Question about Campagnolo Record 10 Rear Derailleur

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Campagnolo Record 10 sp. short cage rear drlr.+ 13-26 cassette

Campagnolo Record 10 speed rear derailleur, short cage and 13-26 cassete. New chain, new cassette.

Derailleur tensioner cog / cage jams against cassette between 26 and 23 (don't even think about pedalling backwards when you're in 23), "b" limit screw fully and properly adjusted, chain length/ tension perfect. Compact chainrings on the front.

Can I keep using this derailleur or do I need the medium cage and this problem will go away?

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You don't say if this happens in the BIG ring, small ring or both. If it's just the big ring I'd suspect there isn't enough chain length.

Cross chaining is unnecessary and bad for your drivetrain. I never go more than one cog past the center of my cassette opposite the chainring I use.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26

Posted on May 02, 2010

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What does the small screw next to the higher jockey wheel adjust ?


Why limit the question or answer to just one screw?

It's for body tension. Like the B-Screw on other derailleurs.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur

Jun 27, 2011 | Campagnolo Record Carbon 10 Speed

1 Answer

Can the pivot bolt/bush attached to the derailleur bracket be repaired or replaced easily, have a lot of movement (wear) causing chain jumping off front jockey wheel


these are possible to take apart not an easy task as they are assembled under tension and only higher end derailleur's like xtr actually make replacement's you might not be able to fix yours alot of shops wont even open them and as a matter of fact this pivot became a topic of discussion this summer at work and in the 35 years the owner has ran his shop hes never even seen one open so your problem may be hard to research as far as the play your body is beat and needs to be replaced unless you open it and devise a plan to fill in the gap made but keep in mind this is to be a freely moving area so i think your gonna be looking into a new unit hopefully this helps and if you need more detailed instructions as to how to actually open this cavity feel free to contact me ok:)

Nov 18, 2010 | Campagnolo Chorus 10 Speed Short Cage Rear...

1 Answer

I would like advice on adjusting the rear derailleurs on my Campag Record long cage set. I am very much an amateur, and am not sure which screw/nut to turn and by how much. Thank you.


ok...there are usually 2 screws,one above the other.The top screw normally adjusts the deraileur so that the deraileur does not touch the spokes.the bottom screw usually adjusts the derailer so that it does not go past the smallest sprocket.One way to adjust eg(incase you have clicking sounds as you pedal) is to put the deraileur into the smallest sprocket at the back end.Flip the bike upside down so it sits on the seat and handlebars.Now get right behind the deraileur and see if the deraileur is in line with the smallest sprocket.If it is not in line,then slowly pedal the bike and adjust the screw inwards until you hear no more clicking.If you cannot get into the smallest sprocket,then,turn the screw outwards while still turning the pedals.The deraileur will slowly move outwards until it jumps into the small sprocket and no clicking sound .Vice versa for the top screw.good luck.let me no how you get on

Nov 14, 2010 | Campagnolo Chorus 10 Speed Short Cage Rear...

1 Answer

Campag Chorus medium cage rear mech with 13 - 29 cassette


That's a 16-tooth spread in the rear. The cage can handle 36 teeth of chain length change including the front. That means your highest and lowest chainrings should be within 20 teeth of each other, but I avoid those issues by being careful to find a straighter chain line than anything near a cross-chain, typically not venturing more than one cog past the center opposite the chainring I use. That way I can actually use a shorter chain, too.

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

Read up on the B-screw adjustment

Jun 07, 2010 | Campagnolo Chorus 10 Speed Short Cage Rear...

1 Answer

I have shimano rd6500 rear derailleurs. when chain is on small chain-ring and smaller rear sprockets the derailleur cage is rubbing against the chain.How do i tension chain to hold cage away from chain,...


If you learn to shift correctly this won't happen..

Google bicycle shifting technique, for example:

http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/

You should NEVER run cross-chained (big-big or small-small). The drive train performs best when the chainline is as close to straight as possible. Excess sideways stress on the chain will wear it out prematurely and increase its normal efficiency.

To demonstrate this for yourself, put the bike in the same combination of gears you're having a problem with. Get behind the bike and look staright along the top of the chain. As you can see the line of the chain is a mild zig-zag where it is parallel to the bike at each gear but needs to angle across the drivetrain in between. On some bikes the chain might even come in contact with the next larger chainring when used this way.


If you can shift to the big-big combination without snapping the rear derailleur off, you're lucky. The big-big combo uses up all available chain length and the rear derailleur will be pulled toward the front of the bike, sometimes so far that it is in danger of being snapped off.

THERE IS NO UPSIDE TO CROSS-CHAINING.

As you can see, the rear derailleur is not long enough to **** up all the slack this gear combination creates. There are other combinations that would yield the equivalent gear ratio without either stressing the drivetrain or dropping the chain.

The basics of shifting are these:
1) The big ring and right side of the cassette in back are for speed.
2) The small ring and the left side of the cassette are for high torque, lower speed

Feb 24, 2010 | Shimano 105 Triple Braze On Front...

1 Answer

My shimno sora front derailler shifts perfectly to the small and large chain set cogs, but on the middle, the chain rubs along the cage.


Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Oct 30, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Problem with chain and gears


Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Oct 26, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Throwing chain too far on an upshift up and off


The "H" screw is the one that is letting your chain jump of f of the ring. If the screws are not labeled, the way to distinguish the two is to shift the front as high as it can go and hold it there manually. Screw either adjusting screw in. If you are screwing the correct one, it either will not move at all or move only very slightly.
First thing is first: flip your bike over onto the bars and saddle. The best method to adjust these settings is to shift into your small ring and let loose the shifter cable. Now shift your rear derailleur into the lowest gear and manually pedal the bike while adjusting the "L" screw on the front until the derailleur cage allows relatively free rotation of the chain. Now set the barrel adjuster on your down tube fully turned in (clockwise). Pull the cable taut and reattach at the derailleur. Shift into your middle ring (or high ring if you have a double-ring crank) and then shift the rear to the highest gear. Use the barrel adjuster to get the derailleur cage to just clear the chain while cranking. If you have already succesfully set your "H" screw to a point where the chain no longer jumps off, then you are all set here. If not, hold the front shifter in while cranking and set the stop so the chain cannot get off of the big ring, but far enough out so you can purposely over-shift by just a bit. Sometimes if you shift early, that little bit of over-shift is very helpful.

i hope this helped, but if you would like to see pictures of this happening, go to parktool.com/repair and check out their tips on derailleur adjustment.
matthew

Oct 22, 2009 | Campagnolo Record Front Derailleur

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