Question about LG Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: curtailment active
A follow-up to my previous post. I talked with a technician from the Co that installed my unit, and the issue lies in the "Utility saver mode" for the 2 stage heat pumps, and having the high stage locked out. In the Advanced Setup menu (hold the "Advanced" button for 10 seconds to access this menu, look for the "Utility Saver" menu item. Select it and your system probably shows that "Utility Saver" is enabled, which only allows your heat pump to run on the low stage and not the high stage. If you change the the setting to be disabled, this will allow your system to run at the high stage and should solve your problem.
I have not changed the settings on my system yet to confirm this solution. That will have to wait until I get home this evening.
Posted on May 19, 2008
I can tell you exaclty whats wrong . and it sounds like multipart problems. you have an old RUUD heat pump and its reversing vavle is stuck. without that valve opening it will contantly try to run in refrigerant mode to make heat. and here its 26 degrees, het pumps are only made to be effiient in over 34 degrees and that why your electric heaters in the blower section in an in a closit of unit
continously running up you eectric bill big time. cuses for the reversing valve to stick are sitting along time when it was low on refrigernt. or ust plain shut depending on its age. that cicking is the relay trying to open or close the reversing valve swict to make pressure again. any local guy an fix that one. theyre are kits called hard start kits that they hook up to them that shoot an extra zap of jiuse in it to try to free it up if its not totally lockd up being though that you still hear the relays pulling in and out thats good you may have just caught it in time.
now here is a quick test and possible cure but only if you what your doing turn both units off take off the top cover of the old rudd and get a small hammer not a sledgehammer and rap and tap all around the reversing valve. it will be a cylindrical tube black usually have sets of copper or brass tubings going in the 2 sides of this so dont hit itthat hard it gets dents it and is ruined. look for oil spots which uually means the refrigerant leaked out , and its seized up for good. they try spinning around the big out door fan door fan some. you may have to rock it back and forth Till it braks lose but dont put super human efort int it,
than put it all bak together making sure you connected wires back up right. go in and have you wife eithe watch it or you do it and switch the breker on and off about 8 times to trying to get the cnnectors switches to stay in and if your brave take a well insulated screw driver and hold them in for 2-4 miuntes to force it to work. if that doesnt do it call your local repairman and tell him you need a hard startkit only much safer, the cost about 40$ but you labor will be high if he is sent alone so may you can help im out and lessen your bill if the valve cant be made to work again. you may want start looking for prices with that model and serial number and d shut that electric heater off some one to replace it . I hope I helped you out some no charge ( I dont have my Pay Pal acct. set up yet ) good luck tom.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
You have a faulty start capacitor. The capicitor helps start the motor ... since it is not doing its job, the motor draws LOTS more power from the line popping the breaker. Have your professional RV service center service your AC.
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Posted on Jul 05, 2010
Testimonial: "I am a technical Instructor for a major import, so I know my way around HVAC. so glad to have someone who can pin point the problem I found that the motor start fuse on top of the capacitor is melted. it still has some continuity, but looks like your diagnosis will fix it."
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