This unit was working last night, cooling down an upstairs family room. I went upstairs to turn in on and the unit won't turn on at all. I checked the fuse at the plug in and it is fine......Unit is about 10 months old.........
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Re: whynter 13000 sno no power
Could be a lot of things - but I'm wondering if when you are checking the 'fuse at the plug-in,' are you actually checking the outlet for voltage?
I would check the outlet for voltage; i.e. plug in a hair dryer or something to the outlet and see if it (hair dryer) comes on. If it doesn't then I would check your breakers and see if you have a breaker tripped. In homes - you can usually go to your breaker panel (usually in the garage or a store room, i.e. pantry, hot water closet, sometimes in hallways behind doors) and find the breaker panel.
On a small unit like yours it would probably be a 15 or 20 amp single throw (like a light switch) breaker. If it's 'tripped' it can be in a position that resembles half on and half off, or it can look completely 'off.'
Remember - if it's a 'tripped breaker' - just re-setting the breaker might not solve the problem. There is usually a reason for a breaker tripping - although they do on occasion 'trip' for no reason.
In any event - if it's a tripped breaker - i would reset it and then if it happened again, either within a few minutes/or an hour - or within a day or two - then I would suspect something wrong with the unit and I would need more information, or you might need a qualified technician to trouble shoot the unit.
Note: if the breaker is tripped and when you reset it - it immediately 'pops back off.' Leave it off and call a tech - because you have a direct short and it will have to be trouble shooted.
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not knowing what you are replacing it with, it is hard to give a reasonable answer ( old sealed units against split system converter ac units )
However if you work along these lines, you will come to a logical decision
First off the old machines had the compressor operation tied to the thermostat setting so the compressor ran full blast until the room cooled to the set temperature. Then it stopped and remain stopped until the room heated up. At this point the compressor restarted and that is the point the the most power is consumed
again it runs full blast until the room again cools and switches off
So you can see that you have a varying room temperature and high energy consumption on start up
Now compare that to inverter units
The compressor is running all the time ( no high energy start ups every 10 minutes or so) but the compressor becomes less efficient as the room cools down
Still running at full rpms but the controls reduce the compressing action--less power to run the compressor--so there is a reduction in power used
The temperature variation is reduced because as the room warms a bit the compressor pumps a bit more gas and doesn't start at full load as per the old unit
Next , the latest units have better temperature / humidity recognition controls so they can be set at night so a room maintains an ambient temperature /humidity so that as the night gets cooler and the air drier you don't wake up freezing
It will even get to the point where you wonder if the unit is working
Lastly you can run the unit at a much higher setting ( 27 Degrees c instead of 24 or less and have the same comfort level as at 24-25 degrees c)
lastly warranty is for 2 years at best and parts will be available for the next 10 years against parts for your old unit
With a two story house you have to be aware that cold air flows downwards so any cold air coming from an ac unit will flow downstairs( normally down the stairway) so unless you can close off the down stairs then the up stairs unit will be cooling downstairs as well. Ac units have a thermostat located in the air intake and it cools until the cold air has risen to that point. In effect the space above the ac unit will be hotter than the floor. Knowing how they work ,you can see that the upstairs unit will never reach the set temperature because the cold air is continually heating from the house and will never get to the top thermostat.
So your solutions are
1-- fit controls that restrict the cold air from leaving the upper floor (Doors)
2--don't run the upper ac unit unless you are living up there (waste of money
)3 place an ac in each upper room and keep the room door closed
Check the supply air tempeture and the retun air temp.. to do this you put a termitor where the air come out and take the temp. then you check the air at the return where it goes back to the blower. you shoudl see a 15-20 degree diffrence. the oterh thing MIGHT be that cold air is heavier than warm air so it sinks down stairs. close off all the rooms upstairs might help .
turn the power off, take the cover off the top and try to spin it. If it spins hard then it was the motor. If it spins easy the the capacitor is probably bad which
would cause the fan to go bad.
Usually this can be a dual capacitor which also controls the compressor. Sometimes just replacing
the capcitor can do the trick, if not then the worst
is that you will have to replace the motor and still use the new capacitor
A good heating guy should be able to balance your dampers to increase the airflow upstairs. Keep in mind heat rises. 2nd floors are the hardest to cool. You may need to add more returns to pull the heat down the the evaporator so it can be cooled. If you are lucky you may be able to adjust your blower up to a higher speed. You may have to even add some more supply airs. Check with your local building inspector. He may be able to give you a list of contractors in your area that would be good for this type of problem. Good luck>>>
It sounds like a restriction in your ducting. Feel the A/C vents in the hot rooms to see if cold air is blowing out of them. If the ducts are restricted, then it is possible that the air conditioning coils are freezing up from lack of circulation. Inspect the ducts if you can to see if there is any restriction.
Note that even if you feel air coming out of the ducts, it could be ambient as opposed to cold. The best thing is to measure the air temperature coming out of the ducts. It should be around 20 degrees colder than the ambient air at the intake of the A/C.