Question about Lowrance HDS-7 GPS Receiver

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Wiring installation When wiring HDS-7 unit I connect the red wire to positive side of a panel board or battery protected by a 3 amp fuse. I then connect the black wire to negative side of panel board or battery. I am not connecting any other devices at this time.Is this all that needs to be installed to operate unit.? I understand the trasducer needs to be instaalled and plugged into unit.Any other suggestions about installing this unit would be much appreiated.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: keeps blowing fuses

It has a short in the wiring which is "not user fixable". I think the wires are crossed. Take it back, they need to repair or replace it. I suggest you replace it. Take the GPS with you show you can show them the problem. If you bought this on line call Lowrance and find the nearest repair center. Repair it yourself and you loose the warentee.

Posted on Aug 21, 2007

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Installing the Lowrance HDS 5

You do not need the data cable connected unles you are hooking it up to other electronics, ie computer, second GPS sounder ect. You only need to conect the red to the positive on the battery and the black to the negative.

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: wont power up

Say to god

Posted on May 01, 2010

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1 Answer

Wheel Horse 111-B&S 11hp eng-where do i conect red & black wires from charging system


Hi,
Your Briggs & Stratton uses a dual circuit type alternator. One side of the unit produces up to 3 amps of DC electricity via a one way diode so that only the positive charged electrons pass through converting the AC from the alternator into DC after passing through the diode. This wire will have a slight lump just before the wire terminates at the plug. This is the wire that will be red and it needs to be connected either to the battery side of the solenoid or directly to the positive terminal of the battery. This keeps the battery charged an also provides enough power at full speed to run the electric clutch.
The other wire does not pass through a diode and therefore produces AC current for the lighting system only. This will be the black wire after the connector. The black wire connects directly to the headlight switch. The AC side produces 5 amps at full speed and therefore enough to power 60 watts of lighting at 12 volts. The typical 1156 bulb uses 28 watts x 2 = 56 watts and if the unit has taillights they are normally 3 watt bulbs. The headlights will be dim at low speed and reach full brightness at full speed.
In Summary, red wire to battery and black wire to light switch.

Hope this helps.

Apr 07, 2014 | Garden

1 Answer

How to install a wired fuse between battery and amp


Fuse rating is based on the guage of wire it's to protect.
Install the fuse holder close ...within a foot...to battery positive connection.
You may require a different battery cable clamp to accept your new amp wire (and the existing wiring).
Occasionally, it's possible to use an unused location in a vehicles power distribution panel (the fuse box close to the battery - under the hood). Sometimes appropriate for small to mid-draw amps, in certain vehicles, where some high draw options were not factory installed.

Mar 16, 2014 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

HDS Gens Touch shows positive red to negative & black to positive?


Lowrance may have goofed on the manual printing. RED is Positive, Black is negative. All these systems have reverse polarity protection. If you wire backwards, the screen will flash on and then automatically turn off.
I install these systems and I have always put the fuse hlder on the positive line at the battery. The fuse holders are always red wires and that may also lead to some confusion if they suggest attaching that to the black lead.
Hope this answers your question.

Jan 05, 2013 | Lowrance 000-10767-001 Hds-9M Gen2 Touch...

2 Answers

BDP Heat Pump Transformer Keeps Blowing


Should have a 5 amp fuse on red wire in between transformer and tstat. If not put one. This will protect transformer. Turn power off and take a good picture of tstat wiring. Remove all wires to the tstat. With the air handler wires join fan and red. (Likely green) let run. Then add compressor and reversing valve ( if reversing valve is energized in cooling ) which in most cases it is. Should then have cold air. Let run. If no problems you know it's outside of the machine. Tstat or wiring. Hook inside of machine all back up to tstat wires. Do the same thing with the tstat wire inside the thermostat. If no problems, must be bad tstat. Hook everything back up right. If fuse blows or transformer because you didn't put the fuse, then you know for sure it's the stat. Good Luck

Mar 15, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How do you connect the amp with the stereo


  • Choose where to put your new amp. If you are installing subwoofers it's usually best to put the amplifier in the trunk next to or attached to your subwoofer enclosure. If you are going to power your main car speakers with the amplifier then it may be better to put the amp under the passenger's seat.

  • 2

    Purchase the following wiring for the amp: A thick power cable (the thickness required depends on the total wattage of your amp, ask a sales rep or consult your amplifier's manual for the proper gauge) that will have to reach from your battery to the amp (the power cable should also have an inline fuse to protect the amplifier); 3 feet of ground cable of equal thickness as the power cable; an RCA signal cable to carry the left and right signals from your head unit to the amp; a "remote on" wire which can be any thin wire (20 to 24 gauge) that will also run from the head unit to the amp; speaker wire (if you are powering subwoofers you should only need about 3 feet of 12-gauge wire per sub, if you're going to power your main speakers you will need enough 16-gauge wire to reach each speaker from the amp, 12 feet per speaker is usually safe).

  • 3

    Gather the following tools: Screwdrivers, wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, a utility knife, sandpaper, masking tape with a pen for labeling, 2 crimp-on o-ring ends for the power and ground cables. If you're hooking the amp to your speakers, you'll also need 2 crimp-on female spade connectors for each speaker.

  • 4

    Find a manual with instructions on taking off the dash of your car (not the whole dash--just the head unit, in order to hook wires to the back), and also to get at your car's speakers if you are hooking the amp to them.
    The Installation

  • 1

    Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery. Never work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.

  • 2

    Attach the side with the fuse of the thick positive (+/red) power cable to the connector on the positive terminal of your battery; the o-ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery. Now put the fuse in the fuse holder.

  • 3

    Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the driver's side) and to your amplifier. If your amp is in the back it is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car. Be careful where you run the wire because the power cables should never be near the signal or speaker wires.

  • 4

    Find a metal bolt or screw on the metal of your car near the amp to connect the ground cable to. This should be as close to the amp as possible, never more than 3 feet. Unscrew it and clean the metal surface with sandpaper. Attach the ground to it with the o-ring and screw it back down firmly.

  • 5

    Remove your head unit and run the signal and remote on wires from behind the head unit to your amp. Connect the RCA connectors and the remote on wire to the back of your head unit.

  • 6

    (If you are installing subwoofers and not running your normal speakers off the amplifier skip to step 7.) Run the 16-gauge wire from each one of your speakers to the amplifier. On the amp side use the masking tape to label each wire so you know which speaker it is. On the speaker end-strip a 1/4 inch off the ends of the wires and crimp on the female spade connectors with your pliers. Connect the spade connectors to your speakers making sure to match the positive (+/red or white) with the positive terminal and the negative (-/black) with the negative one.

  • 7

    Connect everything to your amplifier. Only strip off as much as you need off the end of each wire to make a solid connection, you don't want any exposed wire hanging out. If you have subs, attach them to the amp with the 12-gauge speaker wire.

  • 8

    Secure your amp to something. If it is in the back you can screw it directly to your subwoofer enclosure. If it is under a seat you may just want to get some straps that hold it down.

  • 9

    Reconnect your car's negative cable to the battery. Test your system and make sure everything works, going around to see that every speaker is on before you put everything back together

  • Feb 17, 2011 | Car Audio & Video

    1 Answer

    Best Buy installed new stereo in my 1996 Z3 - Now my stereo stops playing when I put the drivers side window down. My car recently started blowing a fuse. Help...it's been almost 4 years since I had the...


    :o( you're going to have to pull the radio out to see what they did. They probably added a wire to an inappropriate circuit to power the new radio or amp. I will paste your factory wiring colors below. If you now have an extra wire, that is the likely culprit. Trace it to see where they hooked it in. If it isn't going to the the fuse box and using an extra slot, make it so by connecting it to the cold side of the fuse and put an approprite size fuse in. To determine the fuse size to use, you can compare the wire gage to other cold side wires and use a fuse the same size as you see being used for similar gage wires. Let me know if you have more questions.

    1996 BMW Z3 Car Stereo Installation Diagram
    Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/White
    Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Violet/White
    Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
    Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray/Red
    Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
    Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: White
    Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: White
    Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Passenger Kick Panel
    Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
    Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
    Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Red
    Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow/Brown
    Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Black
    Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Brown
    Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
    Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
    Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Black
    Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow/Brown
    Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Violet
    Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Brown

    Oct 26, 2010 | 1996 BMW Z3 Roadster

    1 Answer

    How do I wire the system


    You would require an amplifier wiring kit which will contain all the wires to get power and signal to your amplifier; six feet of 14-gauge speaker wire for the subwoofers. Your speakers should have come with their own speaker wires.

    The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire.


    The complete installation process is as follows

    #1

    Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery first and foremost. NEVER work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.

    #2

    Install your new speakers. Start by removing the paneling of the speaker enclosure. Unscrew and disconnect the old speaker.

    Ideally the speaker wire will be connected to the old speakers with a metal clip that can then slide right on to your new ones. If not, cut the wire off the old speakers, strip about half an inch of it, then cut the last 6 inches or so off the speaker wire that came with your speakers so you have the proper connectors with a little wire attached, strip a half inch of those wires and twist connect them to the existing speaker wire. Bend the twists so they are in-line with the wire and wrap each connection in electrical tape so no wire is showing to protect them.

    Attach the connectors to your new speaker. Make sure to connect the negative wire (-/black) to the negative terminal on the speaker and the positive wire (+/red or white) to the positive one. Screw the speaker in place. If you have component speakers, and therefore a crossover, make sure the crossover is secured in the speaker compartment so that it does not bounce around while you drive.

    Wait to put the speaker enclosures back together until you have installed the head unit.

    #3

    Follow the instructions you got for removing whatever part of the dash covers it and take out your existing head unit. Connect the car stereo wire harness to the connector that was attached to your old radio and attach the other end to your new one. Connect the antenna cable (the single wire with the big plug at the end) to your new head unit as well.

    If the speaker wires are separate from the harness connect them using the method of stripping, twisting, and taping described above. Do this one at a time or use masking tape to label the wire to avoid confusion. If you are having trouble figuring out which wires go to which speaker or which is positive and negative read the tip at the bottom of this section.

    Do not put your new head unit into the dash yet-you still need to connect the amplifier to it. Put the speaker enclosures back together now.

    #4

    Attach the thick positive (+/red) power cable for your amplifier to the connector on positive terminal of your battery. The kit you purchased should have come with an o-ring on one end of the wire (you may have to crimp it on yourself, if so do it on the end with the fuse), this ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery.

    #5

    Put the fuse in the fuse holder.

    #6

    Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the drivers side) and along to the back of the car where your amp is. It is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car, you never want the power cable to come near any speaker wires. At the same time run the remote on wire (a really thin wire from the amplifier wiring kit), through the dash where the head unit will sit, along with the power cable to the amp.

    #7

    On the other side of the car run the RCA signal cable through the dash from the head unit to the amp (it's a pair of wires together with connectors on each end).

    #8

    In the back of the car pick exactly where your amp and subwoofers are going to go. Part of choosing this is that the thick black ground cable (negative) needs to have a place to connect to the metal frame of your car. This should be as short as possible, you never want the ground cable to be longer than 3 feet.

    #9

    Find a good screw or bolt, take if off and sandpaper the metal surface that the o-ring will make contact with, then screw it down tightly.

    #10

    Attach the RCA signal cable and the remote on cable to your head unit and attach the power, ground, RCA signal, and remote on wires to your amp.

    #11

    If you have not already done so, place your subwoofer box in the trunk and attach your amplifier to it if that is what you are doing. If you are not going to screw your amp to the subwoofer box then it must be secured to something else.

    #12

    Attach the 14-gauge speaker wires to the left and right channels of the amplifier and to the speaker connectors of the subwoofer box.

    #13

    Mount your head unit into the dash. Double check all of the connections on the back of it to make sure they are secure. Then slide your head unit into its slot in the dash and screw it securely in place. Before you re-attach the dash, reconnect the ground (negative) cable to your car battery and turn the stereo on and move around the car listening to each speaker to make sure everything is working properly. Then put the dash back on. You are all done!


    Hope this helps

    Thanks

    Oct 08, 2010 | Jensen XA2250 Car Audio Amplifier

    1 Answer

    Rf top ac on rv keeps blownig the 3 amp fuse


    The 3 amp is 12 Volt protection for the control board. If that fuse is blowing instantly, then you have a short in the 12 Volt system somewhere. More than likely it is somewhere between the Thermostat and the control unit. Check to see if you have 12V at the thermostat. If so, then disconnect the red wire from the thermostat and the red wire at the control unit. At the control unit side, use an Ohmmeter to see if you have continuity with ground. If so, that wire is the culprit. If not, reconnect the red wire and continue to the next wire. Do this until you find the wire that is shorted to ground. Of course, the ground wire will not be checked.

    Hope this helps,

    Jeff

    Jun 29, 2009 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

    1 Answer

    I need no color code for 2006 ford taurus


    +12V DC Battery(Constant) Red/yellow - Control unit in left side of luggage compartment 17 20 amp Junction box in front center of engine compt.

    Switched Accessory Red/orange - In-line with the starter relay 27 5 amp Junction box in front center of engine compt.

    Ground Black/lt.green

    Remote Turn On(output) Brown/orange Pin 8 of CD changer. Also light green/black between rear control unit (C388B-2) and front panel (pin 4).

    Illumination See notes *

    Left Front + Orange/lt.green

    Left Front - Lt.blue/white

    Right Front + White/lt.green

    Right Front - Dk.green/orange

    Left Rear + Grey/lt.blue

    Left Rear - Tan/yellow

    Right Rear + Orange/red

    Right Rear - Brown/pink


    Notes
    Information listed in the harness section refers (in this case) to the rear control unit in left side of the luggage compartment.

    * Illumination is controlled from the integrated control panel, thru dark blue/white at pin 2.

    INTEGRATED CONTROL PANEL has white/red for battery input (pin 11), with fuse no. 33 of 15 amps in the junction box under left side of dash; black/pink for acc. power (pin 6), with fuse 22 of 15 amps in the junction box under left side of dash; red/yellow for hot in start or run (pins 5 & 16), with fuse no. 32 of 10 amps in the same location.

    AUDIO connections between the integrated control panel (front) and the rear control unit (rear) are as follows:

    R+ dark blue/white wire between pin 9 of front unit & pin C388B-7 of rear unit;

    R- gray wire between pin 19 of front unit & pin C388B-20 of rear unit;

    L+ brown/light green wire between pin 20 of front unit & pin C388B-6 of rear unit;

    L- white/pink wire between pin 10 of front unit & pin C388B-19 of rear unit.



    AUDIOPHILE SYSTEM has right and left tweeter speakers branching to right and left front speakers with the same colors.


    Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

    Apr 12, 2009 | Car Audio & Video

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