perhaps to a high detergent 10 w 40 weight and see if anything changesDid you use the old oil pump from the old engine? If so its possible its worn and should be replaced soon, also did you use the old pick up tube and screen, if so was it cleaned out real good.
No knocks etc. is almost an indication of a false oil pressure gauge reading, ior the oil pump is starting to develope wear in its gear/housing clearances, what was the oil pressure just prior to what you have noticed lately.
Can't search for a manual without model, type, serial, etc numbers...
A few things to take a look at:
1) Oil level / pressure sending unit. This is normally bypassed as long as the start switch is pressed. When engine starts, and switch is released, engine will die if sending unit is defective, or you are low on oil.
2) Exhaust temperature sensors. Older units were notorious for burning these up.
3) Cooling Water Temperature sensor. These cause trouble often, but mostly due to water pump impeller being eaten away by galvanic action and not able to pump water as effecively. End result is water temp higher than normal, which trips the switch, which kills the engine.
4) Alternator (generator) output not as it should. If output doesn't rise to proper level within a few seconds of engine start, the engine will be shut down.
These pumps are notorious for seasonal problems. Tip the unit to the point you can pour engine oil into the water inlet connection. What your attempting to do is free up the ball seats in the pump. They get corroded when they sit and lock in place. Adding the oil or a vast amount of WD 40 to the water inlet often does the trick for loosening up the seat balls and springs. After you add the oil (3 - 4 ounces) or WD 40 to the water inlet line just slowly pull the engine through with the ignition switch off. As the water inlet cavitates add more oil. Let it sit over night and then take a block of wood and a hammer and tap on the power head. Don't over do it and do it in such a manner your not going to shear off any bolts or break anything. But... be serious with the hammer and block of wood. Then connect inlet water hose, the pressure hose and test the unit. You may want to purge the oil lubricant into a bucket before you start the engine. Give it a try and see what happens.