Question about GE Profile Prodigy WPSE4270A

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I have a broken inner tub base hub, having difficulty removing it, any tips? GE Profile prodigy.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

vest6
  • 196 Answers

SOURCE: Spin and Agitate problem on GE Profile Prodigy WPSE4200A

This machine uses an electric water pump. I would check to motor. Remove the front panel and operate the machine to see if the motor is working. Check this by listening to the motor and watching the belt. If you hear the motor but the belt does'nt move then there may be a problem with the pulley or motor clutch assy.

As far as not draining or pumping water ? Check the wiring from the pump to the control panel. If these wires are alright then i suspect the pump.

Posted on Jan 12, 2008

SOURCE: GE Profile Prodigy filled with water & won't start

If you don't hear a click when you close the lid, replace the lid switch.

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

Fix it Matt
  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: ge profile prodigy make clunking before spin cycle

Is there a humming sound? Check you have the hot and cold water supply turned on. Check the water inlet hoses are not kinked.

Posted on May 03, 2009

  • 508 Answers

SOURCE: washer does not agitate. Will spin and drain.

bad dogs pull off center cap remove bolt carefully lift off dogs are two pieces that catch to agitate they are minimal cost and are easy to replace they wear out especially with heavy loads!!!Best of Luck to You!!

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile Prodigy Washer will not spin

HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.

If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission
. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)

Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. replace the control device(timer or control board) asap, if possible.

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

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1 Answer

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Repair or replace is always a judgement call. Most people will be better off replacing the machine. This is a rather big job, labor wise. On a difficulty scale of 1 -10, I'd give it an 8. The metal is the inner area between the inner drum and the transmission shaft, which has corroded and started to break apart. (located under the agitator) To repair, the agitator is removed, the washer front and top are removed to allow the washer's outer tub cover to be removed. This allows the inner tub to be removed. (caution: the big nut under the agitator drive spline is a left hand thread) Then, the drain hose, water level hose, suspension rods, and electrical to the motor are all removed to allow the entire drum to be removed from the washer to allow the inner tub to be removed. The actual metal part which needs to be replaced is then easy to replace by removing a few torx head screws from the underside of the inner tub.

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Ge profile prodigy make clunking before spin cycle


Is there a humming sound? Check you have the hot and cold water supply turned on. Check the water inlet hoses are not kinked.

May 03, 2009 | GE Profile Prodigy WPSE4200A

1 Answer

GE Profile Prodigy filled with water & won't start


If you don't hear a click when you close the lid, replace the lid switch.

Jan 29, 2008 | GE Profile Prodigy WPSE4200A

2 Answers

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Open machine's rear panel and look for a broken belt and does the motor spins. Let me know with your results and we will see how could we assist you.

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