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I have a fault with my halstead platinum boiler no Hw/CH

Hi,
I have got a fault on my halstead platinum boiler when i switch it on there is no red fault light and the boiler sounds like there is alot happening however no hot water or central heating.
however i have noticed that the fan runs some times for a short time then seems to slow down as if there is a slow loss in power.
I have removed the fan cleaned it up and it is very free to turn.
i have tested the Differental switch operation as i thought that if it was that the fan was not creating the vacume.
i am at the moment assuming that it is a fault on the pcb with a bad contact on the relays.
Can anyone help please?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 139 Answers

SOURCE: My vent free Desa natural log will run for a short

it is likely you have dirty O2sensor, it is incorporated into pilot assembly.turn unit off,use compressed air in a can and blow into spot where pilot flames comes from.this will fix it in most cases.in a small % of time entire pilot assembly needs to be taken apart and cleaned

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: no heating but still get hot water

Sounds like 3 port valve fault

Posted on Jan 17, 2010

  • 2461 Answers

SOURCE: Central Heating\which combi boiler?

HI right first i would look at a worcester greenstar combl
best you can get and you have full back up from worcester leave all rads with stats as they are i think you will have to remove one , the that would be the bath room also the greenstar comes with a clock bulit in these are on the worcester bosch web site i have been a gas fitter fot 30 years and this what i would go with a really good combi, you can also get awire less room thermostat for this hope this helps

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for your advice. I'll look into the Worcester, but I think it might be more than we can afford!! "

  • 2461 Answers

SOURCE: My new heating system is

okay could be a slight blockage in the pipe did he do a hot and cold flush on the system ? pump speed could be too high or low or they could be air lock in the system ,

Posted on Sep 04, 2010

  • 2461 Answers

SOURCE: my Worcester 24I combi boiler not working - I have

look on the worcester wed site you can down load amanual for this with a fault chart in it , look for a button red?? could be the res et poped out 2bar is too high should be 1.5bar hope this helps

Posted on Sep 26, 2010

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Combi boilers have many moving parts compared to conventional models so must be serviced annually to prevent breakdowns.

Your boiler most likely has one of four problems:-

1. When the receiver for the wireless thermostat was fitted, other wiring was loosened and has come adrift. It's a possibility, but in my experience unlikely as the wiring involved isn't anything to do with HW supply..

2. During receiver fitting the pcb suffered a static electricity surge. Possible, but unlikely as this sort of damage is usually immediately evident. However, boiler pcb's are notorious for sudden failures anyway and can happen anytime. Combi pcb's are more prone to fail as they usually have up to four solenoids fitted and these do eventually fail due to mechanical wear.

3. When you your combi is in CH mode it heats the primary water circuit and directs the flow through the CH heat exchanger. When you open a hot tap (US=faucet) you're opening a supply of cold water initially as there is no stored hot water like in a conventional system. As the water starts to flow through the combi's diverter valve there's a pressure drop which activates a rubber diaphragm with mechanical connections to other parts. The diaphragm is one part which is routinely replaced annually as it will eventually fatigue and fail with the symptoms which you describe. In addition, the mechanical parts connected to the diaphragm pass through various seals in order to activate at least one micro switch. If the seals fail then the moving parts eventually corrode and seize up. Regular servicing prevents this. Combi seizures are a very common complaint in hard water areas.

4. One of the micro switches activated by the diverter valve has failed. Possible, but not likely. The purpose of the switches is usually to fire up the boiler to provide HW when the CH is not currently running, but as you haven't said which Vaillant you have I can't be definitive on this.

One major problem with combi boilers is that multiple failures can and certainly do occur almost at once. Unmaintained units may appear to be correctly functioning but in reality a number of worn parts can be close to failing. When one part fails, the others can't cope with the stress and fail as well.

In most civilised countries including the UK it's a criminal offence to attempt most repairs yourself unless you're qualified to work on gas appliances, so you need to find a decent heating engineer to service your boiler (ask your new neighbours). In the UK you can expect to pay around £120-£150 annually for a routine boiler service. If the circuit board has failed then it can easily add over £100. If parts inside the diverter valve/manifold have seized then you can be looking at an additional £80-£150. Note that diaphragm failures on their own do not merit diverter/manifold replacement and that if you have a new diverter fitted then a new diaphragm will already be present inside.

Dishonest heating engineers always diagnose a failed pcb as they know that you have no way of knowing whether it's true. If you can live with the problem for a few days then failed pcb's are usually a straightforward repair and there are plenty of companies who will send you a guaranteed exchange unit for much less than the cost of a new one. As long as you are not opening the main boiler casing which houses the combustion chamber and gas valve assemblies then some territories allow non gas qualified replacement, but others insist that the work is done by a qualified electrician: this is not the case in the UK as long as the pcb is not connected directly to mains electricity (no modern domestic ones are).

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Hi I am thinking what your tryig to say is the air pressure switch?
you can check this switch to see if the boiler works by removing one of the sensing tubes from it & by sucking on or blowing as this willactivate the switch you dont have to do it very hard, just gently as you will hear the switch clicking, if the boiler does fire when you click, in order for it to continue to ignite you may have to fold over the tube, when you release it the boiler should stop.if it does work then you will have to change the air pressure switch, but remember this can only be done by a Corgi Engineer

Kindly

Richie

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