Top draw is leaking because the lid is not sealing.
The top draw is leaking. The lid is not sealing properly. I'm not sure whether the motors that pulls the lid down is working properly. I can hear the lid closing but I have a feeling that one motor on one side is not behaving as it should. I'm not sure how to determine if this is actual. There must be a simple way to diagnose the problem.
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Re: Top draw is leaking because the lid is not sealing.
Sorry to ask u this how, do u know that the top draw is leaking instead of the bottom drawer? did u pull the front panel off the top drawer to see?. the reasons these dishwashers leak are- the rubber on the lid is ripped or creased, the loom support is broken [only on older models] , the drain hose has a hole in it, or the lid is not pulling down properly.please reply and i can help you find and repair the leak. these units are sometimes very hard to track exact cause. good luck
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Sounds most likely a broken/defective lid switch. The lid switch on a top-load washer is a safety switch that detects whether the top-load washer lid is closed. The lid must be closed when the basket spins; some top-load models require that the washer lid be closed before the washer drive motor runs (thus no draining). If the lid switch isn't properly detecting whether the lid is closed replace the switch.
The source of the problem could be the power filter board at the base of the dishwasher under the bottom drawer. This supplies power to both the drawers as well as operates the actuator motors for the drawer lid seal. You could replace the power filter board and see if there is any difference. However, the actuator motors need to be very carefully aligned to get the dlid seals to sit properly and not cause leaks. This is a technicians job if you are not very comfortable with mechanical repairs. Make sure mains power cable is taken out when you are working on the dishwasher.
The lid seal on the top drawer is faulty and needs replacement. It might be cut or damaged and is obstructing the drawer from closing. THis also may have caused the flood switch to trip as water can leak if drawer is not sealed.
The power filter board at the base of the dishwasher (under the bottom drawer) has a fault which shuts power to top drawer. The drawer is tight because lid seal actualtor motors are not operting due to lack of power, Try not to push too hard as the lid seal will be damaged.
Needs a technician to fix it unless you are good at handling dishwasher repairs. This is a very difficult one to handle for the non professional. The power board is about $100 to buy,
On a 603 model, the lids get wound down when you close the draw. It's possibly a dead lid-seal motor. There a 2 worm-drive motors on either side, connecting to the lid via a yoke. F&P cocked up with the earlier 603 and used poor quality motor drives. These earlier inferior ones are beige in colour, whereas F&P recommend replacing with a superior black coloured drive. If yours are beige, it's quite likely that you might need to replace both or just one.
F1 = The flood switch has been activated for more than six seconds.
The flood switch is in the bottom of the whole unit, so it will have water in the tray of the carcass. It will dry out eventually (or you can pull out the unit and tip the unit to empty the water), then the unit will stop beeping. However, it will just do it again unless you address the cause, which is any of the following:
hose to inlet valve connection loose Inlet valve body leak Damage
to the fill or drain hoses Heater plate damage (chipped enamel) Seals/O
Rings (pinched, contaminated or poor join) Dispenser (seal, diverter
valve or weld leak) Lid area (lid motors not functioning correctly,
lid off yoke or foreign object interfering with lid seal).
It's most often the last one. A 603 drawer can leak - and cause an F1 - just
during normal use. Because the lid comes down after shutting the
draw, if the user has stacked a pan or utensil in the draw that almost
touches the top, it can prevent the lid from coming down and making the
seal. So it will leak just for that wash.
This scenario never
happened with the 601 models because they didn't have a lid that came
down to make a seal. (They solved one problem but caused another!)
a 603 model, the lids get wound down when you close the draw. It's
possibly a dead lid-seal motor. There are 2 worm-drive motors on either
side, connecting to the lid via a yoke. F&P cocked up with the
earlier 603 and used poor quality motor drives. These earlier inferior
ones are beige in colour, whereas F&P recommend replacing with a
superior black coloured drive. If yours are beige, it's quite likely
that you might need to replace both or just one.
ok where to start, first thing the bottom draw is hard to close because they use 2 little motors on either side to pull a lid with a seal on it down on top of each draw when u start it to keep the water in, if its hard to close the motors are damaged and arnt lifting the lid back up when the cycle finishes making it hard to open and shut, now the F1 fault means the filter circuit board in the base of the machine has been activated basically a flood sensor (and controls minor components ie lid actuators), the unit should beep and flash and go spaztic and you should hear the drain pump come on continuously til u turn it off at the wall thats its way of trying to stop a leak by removing any water it can but will not actually remove the water from the base where the switch is, you will probably find it will work now as the water will have dried and stopped triggering the switch but wont stay like that for long, that machine has major issues its leaking bad from somewhere and id say it leaked onto the lid motors and fried em, the parts you will most probably have to replace is the filter board in the base, both bottom draw lid actuators (small motors), probably the bottom draw lid if you damaged the seal pulling the draw in and out and whatever is leaking and if any other componets where damaged by water, so if its outta warranty id go buy a new 1 with 5 year extended warranty
To put machine into test mode:
Press and hold keylock, then press and hold start button. Hold both in until machine beeps (if you have display, it will show all symbols). Press power button- display should now show HO. Press start button until LD shows in display- this tests lid motors. Activate lid motors by pressing keylock button- if you open drawer about 3 inches, you should see lid come down. Pressing keylock again will raise lid. Raise and lower lid several times by pressing keylock button to ensure lid is working properly- if not, lid motors need replacing. Good luck!!
One drawer leaks can cause this problem. If you don't fix it. One day it will turn on the pumps from both units without any one touching them since the floor sensor at the bottom housing detects water and it will run for ever until you unplug the power cord.
This dishwasher is a state of art in design and replacing parts is very simple once a person has enough understanding of its mechanism. If the tech fail to find the problem then he is not qualified to touch this dishwasher.
When there is a leak, it is a problem with the lid seal from the top not closing down tightly so during the wash cycle, water shoot up and leaks through the top opening then collecting on the bottom housing of each unit. Let say the top draw is leak, so the bottom housing of top draw if full of water then it overflows to the bottom drawer unit then the floor.
Here is the idea of how it happens.
The top lid is pulled down by 2 actuators from both sides at first start. That is why you can hear the motor noise turning on at the beginning of the wash cycle. That is the noise from the actuators. If the actuators are bad. only one side works then the lid can not be sealed properly there is a leak. If bothe of actuators are week the gear worn out so they can not hold the lid down during the wash cycle then it can cause a leak.
You can pull each tube out and access from the left side at the bottom to touch the bottom housing to fell the wetness. Put in tower to dry them out. If there is a weteness from the bottom housing upper tube it doesn't mean the bottom drawers is leaking. It is wet just because the top is leaking. However you have to dry the bottom in order to continue use the bottom dryer. If you ignore my advice then your circuit board at the bottom housing of lower drawer will be damaged and it is not cheap.
With the information that I provided you can interview a tech claiming know about the this type of dishwasher before letting him coming into your house. Good luck.
Hi -Usually the only reasons a leaks occurs from top drawer are
1. The drain hose (black curly one located under cover accessed from below top draw in pulled out position) is not correctly located in its slot or the O ring neads replacing. Easy to do just make sure its unplugged first!
2. Or top Draw lid seal is knackered! - and needs replacing.
I suggest you try #1 first as this is a common problem.