Question about Kenmore Elite 20972

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My Kenmore Elite washing machine model#110.26962503 will fill up with water and not do anything else. If I slam the lid it will work fine I guess my safty switch is dirty or bad. How do I get to it?

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  • oldguy5 May 11, 2010

    This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine. First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir... and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts. Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin. Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle. Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch. This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/Sr...$FILE/L-55.pdf It also has a troubleshooting guide. To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in. Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.http://www.american-appliance.com/catalo... With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer. If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

FreeTech
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: Cycle stops...

replace the lid switch, or check the connections it might even be your pusing rod for activating the switch

Posted on Jun 17, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore elite top loader model 110. Washer

Check your lid switch or acuator. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

A new lid switch (if needed) can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please let me know. Please post back with a complete model number (located on a nameplate around the wash tub opening) with your questions, so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. "110" is only the prefix to your model number is only the manufacturer code. ALL Kenmore washers manufactured by Whirlpool have the same "110" prefix. I would need the rest of the number in order to correctly identify your washer configuration. I hope this is helpful.

NOTE: You do not need to bail or empty the wash tub to complete this repair.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

  • 103 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore washer 26 26962 MO 110 26962503 will start the cycle..

Slamming the lid will only make it worse, even though it can make it work at times.Sounds like you have a bad "lid switch". Most of these machine have a place in the top of the cabinet where to lid closes located on the right side, if yours has this then you should see a little plastic plunger mounted on the washer lid, make sure the plunger isn't bent or broken, if it looks ok the more than likely you lid switch is defective. Go to sears.com, click on parts direct, enter model number, click on cabinet parts or top parts and you will be able to find lid switch, part number and cost.

If your machine does not have the little cut out and plunger, then it is located under console to, you have to pull console off to get to it. Same applies, goto sears and look at you model and locate the type and location of switch.

If your machine does have the little cut out with the plunger, then you have to open the cabinet to get to it, to remove you will see two phillips head screws just inside the lid area, take those two screw out, remove wire from strain holders, then remove molex plug from cabinet, install is just reverse. Just for info, some of these types of lid switches the plastic housing glue comes apart, I've been know in a pinch to "tie strap" them back together and they continue to work.

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore 26 26962 MO 110 26962503 will not start

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.26962503

On the main sub-components page, there is a section to the right where you can see and download PDF files of the use and care guide for this washer.

It sounds as if your lid switch is jammed or broken.

Go to the section on the Sears site for the Top and Cabinet parts and you should see #9 Lid Switch.

See the section on the Control Panel and look at Item # 8. This is a clip that holds the control panel onto the cabinet.

If you un-plug the washer and slip a thin putty knife between the cabinet and control panel where the clip is, the clip should release allowing you to tilt the control panel back to gain access to the Lid Switch.


Posted on Oct 09, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite model # 110 26962500 that

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.26962500+

Getting to the Lid Switch on these machines is about a 5 minute job.

First, unplug the machine.

Looking at the Sears diagram for the console, you'll see that underneath the corners of the console are two clips. Using a thin putty knife, push on these clips from the front and the entire console should tilt backward.

Looking at the diagram for the cabinet, you'll see the lid switch.

Although most top load / direct drive Whirlpool / Kenmore washers only use the lid switch during the spin mode, yours may be a bit different.

See the following Whirlpool service manual for the top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Usually, the problem with these washers not agitating points to the Motor Coupler.

Since you already have the console tilted back, it's another 5 minutes to pull the cabinet off and check the coupler.

See the following.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler is worn or damaged, replacing it takes about 10 minutes .

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning. Hitting the cabinet may allow the coupler to grab and transmit power.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


Posted on Oct 26, 2009

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