Question about LG DLE2516 Electric Dryer

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Need the wire diagram for lg dryer dle2514w, how do the blue and yellow wires go on the heating element of the dryer.

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Need diagram for wires that hook up to heating element on fridgeidaire model LAQE 7011KWO Dryer


Hello. There are black and yellow wires that connect to the heating element. The black comes from the inlet thermal limiter fuse, the yellow comes from the main drive motor. There is always 120 volts at the element. When the dryer is initiated, the motor, using a centrifugal switch, connects another 120v supply across the other side of the element which totals 240 volts and causes the element to heat. This is done intentionally as a safety feature--the element can't heat if the motor isn't running.

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Friend gifted working dryer. the black cord did not match my outlet. Changed to grey dryer cord. Five wires coming from inside dryer yellow red two blue and one white. I have the red and yellow to...


Hello,
The blue wires defiantly go on the outside...their are so many dryers i can not remember all details of each one off hand reply with the model number and i will check the wiring diagram and see exactly which wire goes where but even without referring to a diagram i know the blue wires go on the outside

GENE

Sep 14, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Lg rd3500 147* not working what doooooooo


Well first of all, I checked the manual, and this is not in there.
I was drying my clothes and it stopped working. The lights in the ring that choose what kind of a load you want...well the first three are blinking. The second two are not. It will not let me choose a load or drying time, and if I press start, the thing inside goes around once and then stops. I looked in the filter basket and there's nothing in there and I wiped the sheet off.
Now the lights aren't blinking and I can choose an option, but it only goes for like a minute and then stops
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. LEG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm check instead.
1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

2-Canister for the heater element.

3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

please comment on these solution by saying how helpful.mean vote.

Dec 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

I replaced the heating elements(2) and switiches(2) on my Rudd electric hot water heater. Model PES 40-2. The switghes came with several wiring diagrams.(universal) Can I get a diagram specific to my...


Residential water heaters USUALLY follow same diagram unless water heater is wired for other purpose. Multiple diagrams on instructions show available options. Take photo of wiring before removing wires on any electrical device.
Upper element.
Black wire from top of heater connects to #1 top left screw.
Red wire from top connects to #3 top right screw.
Blue wire from upper element connects to #4 middle screw on right side
Red wire from lower element connects to #4 middle screw on right side
Yellow wire from upper element connects to #2 lower left screw
Black wire from lower thermostat connects to #4 lower right screw
Upper element: Yellow and Blue wires connect to either screw
Lower element: Red wire from top connects to either screw
Lower thermostat: Black wire from top connects to top screw
Short wire between lower thermostat and lower element

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-wiring-w-numbe.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

Sep 18, 2010 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer not heating during cycle, what do I do?


You'll need to check the thermostats and heating element. The dryer has like two or three thermostats: two that operate the heating element, and one that burns out like a fuse if it gets too hot. Pick up a electric multimeter. I got mine at wal-mart for $5. Put it on the resistance (greek letter omega or upside down horseshoe symbol). 1X or 10X or anything doesn't matter. When you touch the probes together the needle should jump, indicating that there's very low resistance there because the probes don't resist electricity flowing them. You can use this to test the components. Unplug the dryer for God's sake, and then try to take off the back panel. If you don't see a way you can probably "pop" the top of the dryer by prying it up with a putty knife in the seam between the sides and top of the dryer. Now remove the back, and find the heating element assembly, probably on the lower right. There will be two or three wires connected to the element assembly. Two 220v wires(probably red) will supply power to the element and one control wire(probably yellow) send feedback to the controller. Check the resistance of the heating element and each of the thermostats by putting the probes on the wires on each "side" of it and check the resistance. If something has a very high resistance on the high voltage wires, it's probably defunct and needs to be replaced. The yellow or control wire might have a resistor on it that your meter would read as bad, but you're only concerned with the high voltage supply wires. Note that the wiring diagram will probably be hidden somewhere inside the dryer when you open it up. If all the parts in the element assembly check out ok follow the wire connected from the element to the motor and check the resistance of the resistors and stuff on the diagram. Note that is a resistor have a value like 10k(10,000 ohms) you may have your meter set too low for the needle to actually read it. That's what the 1X, 10X multiplier settings are for if your meter has them. Other problems could be a loose wire, dirty moisture sensor inside the drum, defective controller, or defective switches.

Oct 23, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

4 Answers

Powers on wont heat lg dle2532w


better to unplug the unit for an hour.

Mar 23, 2009 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

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