Question about Amana NED7200TW Electric Dryer
With an electric dryer, you would have a heating element? and if so, would this go bad in just over a year? and how do you replace?
Is it turning and just not heating?? If so it could be the thermal limiter fuse , there are generally two in the back.
Posted on May 02, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Posted on Mar 06, 2008
Very simple. Remove screws at the base and the front panel. The heater is on the bottom easily accessed. The re-string kit is way cheaper than the "mailbox" Start here:
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
Prices vary by model number and parts resources. The element usually cost somewhere between $30 and $50. Here's a few websites you can use for reference to get an idea of how much a replacement element can cost:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed also have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.
NOTE: In many cases, if you are experiencing a no heat problem, the heating element is NOT the problem. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
If you have already diagnosed your problem, great. If you need to reassurance so you don't spend money you don't have to, the following links can give you some tips on how to troubleshoot a dryer:
If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER so I can accurately determine how your dryer is configured. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Mar 22, 2010
Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.
When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.
I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.
There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)
Wish ya the best.
Thanks for using FixYa.
If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.
Posted on Apr 10, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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