Question about Kenmore Elite 20972
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check your lid switch or acuator. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.
If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
A new lid switch (if needed) can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please let me know. Please post back with a complete model number (located on a nameplate around the wash tub opening) with your questions, so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. "110" is only the prefix to your model number is only the manufacturer code. ALL Kenmore washers manufactured by Whirlpool have the same "110" prefix. I would need the rest of the number in order to correctly identify your washer configuration. I hope this is helpful.
NOTE: You do not need to bail or empty the wash tub to complete this repair.
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
Slamming the lid will only make it worse, even though it can make it work at times.Sounds like you have a bad "lid switch". Most of these machine have a place in the top of the cabinet where to lid closes located on the right side, if yours has this then you should see a little plastic plunger mounted on the washer lid, make sure the plunger isn't bent or broken, if it looks ok the more than likely you lid switch is defective. Go to sears.com, click on parts direct, enter model number, click on cabinet parts or top parts and you will be able to find lid switch, part number and cost.
If your machine does not have the little cut out and plunger, then it is located under console to, you have to pull console off to get to it. Same applies, goto sears and look at you model and locate the type and location of switch.
If your machine does have the little cut out with the plunger, then you have to open the cabinet to get to it, to remove you will see two phillips head screws just inside the lid area, take those two screw out, remove wire from strain holders, then remove molex plug from cabinet, install is just reverse. Just for info, some of these types of lid switches the plastic housing glue comes apart, I've been know in a pinch to "tie strap" them back together and they continue to work.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
On the main sub-components page, there is a section to the right where you can see and download PDF files of the use and care guide for this washer.
It sounds as if your lid switch is jammed or broken.
Go to the section on the Sears site for the Top and Cabinet parts and you should see #9 Lid Switch.
See the section on the Control Panel and look at Item # 8. This is a clip that holds the control panel onto the cabinet.
If you un-plug the washer and slip a thin putty knife between the cabinet and control panel where the clip is, the clip should release allowing you to tilt the control panel back to gain access to the Lid Switch.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Getting to the Lid Switch on these machines is about a 5 minute job.
First, unplug the machine.
Looking at the Sears diagram for the console, you'll see that underneath the corners of the console are two clips. Using a thin putty knife, push on these clips from the front and the entire console should tilt backward.
Looking at the diagram for the cabinet, you'll see the lid switch.
Although most top load / direct drive Whirlpool / Kenmore washers only use the lid switch during the spin mode, yours may be a bit different.
See the following Whirlpool service manual for the top load direct drive washers.
Usually, the problem with these washers not agitating points to the Motor Coupler.
Since you already have the console tilted back, it's another 5 minutes to pull the cabinet off and check the coupler.
See the following.
If the coupler is worn or damaged, replacing it takes about 10 minutes .
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning. Hitting the cabinet may allow the coupler to grab and transmit power.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
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