The spin cycle begins with the tub fill of water. Is this normal? At the beginning of the spin cycle, water begins to be pumped out but the spin cycle goes straight to high speed and water starts to spray out of the top of the tub as the pump isn't draining the water fast enough. It is at this point the motor is overloaded and cuts out due to too much weight in the tub (water). All pulleys are functioning normally, water pump was recently replaced, no clogs were found in the drain hoses and the house drain is not backing up. The belt is worn though. Could it be slipping on the water pump pulley? Also, I had to replace a C-clip/snap ring recently that was holding the agitator pulley onto the shaft as the old clip broke and the pulley fell off. Could this have anything to do with it?
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With the lid open, try to turn tub by hand. If you can you may have a bad clutch. If you hear the washer agitating at the begining of the cycle without any water and filling at the end of the cycle, replace the ATC switch. Try spin cycle and open the lid, if you don't see the tub turning, but hear the motor, check motor coupler, or if it never spins after you close lid, check lid switch. These are the most common solutions to this complaint.
Check to hose to the water level control. It goes from the outside of the tub up to the control which is located in the same area as the timer. It's usually round with the end of that tube and at least 2 wires connected to it. Disconnect the hose and blow air through it. Reconnect and try again. Still no fill, try filling with that tube disconnected. Watch it the entire time as with the tube off the water should not stop. If it fills all the way with the tube off the water control unit has a problem.
Check door switch: If
the lid switch is bad it will not drain or spin. Try this test: With lid open
let it finish wash cycle. Press lid switch down with screwdriver. Washer should begin draining.
Release switch. Motor should stop. Press
switch a second time. Washer should
start spinning as it continues to drain. If motor doesn't come on while lid
switch is pressed, replace the switch.
The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
can you get it to start by moving the timer one more click past the beginning of the cycle? Sometimes that is all that is wrong. Other than that, it's more than likely the timer has fused some of the points together and you will need a new timer in that case
Check the float bulb in the bottom of the tub and the switch below the
tub. It may be stuck in the up position telling the computor that the
water has filled. The timer is not supposed to advance to another
process engagement until the water floats the bulb and changes the
bottom switch position.
suspect what ge call a mode shifter pull front panel off by sliding putty knife along edge at each side and pressing clips front comes right off look on motor for a flashing green light (washer must be in operation) there are 2 wires in a single plug on motor these run back to transmission area with a volt/ohm meyer unplug and ck between the wires for continuity should be roughly 90 ohms if bad will not show any continuity