I am unable to use the extensions on the plate that holds the vents in the window. With out the extensions I and about 3" short. Should I cut one of the extensions or is there smething else Ican buy to get is sealed in the window?
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Re: Fitting vents in the window
what I usually do in this case is to remove one side of the curtains. This is usually the fastest and I have not been able to find factory curtains that are any narrower than whats on the A/C out of the box. Good Luck and have a great day.
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disconnect battery, remove screws holding floor down, the part covering the gearbox, remove starter motor, unbolt driveshaft at gearbox end, remove tin cover bottom of bellhousing, undo rear mount bolts, remove all bell housing bolts, with front seats removed you can lift the gearbox out of the car, ensure anexact alignment of the clutch plate and pilot bearing in the flywheel when fitting new parts, you can use a small socket and extension bar to align them. reverse procedure to refit components. good luck.
The CP1215 color laser printer's paper tray defaults to the A4 paper size. However it has an extension at the front that allows for the selection of the JIS B5 paper specification which is longer than A4's 11 inches by the 2 inches you talk about. To release the paper extension, you hold and pull out the middle light blue tab (there are 3 Tabs) that is in the paper tray. The extension will slide out to length of about 2 inches that then juts out when you install the paper tray back into the printer as is in your case. To slide it back, you hold the right-most blue tab and push the extension in back to the A4 paper size. I hope this helps.
Inspect the fuel inlet hose closely. If you notice a wet spot around the hose where it joins the carburetor fitting, or the hose has become swollen, soft, brittle or hard, replace the fuel hose and the small fuel filter inside the carburetor fitting. Install a new worm clamp to tighten the new fuel hose to the fitting. Use a Phillips screwdriver.
Check for a fuel leak around the accelerator-pump cover assembly. Some carburetor models come equipped with a diaphragm-accelerator pump on the side of the unit. If the cover screws have come loose, fuel will leak through the diaphragm and external cover. Look for a square cover on the side of the carburetor and tighten the cover mounting screws at each corner with a Phillips screwdriver.
Look around the gasket located between the carburetor upper body and the main, or lower body. This gasket may have worn out or the carburetor upper body mounting screws may have become loose, allowing fuel to leak outside the carburetor.
Ensure the upper body mounting screws are tight, if you found a leak. If they are tight, remove the clip holding the throttle linkage to the carburetor with a pair of needle-nose pliers and reposition the linkage to the side. The linkage allows the driver to operate the throttle plates in the carburetor through a cable when depressing the accelerator pedal. Unfasten the screws holding the carburetor upper body from the main body with a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Remove the old gasket and install a new one.
Inspect around the bottom of the carburetor where it joins the intake manifold if no leaks were found around the gasket located between the carburetor upper body and the main, or lower body. If you find a wet spots or marks around the bottom of the carburetor, the base plate gasket is leaking. Remove the upper and main carburetor body using a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Install a new base gasket and replace the carburetor assembly.
On one of the side is a hold down its in either side if your battery youll need a extension , with a 13mm or 1/2, or its a 15mm nut with a hold down plate, just unscrew, and remove plate its about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide and out the battery comes
you will need an extension and a1/2"(13mm)socket to remove the bolt/nut holding the battery hold down plate.there should be nut along the long side of the battery on one side or the other of the battery,remove this and then remove the hold down plate then you can remove the battery.
NOTE: Remove the shift ball only if the shift ball, boot or lever (7E067) is being replaced. Removal
Raise vehicle on hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.
Prior to removing the control lever assembly (7E069), be sure the shifter is in the 2H position.
Loosen (do not remove) the nut retaining the shift handle (7E067) to the control lever assembly (7E069). Remove the shift handle (7E067) from the control lever assembly (7E069).
Remove the vent hose (7D494) from the notch in the detent plate.
Remove the control rod (7A315) from the control lever assembly (7E069).
CAUTION: When removing the control rod (7A315) off the control lever assembly (7E069), do so very gently so as not to damage the control lever assembly.
Loosen (do not remove) the large pivot bolt holding the control lever assembly (7E069) to the detent plate.
Swing the control lever assembly (7E069) out of the way and remove the two bolts (39129-S2) retaining the detent plate to the transmission extension housing. Remove the entire control lever assembly from the vehicle.
Prior to installing the control lever assembly, be sure the transfer case link (7B106) is in the 2H position (pointing upward).
Install the two bolts (39129-S2) to retain the control lever assembly (7E069) to the transmission extension housing and tighten to 92-125 Nm (68-92 ft-lb). Refer to the following illustration for bolt hole application.
Attach the control rod (7A315) to the control lever assembly (7E069).
Tighten the large pivot bolt to 92-125 Nm (68-92 ft-lb).
Attach the vent hose (7D494) into the notch in the detent plate so the white mark is flush to the outside surface of the plate.
Install the shift handle (7E067) into the control lever assembly (7E069). Tighten the retaining nut to 27-38 Nm (20-28 ft-lb).
Check transfer case for proper shifting and operation.
The hose is only an extension to elevate the vent. Trucks have these so they can be braver about crossing axle deep water.. The plastic piece on the end is somewhat of a chk valve so the hose isn't open to dirt and road spray.It should be cliped to the frame to stay elevated.