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I have a old 87 ranger boat with factory wiring

I have a old 87 ranger 374v boat with factory wiring for the trolling motor. I have a motorguide f67 trolling motor . There are 4 wires in the rear compartment of the boat, both negative wires run straight to the front of the boat from each battery. The 2 positive wires go to 2 circuit breakers (replaced) in the rear, and then connect to the 2 hot wires going to the front. The motor works on 12v, but when I switch it to 24v on the foot pedal, it doesn't work. I replaced the switch 12/24 switch on the foot pedal, still doesn't work on 24 volt. What am I doing wrong, or is it just time for a new one.Thanks

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: wanting to install motorguide 24v trolling motor

I have installed a selectable 12/24 volt trolling motor on my boat. When in the 24 volt mode, the motor works well for about 3-4 minutes the loses all power. After about a 15-20 minute "cooling off period" the motor will work again for about 3-4 minutes. In the 12 volt mode, the motor works well all the time, only at about half the speed of the 24 volt mode. Why is my motor losing all power in the 24 volt mode?

Posted on Mar 30, 2010

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: wanting to install motorguide 24v trolling motor

It should but may not run at it's intended potential. It may also run your battery down a lot quicker.

Posted on May 18, 2010

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Replaced Motorguide Trolling motor switch ... same problem

Trolling motor runs on it's own when plugged in,speed adjuster won't control speed and 3 position switch doesn't perform either..please help. motorguide 74lb thrust.

Posted on Sep 16, 2011

SOURCE: Wire going to prop of Motorguide trolling motor shorted

Unless you are mechanically inclined, dont attempt this. Take the lower unit apart by removing the prop and removing the two bolts that hold the forward and aft housing to the center housing. Fwd being the cone shaped part. Pull the aft housing away from the motor so you can inspect the connections to the board that holds the brushes and the soldered wiring terminals. You should find the solder missing from at least one of the terminals that connects the wiring from the foot switch to the speed control windings inside the aft housing. Clean up the terminal and wiring and re-solder. Also re-flow the solder on the other terminals. Clean up the seals and the area where the seals meet the housing parts. Replace seals if damaged. Reassemble the lower unit and torque the bolts 45-50 in-lbs and no more otherwise you will fail the seals. This problem is due to a "cold" solder joint that creates a high resistance to elec current flow and heats enough to melt the solder. This is a result of poor quality control at the manufacturer. Good luck.

Posted on Dec 29, 2011

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