Just picked up this lens at a garage sale of all places...real cheap. Put it on my Nikon 300s and it worked fine. Took it home and naturally cleaned the front and rear elements. While cleaning the front element, I noticed that the next two internal elements appeared to have corruption of the lens coating in multiple places. I took a few test shots, and none appear to be compromised by the problem. I'm sure if I drilled down deeply, I could find some image diffusion as a result, but I'm just not that crazy about my image quality. I'm an amateur...not pro. This is my first non-Nikon lens, and It just bothers me to see some element issues in this lens. Should I try to have these recoated or something? And since I only paid $50 for the lens, is the repair going to be 4 or 5 times the cost of the lens? Thanks to all.
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Re: "Blossoms" on coating of some lens elements
If it bothers you that bad you can have it recoated. It will cost you around 125 -150 to have it done. You need to tear down the hole lens to have it done. You will need to take it to a camera shop to have it done also.
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I'm afraid this will not work.
The filter size from the Nikon is 67 mm. and your vivvitar had a 52 mm tread. The step down convertor from 67 to 52 will block to much to use the wide-angle convertor.
I think you still will see a wider part in the centre of the frame, but in the end, the vignetting that takes place, will leave you with only a part of the picture to use. What stays will be smaller than what you pick up with the lens in the 18 mm setting.
Just try what you see, when you just hold the vivitar in front of the lens and shoot a picture. Take care you don't scratch the front lens of your 18-135. put a cheap UV filter, when you want to test.
See you only have a circular picture with this test.
I have a 12-24 lens and only use it once a year, so if you don't have a special purpose for a wide angle, don't bother buying one.
Not sure what Coolpix you have, I assume one young one. Not knowing how you did set up the camera, I even have to guess more.
I start with a questions, and I hope when you try to answer this, you will take the camera in your hands. You even could look into the manual if you have it, or pick up the manual on Nikon USA.
Did you put your camera in any other mode then the automatic mode?
When the dial is on the green camera logo, you should be fine. If not, try to switch to automatic and take a picture.
Be aware if you put the camera on a tripod, you should switch off the image stabilisation, because the camera is fixed and nay correction, will cause blurr.
You also should look if the front of the lens is clean. Don't start rubbing the front element, only use the correct lens cleaning cloth or lens pen. Never use a paper towel or any fluid, that is not special made to clean a lens. The coating of every lens is essential for its sharpness and for correct colour. With a little alcohol you ruin every lens, because it could resolve the coating. Please, if you still have problems, tell me what model coolpix you use and does not what you want.
Holy Smokes, well if I were you right now I'd put it back together and send it to Sigma for repair cause you dismantle a lens like that there is no way you are going to align those lens elements without the proper equipment.
Using anything more then lens cleaner for camera optics will in fact remove the coating from the lens.
What you have isn't like the lenses from a "View" camera where it was possible to remove one lens group and replace with another but, those lenses were made and used 70 years ago.
Lens technology has changed a bit since then.
I had a manual focus Nikon F2.8 lens one time that had a coating separation on the front element that caused some wicked flare. I took eye glass cleaner and Windex to it to remove the rest of the coating so I could continue the shoot. I then sent the lens to Nikon for repair.
This is a common problem with Nikon and it isn't covered under warranty since Nikon sees it as an error resulting from usage. Apparently, the Coolpix is pretty delicate and any slight bump can cause a lens error.
Some people have tried gently twisting the camera lens back into place or gently tapping/bumping the side of camera.
If neither of those work, I'd say try getting the camera repaired professionally - if it isn't covered by Nikon, they'll charge you heavily. I've used Teleplan Camera Repair before and they're cheap compared to other places.
I've heard that once the camera is fixed, turn it to the Playback mode before turning it off - it apparently helps avoid the problem altogether.
I have a similar problem with my D90. Although I have not taken it to get repaired. What I have noticed is that when the lens is attached to the body and locked in place there is still a .5 - 1 mm movement. When my camera displays the "F" I just twist the lens near the base and it seems to go back to normal. My personal opinion is that it is a design defect. It is annoying to miss that special moment due to this problem. Anyone else have a similar fix?
If you are no longer covered by an in-store warranty, whether an extended service or recent sale (typically 30 days) type, going back to Best Buy probably will not help (but asking about it can't hurt).
Nikon Customer Support may be the best place to get the camera repaired, but you'll have to determine if the cost is worth it. If you decide to buy new, be aware that not all Nikon lenses work with all Nikon cameras. Otherwise, if you buy a new Nikon, you'll be able to reuse many of the accessories you currently own for the D60. This can save you a fair amount of money - but make sure your lenses and other accessories will work with the new Nikon model you're planning on buying *first*
Contact Nikon Service for more help with your D60 below:
Sigma will not repair this lens as the fungs may be in the lens on the barrels and if thay could clean
or replace optics the fungs may come back so thay cannot give a guarantee I know someone who
cleans lenses let me know if you want to contack him